I just read some of the E-manage installation. Very interesting and in depth material indeed. Oh well, I thought I was on to something with the Airmass/flow sensor and figured it might be apart from the E-manage and canzoomer mod in existence, but they do play a critical part as I have read.

himitsu,

That's a cool little animation of the rotary. Did you make it?.

if those of us living in miami, florida would like to have our 8 run as cool as possible... would it be safe to run watter wetter or purple ice w/ nothing but distilled water? i'd like to know whether or not these products provide enough corrosion protection for our 8's. if not, what would be a good amount of antifreeze mix to add?

cheap DIY mods that help reliability and heat soak

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/rx8-reliability-mods-cheap-diy-102143/

thanks! but i have close to all of those mods... :)

i just really wanted to know about the corrosion issues of simply mixing water & one of the above additives... in miami every little degree counts for my rotary... if i was electrically inclined i would do the fan diy. i may just end up buyin mazsports unit.

i'm gonna drain out all my coolant. i'm just looking for the optimal cooling / corrosion protection ratio... ANYBODY???

thanks again!! :rock:

Wet Cell....
 

Straight water will corrode your block, the aluminum reacts with the steel plates. Anyone who has opened a shortblock will know how the steel gets really rusty and the aluminum grows that white corrosion mungus, even in normal use.

Anything less than 50/50 is not worth the risk, and Water Wetter won't stop it.

It would be difficult to design an engine with more electrical corrosion "potential", due to it's "alternating bi-metal plates" design.....

S

thanks bro!

Not right - the 8 has a 180F thermostat.

To get the same effect as cooler outside temps, let the engine run cooler all the time. I suggest the MazSport Cooling Mod. Even though my 8 is also relatively new, I added this mod and highly recommend it.

This mod controls fan activation to engage them much sooner, keeping the coolant and thus engine, cooler all the time. Stock, fan 1 turns on at 197F, fan 2 at 206F. With the mod installed, both fans turn on at about 193-195F and runs until temp gets down to 185F (slightly above thermostat temp). This keeps the engine running generally cooler all the time and will prevent power loss due to heat soaks and I think create the benefit you are seeking.

BTW - it also make your A/C much cooler, which I noticed right away when I installed it this past summer.

Mazsport Fan mod is highly recommended. Also if you get a 3rd party reflash of your ECU, like I did from Re-amemiya, you may have it turn your fans on sooner too.

I'm really interested in NPG and RedLine and Royal Purple additives. NPG would seem like a really good mod if it can really lower operating temps and there is no problems with switching to it from regular Anti-freeze. So does NPG really work??? Did anybody notice a performance difference or measure temps???

Anybody have any NGP, Redline, or Royal Purple cooling stories and experience? Would like to know if anybody thinks its a worthwhile mod/add in.

Silly question... where do I get the MazSport Cooling Mod and about how much should I be paying?

FYI - It's been in the 70's for the past few weeks and the car has been a blast to drive again. It's amazing how different it runs on non-humid 70 degree days vs humid 80-90 degree days.

Is this normal or should I be hounding the dealer for a fix, or are there more mods to deal with this situation? It's hot down here (s. florida) way too often to not make a big deal about it.

http://mazsport.net/store//page9.html

look at my sig.. it is by best bang for the buck... you might note my location...

tell um swoope sent ya...

beers :beer:

This may be a silly question - Is the Mazsport Fan mod compatible with cars built for areas using the metric system like we do here in South Africa? I'd like to get hold of it myself and just don't want my radiator fans to only switch on at 197 degrees celcius (386 Fahrenheit!)...

I'm 90% certain I know the answer will be yes - but just wanted to make sure... :confused:

yes

Ok cool - so theres one of my first mods for 2007 :)

Hey swoope (and any other Floridians),

Have you noticed a HUGE difference in power between 70 degree non-humid days and 85-90 degree "Florida humid" days? I swear I must lose 20 HP depending on the weather. I know temps and humidity should make some difference, but I doubt this much. Is this normal?

The fan mod should cure the heat problem, but I'm wondering how much of the problem is from the humidity(?) and if there's anything that can be done about that(?)

cold dense air is better than hot humid air.. it is noticeable.

i do my testing late at night..

beers :beer:

No one likes to work when hot. Your engine are no exception.

OK from the temp guru:
My recipe for running as cool as possible-
1- run a 65/35 mix(distilled water please)coolant during the warm season.
2- get a underdrive pulley--our water pump cavates a lot and a underdrive pulley helps with this(this will probably start a discussion)
3- use a 5/30 wgt synthetic oil in the summer days 80F or above(this will probably start another dicussion)
4- take the aftermarket protective screens off of your oil collers and a/c--believe it or not they do impead airflow(this will start another discussion)
5- on the street use your a/c/fan settings to activate the fans, or get the RB flash that gives you more power and activates the fans at a lower temp.The fan mod is a good thing but for a little more you can get the flash.
6- Get real gauges--no substitute.
7- if you are tracking then sort the car for the track and get the best final drive ratio you can by changing your wheel height. Shifting at 8.5K (unless you have a better than OEM flash) makes a differance in track temps.
Doing the above--I have never seen coolant temps over 215F nor oil temps over 240F. And that is the exception. Most of the time collant temps (on track 205-210 and oil temps 220-230) on the street --just a little lower on long trips coolant at 190-200, oil at 200-210, short trips(20miles or so) coolant 180-190--oil at 190-200.
Our thermostat does not fully open until approx 210F.
3 things i would like to see are moving the battery and airbox away from the fan flow--currently they are in the way of some of the air flow from the fans, a true 180F thermostat , barrel type(they do not open into the flow of water but open with the flow and have 3 small holes in them to allow some water flow even when they are fulley closed) and "HOLD ON" an electric water pump---dont laugh--they are oem on some cars now and a few years ago who would have believed we would have electric power steering.
olddragger

high performance radiator or intercooler would be best. i've even seen a guy that had a water sprayer that sprayed onto his intercooler to keep it cool. hes a drifter so the engine is always overreving but he never had performance problems.