oil
 

I was getting and oil change today at the dealer ship. I got valvoline premium 5w20 but the guy at the front desk said 5w20 doesn’t cut it, I should have pot 5w30. He said it’s better for the car. So I was wandering if that’s true. And also I was ganna change my transmission oil but I can’t decide between royal purple Max-gear 75w90 or redline MT90. :uhh:

Redline, there have been lube failure issues with RP.

S

5w-30 is better, 5w-20 is thin

wow the guy at the dealership knows his stuff. lol

really?

did not have that problem..

45k miles. but i dont shift like a ham!!! :)

beers :beer:

did this guy have a pic of a hambuger on his T shirt by chance ?

redline MT90 for tranny, for rear diff u can use maxgear or RL 75w90 or Mobil1 75w90.

and at LEAST 5w-30 for motor

the dealership guy actually know his stuff ... or maybe he know he has too much 5w-30 in the back room and need to get rid of it ? ... who knows :)

ah nycgps - the very person I was talking about .....

lol thanks you guys, ill switch things up on my next oil change. You guys recommend any specific brand?

Castrol GTX. Unless you've got a T-shirt with a Big Mac on it, in which case you'll rotate between every known brand and weight of synthetic oil. :)

Ken

This is what is in my Mazda Manual....so not a problem...I had to show the Mazda-mech and thats all he needed. Some of us should be running 10X40wt or even 20X50wt in hot climates. What is your location? Does it get hot there?

"Engine oil viscosity, or thickness, has an
effect on fuel economy and cold-weather
operation (starting and oil flow).
Low-viscosity engine oils can provide
improved fuel economy and cold-weather
performance.
But high-temperature weather conditions
require higher-viscosity engine oils for
satisfactory lubrication"

5W-20 is thin. I use 5W-30 all year :)

Wow, that's a new one. Never heard of a Mazda employee going against the party line, especially with 5w20 engraved on the filler cap. :eyetwitch I've heard plenty of times where they will ignore the recommendation and use whatever is on hand, but never heard of them recommending against5w20. Maybe they didn't give him all his shots yet. :lol:

A lot of people believe in using one grade heavier oil than auto manufacturers specify, no matter what the car. When my wife bought her Camry, the head of the service department said that they always go one grade up.

Nice to know that so many people remember Tom McCahill's teachings. :)

Ken

I have a failing motor and losing compression. Before I've been using mineral 5W30 Mazda Oil. I've been having to change the oil every 3000Km to keep the engine running smoothly. I went to an outside mechanic and they recommend I give 5W50 or 5W60 Ultra Synthetic (didn't knowthere were oilds that thick) a try; since right now it seems that when I have new oil in the car it performs correctly and once I get the 3K or 4K KM mark the engine starts to stall after hard driving. So they think if I use a thicker oil like those use on cars with turbos maybe it might last longer between failures. Do you guys think this is correct?

Judging from the fact that your location is in Taiwan, you have the 4 speed AT, '04 or '05.

Wasn't there a post about 4 speed AT with one oil cooler which contribute to failer in hot climate such as CA, AZ, NV? Need to do a search on this, but that's what was speculated as reason that '06 6 Speed AT has two oil cooler.
Since higher oil temp. causes oil to break down quicker, and Taiwan weather is similar to west coast region. That's what I suspect anyway as the reason...

Yes, I have a '04 4spd AT. Wouldn't be able to add another oild cooler right? Or should I replace it with a better after market heavy duty one. Do you think that might help prolong the engine's life. It get very hot in Taiwan typical summer temp is around 100-105 F. So maybe if I get a heavier weight rating oil like 50 or 60 then I might be able to solve this problem and run this motor a little longer.

^Oh shit! you only have one? Get a second one asap or you will be needing a new engine real soon. Talk to your dealer, they had a Mazda tech add a second one to my AT for free.

I think it is possible to add a second oil cooler (I think RE-amemiya makes oil cooler for RX-8), but you might want to check AT performance mod forum on that...
IF it is possible, it will likely slow down the oil breakdown, assuming high temperature oil breakdown is the main factor.

Also, not going to start synthetic/dino oil debate, but something to keep in mind if the 5W-50 and 5W-60 are synthetic, you might want to think about how well they burn, since it is also being injected to lubricate apex seals.

I think some people uses 20W50, they might be able to give you a better idea regarding using XW-50 or XW-60.

Have you given premix some thought (synthetic 2 cycle with at least JASCO FC rating)? That should help lubricate the seals.

*shurgs*

If I were in Vegas I'd be running 5w-30 all year too, but we're already into Fall temps here and 5w-20 is just right. I do premix 4 oz of Idemitsu / tank tho'.

the point of using higher grade is to increase its film strength.

Our engine will operate at very high temp, 5w-20's film strength is simply too weak to prevent metal metal contact.

it doesnt matter if you premix or not (better if you do), but if the internals gonna rub against each other, no good.

Sounds like you may have some compression issues due to carbon buildup and insufficient oil metering. I would recommend a de-carbonization and running a little 2 stroke pre-mix with every fill up of gas (Petrol) as a first approach.

For the added oil cooling I am proud to offer this factory original Mazda R oil cooler kit for the best price any where: http://www.mazmart.com/PartsList.aspx?id=27&n=NEW&m=6. As a matter of fact, I'm the only place that sells this comprehensive kit.

Paul.

5w-20 "film strength" is plenty adequate.

Our rotaries actually run cooler (less thermal mass) than piston engines, which is why we get poorer gas mileage. 5w-20 slightly aids better gas mileage due to its relative thinness.

The point of pre-mix is to augment the existing oil-to-seal system.

Moving to 5w-30 in very hot climates is a good idea tho' to avoid viscosity breakdown.

This whole discussion is a bit academic if you change your oil every 3k miles, as I do.

^ rotaries run cool? since when? I use 5w30 but prob next summer will run 10w30 and 5w30 in the "winter"