NotAPreppie

MazdaSwag IS Scherer Mazda in Peoria. Pretty much every online parts website I've found using the "Revolution Parts" system is a dealer. For some reason, the online storefronts operate under a different name but they ARE Mazda dealers.

I was lucky to find a dealer with the Revolution Parts storefront within reasonable driving distance.

And yes, 6-port engine with that part number. Just google that part number and it will return a bunch of hits for different online retailers. Click on them to verify the price and see if you can find one close enough.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

A lawnmower fuel filter like this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/FUEL-FILT...&wl13=&veh=sem

NotAPreppie

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

what clip is that?

Kamal El

looks like the alternator. you can fix that easy. just a pos and neg connector. You have the marbles for it pinky!

NotAPreppie

Yah, it's the alternator connector. I was able to depin it and solder it back together.

Next problem:
Running rough.
STFT 25%+
AFR 20:1

I can't find a vacuum leak so I'm looking at the fuel injectors. Wheee...

Dave04

Did you reuse the injectors that was in your old motor? I had a similar issue with mine this past summer, STFT would hover around 18% and LTFT was 10%+. Smoke test turned up zilch, decided on a reman set of OEM injectors. Dropped both trims down to low single digits, problem solved.

If you reused your old ones, its possible that you have a couple connectors plugged into the wrong injectors.

Incase you don't have a wiring diagram...

Kamal El

I hope it's just the injectors. Is there any link or any list of materials I would need other than just a short block engine? I mean are there any gaskets that I should change and things like that when I change the engine?

NotAPreppie

Yup, pulled the UIM, injectors and fuel rails apart and triple-checked the wiring, gaskets and o-rings

Everything was fine with the wiring. What wasn't fine were the bottom cup gaskets for the red primaries. One was somehow folded in half and the other just completely missing. I distinctly remember putting them in so I have no idea WTF happened.

Fixed those and she fired right up, purred like a kitten...

...While puking a metric ****-ton of fuel all over the top of the engine and onto the floor of the garage.

Seems that when I put the yellow injector rail back together I mangled the top o-rings for the yellow primaries. Fix one problem, create new one. FML.

Fortunately, I had an extra set of injector gaskets and o-rings from when I sent the injectors off to WitchHunter Performance for cleaning and flow-testing. Popped those in and turned the key to "ON" to prime the fuel system. No more leaking.

I used my oil extractor to suck up the lake of fuel that had pooled in the valleys where the LIM meets the keg and letting it air-dry now.

My reman included the standard "engine overhaul gasket set" and a thermostat in the crate as well as oil pan, oil level sensor, flywheel, water pump, a full complement of exhaust/UIM/thermostat housing studs already installed.

https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/0...3-10-S50C.html

There are items in that set that you won't use if you get a reman. Notably, the front cover gasket, water pump gasket and (possibly) the OMP copper crush gasket. You may also be able to get away with re-using your exhaust manifold and LIM gaskets but why bother when you already have new ones?

The set includes the bottom "insulator, injection" for all six injectors but nothing for the top. The larger top o-rings (Mazda call them "grommets", part # 857413252) are easily re-usable but the smaller top o-rings are what I mangled (part # 857413253).

Have plenty of paper towels or shop towels and carb/intake cleaner because everything on the top of the engine is going to be filthy. Clean everything as you go (like injectors) to avoid getting them clogged up with scunge. In fact, this would be a good time to have your injectors cleaned and flow-tested. I'm partial to WitchHunter Performance. Their website and e-commerce process is a little dated but their service is good. https://witchhunter.com/injectorserv1.php

Since you'll have to separate the exhaust manifold from the cat pipe, you should get a new ring gasket for that. IMO, it's not very robust and should be considered single-use. Part # N3H140305

Aside from that, this is a very good time to do a lot of preventative testing and maintenance.

If you don't have a MityVac, get one.
http://a.co/1KQ3NIS
Use it to pull vacuum on each of the oil injectors and solenoids.

METERING OIL PUMP INSPECTION

SECONDARY SHUTTER VALVE (SSV) SOLENOID VALVE INSPECTION

If the oil injectors don't hold vacuum, you can try to clean them with a sonicator but I just replaced mine.

The solenoids are cheap ( ) so just replace any that don't hold vacuum or actuate correctly.

A lot of people report that the octopus vacuum block near the red primary injectors gets brittle and breaks. I've had my engine out 3 times and mine has been fine. But, just in case you break yours, it's part # N3H113158.

White duct tape and zip-loc bags are great for labeling things. Label the injector wires, vacuum hoses, coolant hoses, etc with the tape. Collect bolts from similar areas of the engine bay into bags and label the bags.

If you don't have a clutch alignment tool, it's in that rare area of life that is both critical and inexpensive.
RX-8 Clutches & Related Parts
Cart Price Check Part:49-0033-03
Their flywheel stop is pretty handy too, but not necessary unless you're trying to remove the flywheel for some insane reason (you shouldn't for a Mazda reman).

Kamal El

I"m glad you're up and running. Thanks for lining up all of that info! You're so cool man!

NotAPreppie

I should note that if you get your engine rebuilt rather than replacing with a reman, you should talk to your rebuilder about what gaskets and other parts will be included or re-used.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

You should link your thread with RR's discussion on expectations.

NotAPreppie

Good idea:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...2/#post4817352

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

The expectations part from Rotary Ressurection starts at post #79.

I forgot how much crap you had to deal with.

kevink0000

NotaPreppie,

I am curious, (and need to get my noob post count up!) what oil are you using in the fresh engine, and what lubrication mods are you using, for break in as well as after? You have a great grasp in my opinion of lubricant chemistry, so I want to know what path your informed view takes you down. Hopefully this doesn't start an oil war on this thread.

Thanks. KMK

NotAPreppie

Meh, I don't think the special break-in oil thing is that important.

I'm using the made in germany magic pixie dust Castrol Syntec 0w-40 since that's what I plan to run for the foreseeable future.

My plan is to run it for a thousand miles like this, change the oil and filter, and then stick to 2k-3k mile intervals after that.

Williard

iTrader: (18)

I would change the oil interval to 500 miles for the first 1k.

I have heard various things about using different oil for break in but i've never adhered to that either. I use the oil i will run normally.

Happen to have any compression numbers from this reman now that your installed? Yes i know it will change after break in.

Two thumbs up btw, good work.

Travis

NotAPreppie

Thanks.

I just put 40 miles on it today and meant to do a compression test when I got home but was too tired. Who'd have thought that helping my friend turn a clapped out 1993 Honda Del Sol into a Lemons racer would be so tiring?

I plan to do periodic compression tests starting tomorrow.

kevink0000

OK, thanks. And you are running stock metering pump rates?
I've heard great things about German Castrol. I am involved in the vintage BMW community and a lot of those guys love it. Many BMW engines have very highly stressed valvetrains and GC has proven to work well in that environment. Thank you in advance also for posting some rich data on compression. I hope you graph it like you did with your previous OJ rebuilt unit.

KMK

Williard

iTrader: (18)

LOL, A Del Slow huh, nifty cars still.

The periodic compression testing is also something i want to do.

I want to see the progression of compression over, roughly 5k miles total.

I will be not so patiently waiting.

Travis

NotAPreppie

Thought I had tied up the neutral/reverse switch wiring well enough to keep them from melting to the exhaust and shorting out.

I thought wrong and the car died on the drive home from Lemons car work yesterday. When this happens, it causes the IGN KEY fuse to blow and you recognize it by the fact that **** all happens when you turn the key to "ACC" or "ON" (no dash lights, etc).

Did the dumbest, least safe thing of my life: got under the car with it supported only by the scissor jack on the side of the road to fix it. Never again.

When I got home, I pulled the wire bundle over the top of the transmission to the driver side and zip tied it to a few unused holes there.

Was too tired after that to do the compression test last night. Will do it when I get home from work today.

In other news, I have the most hilariously obnoxious exhaust leak where the manifold meets the midpipe. I had one of those carbon/foil gaskets laying around and used it when I put the engine back in. Doesn't work for ****.

In other other news, my Arduino gauge works amazingly well. It's a little bright at night and there's no dimmer option (on or off) but it displays oil temp, oil pressure and fuel pressure. I may wire in a simple rocker switch to turn the light on/off. Location is still not a done deal. I have it near the ashtray and will probably leave it there just out of laziness.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

That sucks, but I appreciate your posting the issues you've had.
If I do attempt it, your thread will be invaluable to me.

NotAPreppie

Williard

iTrader: (18)

#1 that's my last name.

#2nice numbers so far.

#3 next test at....1k?

Travis

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

What starter motor is that ? 275 rpm !