OIL Cooler Hose Kit
 

Hay guys.. I was planning on upgrading my OIL COOLER lines. I was going to go with the Racing beat kit but I don't thing 400+ hot ones is a doable price for me... So I was wondering does anybody know the lengths of the lines I will Need..

I am going to do a line from the front tap of the engine to the oil cooler then from cooler to cooler then a tap to the back of the engine. Just need to know the approximate lengths I will need and also what size the tap fittings should be..

Thank You.

one more question.. I see the stock set up is set up in series. Does anybody have any idea if going with a parallel configuration work better for cooling?

So it would be routed: Line out then a T lines going to the input of each oil cooler then from the output of each oil cooler T back to a line going to the engine return..

Or does it just work better for cooling oil in the original routing config.?

DIY section is for sets of instructions on how to do something. I don't see any instructions here. Moving to Tech.

Roger that.. ^

This is what I was thinking about when I wanted to change the routing of the oil cooler lines.

Attachment 225955

Not going to help anything but the parts store ;)

massive bottleneck

I have always wanted to do this and had it slated in my mind to do, just ran out of time. Did you ever do anything with this?

Looks like if you went parallel like you are showing you would need to go with a smaller line than the stock 10AN to maintain the proper oil pressures. Maybe going 10AN off the housing to the neck then 8AN from the coolers could work to maintain pressure. I can see how Parallel could maybe give you increased cooling, but I wonder if flow would be an issue?

call me crazy, but what exactly are you guys doing that you need to reinvent the wheel with the oil cooler routing? If your oil temps are getting hot enough that it is becoming a problem ... something is wrong.

^this

The factory oil cooling system with dual coolers is more than sufficient and needs no help at all unless you are making substantially more HP than stock. Replacing the factory lines can be beneficial but I see no reason to do it unless your factory lines need replacement or you are tracking your car or making much more HP.

I agree that it isnt needed unless your making more power or the lines are having an issue. I have been wanting to for a long time because one of my lines has had a small leak for years.

When I first looked at what he posted I thought the same thing, huge bottleneck... but after looking at it it appears that it could be more efficient cooling. It depends on the flow as well, these things I really dont know a lot about.

Is oil being pulled from the rear housing and pushed from the front housing?

Second cooler is not useless because it just makes the oil from the first even cooler..... My thoughts anyway.?.?

Try it and see if a bottleneck occurs, could mean cooler engine oil which would help lots in hotter environments never hurts to try then if it don't work go bk to stock way :D. Your choice though i need to replace mine salt ate them :(

The second cooler is a must, there is reason why it is installed on the hi-power 6 ports. Changing the overall routing of the oil lines is just dumb and there is no reason to do that. I never see oil temps above 210F and that is with my turbo adding heat to the oil.

I understand what your getting at for sure, but if your replacing the lines already why not do something that could make everything even cooler. Not saying that I know it will work but it does look like it could potentially bring the temps down cooler than what the stock routing is... Please remember I am not the OP just someone that is needing to replace lines anyway and the routing looks like it could potentially be cooler than stock.

Why do you think it would potentially be better in this application? I am having a hard time understanding that logic when there are no oil cooling issues with the RX-8 as is. Do some reserach on the optimum operating temperature on engine oil, you will get what I am trying to say.

The stock layout appears that it is not giving equal cooling, but with the parallel it looks like your getting optimum cooling from both coolers both getting the initial heat then re-cooling then back to the engine. A bottle neck could be easily managed through the proper size lines and maintaining the proper pressure. Its just what I see, if your changing it all anyway why not do something that could be better with no additional work. Thats my logic...

In the stock setup all of the oil exiting the engine is cooled twice before going back to the engine. It doesn't get much better than that. His diagram is off a bit.

I will be tracking more... and i do like canyon carving when i can.. but that is it.. NA set up with basic upgrades no FI..

Your stock oil cooling system will be fine provided your ducting, etc. is in place. You can just replace the lines with -10AN line and fittings, remove the stock screw in thermostats, and get a real oil thermostat. But remember engine coolant temps do sort of go hand in hand with oil so make sure that is addressed as well. Also, get a good oil temp gauge installed if you have not already.

You could go with a larger single oil cooler and lines like I did (search single oil cooler) and you will get less lines, lower temps (depending on cooler efficiency) and more oil pressure as a result. But then you are committed to that so keep that in mind if you ever plan on selling. I went turbo and could no longer fit my single oil cooler so now I have a combination of a stock cooler and an aftermarket one that is working great. i still have my oil Fluidyne oil cooler, I need to put it on Ebay, :lol:

The OEM routing diagram was taken from the Racing Beat website... here is the picture they show... I added the red arrows..

Attachment 225745

Yeah, your return arrow in the first diagram just runs on the wrong side of the engine. Also remember, removing the stock return hard/soft line is a bitch with the engine in the car.

So -10AN Lines and fittings? And what good oil Thermostats should I be looking at? I will probably just go ahead and upgrade the lines and keep the oem config because they are old and the stock ones are crap. I just wanted to know if a parallel set up would be better on cooling. I also know coolant temps and Oil temps go hand in hand and I have done coolant upgrades and will do more.. water pump and t stat. I also have done the oil pressure regulator upgrade. Im just trying to cover all my bases here..

Any Idea on lengths for the lines?

I will be doing these soon, ordered a thermostat & fittings for the block from Earls. I have the length of the lines as well. Will do a DIY & post line lengths/fittings required in a couple weeks.

Looking foward to DIY im going to replace mine withe engine still in -_-
RX8 performance looks like a good kit for full set with braided steel and coolers in a bundle
still need to look into it more

I just recieved that kit from Scott, I will say two things about it so far.

The lead time was slightly longer than I wanted, 8 weeks, but the quality is top notch.

I will post a review of oil temps once I get my car back together, I went with this kit for two reasons.

My components are 10 years old and could use the upgrade, considering the RB lines are 400 ish for an extra 500 you get new coolers too. And the main reason is the external thermostat set at 175 compared to the stock coolers having an internal thermostat at I believe 195-200.

:suspect:sigh.... Lengths people?

And you could have put that kit together using top notch parts for half the price..... I have seen a few thing from Scott recently and pretty much all of them have been of poor quality, the rotor shaped reservoir, the oil cooler fan kit, and the oil pan.

What brand cooler does he use in the kits? I bet they are Chinese crap.

Look, you can get proper Parker SS JIC fittings (block and hose), Parker Push lock hose, and a good oil thermostat (earl's, Mocal, etc) for about $350.00 or less. Then you can get two decent Long brand or Behr brand oil coolers for another $200.00. Paying $800.00 plus for no name crap is silly. I just got a brand new Behr $350.00 oil cooler on Ebay for $73.00. My $650.00 Fluidyne oil cooler was purchased for about $150.00 or so.

There is no need for SS lines either, they are pain in the ass. There are plenty of options. Hoss-05 just purchased everything needed including tools from Fragola to make custom lines in -4, -6, and -10. and he paid less than that kit from Scott.

My Parker rubber Push Lock hose has been on my car for a couple of years now and it holding us perfectly.

yes thats what i was thinking sorry for hyjacking the thread though O.O opps
hope someone gets you the lengths soon
i gota look around sum more cause i see where the lines came from but im looking where they got the coolers from XD

SS lines are a must. Cool Factor. j/k.

le

Don't use push-lock hoses on oil system stuff...seen more than one case of oil spewing all over the track from push-lock fitting that failed :(

Parker push lock? I don't see how that is possible since it's designed for far higher pressures (300psi) and temps than we will ever see. When I did my engine swap I had to cut the lines off and it was a bitch. But I guess if it was really old it would have to fail eventually. There are also other "push lock" hose and fittings out there that are not a Parker product.

But, you could also do SS if you want, it would still be far cheaper and a hose shop could do it with crimped ends, etc. Houstonr8er went with nice crimped SS line. I am just not a fan of it or aluminum fittings.

I was really thinking of adding the oil thermostat... something like this..

Attachment 225708

I was thinking that it would get my oil temps to 180 faster then use the coolers in temps over 180.

any thoughts?

You could, but the stock thermostats would just be a restriction until the opened fully, it would be better to remove them. You still have the return going up the wrong side of the engine block and you would still have to remove the factory return line.

I know the return line is just under the oil filter i think..

The kit for my car will include...
Earls 10AN Prolite Hose
Earls 10AN AnoTuff Fittings (same as swivel seal but black)
Earls 18x1.5mm to 10AN Fittings for the block
Earls Thermostat
Earls Fittings for thermostat & coolers
Setrab coolers

That setup wont be cheap... Line retails for $90/10FT & fittings are about $15-25 each, and can surely be done for alot less. I just have accounts with those companies and all the parts sitting around from other projects. So it was a easy choice!

If the 18mm fittings come in I should be able to do the DIY saturday :)

Sorry for reviving a dead thread, but I’m not sorry. The original question was what length to cut the oil cooler hose when custom building the lines. Nobody actually answered the question. It would be very helpful to have that spec right this minute because I’m making my lines right now. If nobody beats me to it, I’ll have the measurements here soon.

Not really. I have several sets of OE lines and that could be easily measured.

You failed to recognize the real question; unless you have a very specific reason for doing so, why are you even wasting your resources pursuing this?