No spark or when trying to start.
 

OK, here's a new twist. After replacing the oil lines from the oil cooler with new stock oil lines, the car will not start. I have no spark at the coils or plugs. So I put a new Battery in, 4 new coils Pulgs, plugwires, a new starter, and changed the oil too. The car turns over faster now, but still has no spark. It has always been a hard to start car.

The reason for changing the oil lines was because they were very rusted and leaking. When I realized the car would not start after replacing the lines, I was told to replace the wires, plugs, and coil. The starter needed to be replaced...it was the original. This is a 2004 Mazda RX8 with 54,000k miles.

Is there anything else that I could look at before taking it into the shop? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

:banghead:

No spark when trying to start.
 

OK, here's a new twist. After replacing the oil lines from the oil cooler with new stock oil lines, the car will not start. I have no spark at the coils or plugs. So I put a new Battery in, 4 new coils Pulgs, plugwires, a new starter, and changed the oil too. The car turns over faster now, but still has no spark. It has always been a hard to start car.

The reason for changing the oil lines was because they were very rusted and leaking. When I realized the car would not start after replacing the lines, I was told to replace the wires, plugs, and coil. The starter needed to be replaced...it was the original. This is a 2004 Mazda RX8 with 54,000k miles.

Is there anything else that I could look at before taking it into the shop? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

:banghead:

did it start before working on the oil lines?
If it did maybe you loosened or disconnected a ground wire? I dont have a shop manual or wiring diagram in front of me. double check engine bay for loose or unconnected connectors, etc.

check connector near crank/eccentric shaft position sensor, check connection and wiring all are right in the oil line area of the motor.

this would cause the motor to crank without spark or fuel.

kevin.

^ Good call.....most likely the ESS....

Fuses?

I'd suggest checking the fuse and all wires and connections.

But with all the money you put in already, I would have run to the shop by now

The car was running before I changed these parts.
Kevin, Im not sure where the crank/eccentirc shaft position sensor is.
There is a sensor right below the oil filter with one line green wire on it but is tight.
I checked for loose ground wires too.

ESS is on the drivers side of the front cover...looks like a silver cylinder lined up with the trigger wheel behind the ES pulley

Check the wiring...if the connector got hit...it could break easily

fuse check out fine. however. the dealer wanted $1000.00 to change out the oil lines.
$100.00 for oil change.
$800.00 for the tune up.
and $600.00 for the starter.
I did it all for less then $500.

dannobre,


Are you referring to the front cover as the hood of the engine? Is there a diagram or picture that I could visualize as a reference? This is my daughters car in the city and I live in the country any visual tool that I can take in town with me is very helpful. I am not sure what the trigger wheel behind the ES pulley is. You have been very helpful....this is my first time working with a rotary engine.

rayray04 Sent you a email.

-Paul

yea like he said. If you look head on to the crank pulley and picture it as a clock face it's at like 5, 4 o'clock.

kevin.

Should the tach bounce (move) when cranking or trying to start the engine. Mine does not move at all while cranking.

Look down below the idler pulley under the A/C compressor belt

It is down there.....

If the sensor isn't working...you will get no Tach signal

car has no rpm signal>? check what were telling you....

kevin.

OK, I now know what sensor you are talking about, It is like a magnet. When working with the tools they would get pulled over towards it an stick.

However, before installing all the covers we did spray it off with a mild cleaner and wiped it off really good. However, I did not notice any broken lines. I will double check this tomorrow.

Should the tach bounce (move) when cranking or trying to start the engine. Mine does not move at all while cranking.

thanks for all your help, I really do appreciate it.

Pretty sure the tach moves with normal cranking....that is a dead give away there is no ESS signal

yea I never checked with it disconnected but with it connected it will move, i know that. Never bothered to look with it unplugged before, ill be sure to check during the next decarb, seriously ill probably do one tomorrow.

kevin.

hall sensor or its harness on the trigger wheel is damaged or you just need to reset the e-shaft profile.

oh hahah there are were 2 threads. now merged:)

here

cant believe they left that sensor hanging out there, the front cover redesign need is obvious especially in that pic.

and yea the 2 threads had me confused too, i knew i posted then it wasnt there..

kevin.

I would like to thank everyone who chimed in with their knowledge. It was very helpful.
The problem was that the wireing got cut when I was tighting down the idle pully. The screw went into the wire and cut both sides. So, now I know when cranking the engine over the tack does bounce when starting the car. I drove the car 50 miles today. I still have some issues after a long drive the car did stahl, it started back up after several attempts to start and letting it sit for three minutes. If I go to work (5 miles) and turn the car off, or to the store, the car will start immediately. We have had this problem before with the car stahling before at stop signs or stop lights. The care idles at 1000 rpms. With the AC on the rpms drop to 750 rpms and pulls on the engine. Is this normal?

I was told that if I took my car to a Mazda dealer that they should update the flash or have it reflashed to the newest settings at no charge or cost to me. Is this true?

thank you!

Glad you got it running. :)

Just found this thread...

The tach will not jump under cranking. Anyone that has flooded badly will tell you the same, cause when that rpm gauge starts to flutter, you've got that thing almost started!!

With the reflash questions, I'm pretty sure that is correct they mazda should reflash you free of charge. I'm not certain though.

Your A/C question: Yeah... with the A/C on, it does put quite a load on the engine and will cause the rpms to drop.

The stalling could be a lot of different things. My car was stalling at idle all of the time due to my SSV in the lower intake being stuck closed which cut all air flow to the engine off at idle...
But you gotta figure its either not getting air, fuel, or spark.... work your way back. :)

Reset the ESS....it was cranking with no signal ( 20+brake pumps with key on....sweep)

That likely will help. Also remember that it takes a few drive cycles to settle down after the battery has been disconnected

Yea i'd clear NVRAM (20 brake pushes within 5 seconds of turning key to "ON" (not run) position).

Glad our diagnostics were effective, congrats on fixing the problem as you did that yourself.

As for the stalling at stoplights, quick question to rule out something i wont mention yet.

Start the car and allow it to warm up and turn all electrical or other loads off (so nothing is effecting the engine rpm)

Now free rev, in neutral while not moving, to about 4k quickly and immediately let off the throttle.

Watch the tach needle closely as it drops.

At roughly 1375rpm (directly between the 1500 and 1250rpm dashes on your tach) you should notice an abrupt change in speed of the tach needle (it'll literally slow to about half speed).

Let me know if you notice this change of speed at 1375rpm or at a different rpm or not at all.

also vyndictive: i still forgot to check but im pretty sure it moves when cranking as the OP eventually stated, because like you said, when the car is flooded and "about to start" the needle moves, about to start would mean its still cranking, unless i've simply misunderstood your post.

keep us informed.

kevin.

Thanks Big Guy
 

Thanks I will check the RPMS out.