does anyone here have their OEM oil cooler thermostats laying around? My oil barely gets to 140-160F during street driving and only even gets to around 200F during time attack at the track. i suspect the previous owner may have bypassed or disabled the thermostats, causing overcooling on the street. i'd like to swap some OEM oil cooler tstats back in as troubleshooting.

didnt you cut one your oil temp sensor to the thread to bypass it ??? and that helped even out the oil temps???

Think I kept the parts from mine, but honestly I’d just block one of them off instead, maybe a piece of cardboard painted black that you could pull in/out

One thing I’m looking for and can’t recall ever seeing is what the actual oil flow rate is to the coolers or through the engine (oil pump output)

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I see the same temps with about 150 once it's all warmed up and 160 to 170 max with light spirited driving and ambient temps in the 60s. That's with new thermostats since my old ones would barely allow the oil to break 140. I'm measuring at the pedestal, and guessing you are too?

I'm resuscitating this thread...

I've been working to maximize cooling on the track as my most recent DE saw high temps.
I believe I have the water cooling maximized without going too crazy...Griffin radiator, Davies Craig EWP, Flex-A-Lite fans, distilled water with MoCool, foam around the radiator, and an aluminum tray.

I was reading this thread and have come to understand that the biggest issue is not hitting operating temps in a street driven car, esp in colder climate.

My goal is to maximize cooling on the track, so is adding the oil cooler thermostats (from Rotary Performance which open at 165 F) the most reasonable next step to help keep the track temps down?

I don't DD this car, but I do drive it to/from the track. I live where the winters do get down to the 20-30's often, but I obviously won't be tracking in those temps or even driving it on the street.

I'd appreciate any constructive input, and YES I did use the search function already.
Thanks.

Are you sure you read it; how hard is it to block the airflow off in that rare situation? You’ll have bigger issues running too hot on the track vs not hot enough on the street. The priority is as obvious as the easy solution. At least to me.
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Ahh, there you are. I was hoping you’d chime in.

Well, I guess I’m wondering if I’ll see much of difference on the track with the thermostats, enough to go through the hassle of having to block off the coolers on the times I may actually drive in cooler weather.

I read a couple other threads from years ago, some which I believe you even commented, and it seemed like they were a waste of time.

Now, all these years later and with more experience from members on the forum I figured I’d see if there is more informed input available.

Thanks.

Well you could try taking one out and leave the other in so it’s only bypassing one below a certain temp. Never thought about it before, but it should work as proposed.

Or just install larger aftermarket coolers.

I bought the thermostats for now.
I may try the one cooler at a time option.

Will hopefully hit the track again soon.

Well just like opening the radiator t-stat earlier, that’s really an influence on low load situations.

So going back to your original premise, this isn’t really doing much of anything once the engine is getting slammed under high load. The deal with blocking the bypass though guarantees that everything is going to the cooler without bypass leakage. Frankly, you should be applying the same thing to the coolant system. IMO pretty much almost everyone tracking this engine is overlooking these things. They’re falling all over themselves fawning on about foaming off the radiator and other such nonsense instead.