damn 108, it's 94f today in NYC and I felt a bit hot.
I have a feeling we might hit with over 105 this year in NYC. ahhh. world is ending ! panic bitches ! :lol: |
Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 3999035)
damn 108, it's 94f today in NYC and I felt a bit hot.
I have a feeling we might hit with over 105 this year in NYC. ahhh. world is ending ! panic bitches ! :lol: And that was at lunch time. My GF and I went to dinner at about 6 and the temp was 110F in her Mazda 3S. |
word its been averaging 96* up here.
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Hey 9k. New setup looks great. I'm having some cooling issues. Just wanted to see if I could pm you and pick your brain.
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Originally Posted by MaddHatter00
(Post 4001076)
Hey 9k. New setup looks great. I'm having some cooling issues. Just wanted to see if I could pm you and pick your brain.
PM away :lol: |
So now that we have the install and review done, here's a Group Buy! https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...13#post4016813
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nice DIY, but the OP fails WRT resulting operational data
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4016874)
nice DIY, but the OP fails WRT resulting operational data
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I wasn't so much knocking you as egging you on ... and I was wondering about the effectiveness of that fan kit over the OEM setup which has a pretty strong flow performance rating
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4016921)
I wasn't so much knocking you as egging you on ... and I was wondering about the effectiveness of that fan kit over the OEM setup which has a pretty strong flow performance rating
The Mizu fans have thinner blades which would seem to allow more flow at speed. But when standing next to Hoss-05's car after a drive there is definitely a lot more noise and a lot more hot air being blow out from under the car than you feel with my Mizu fans. I'm not sure if it means anything in terms of cooling but the Mizu fans are very quite compared to the stock fans. I should have hooked up both fans assemblies out of the car and done some testing. Maybe I will do that one of these days since I will have the car apart anyway. I should have a Mazmart radiator, pump, thermostat here pretty soon for Hoss-05's car and I am curious to see how it works out. I will have logs from his car as well. |
9k: any recommendations on sealing up the bottom of the radiator? After putting new sways in i noticed that the foam seal has become brittle and blown away as well. Thanks in advance!
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Originally Posted by silverbullet05
(Post 4055727)
9k: any recommendations on sealing up the bottom of the radiator? After putting new sways in i noticed that the foam seal has become brittle and blown away as well. Thanks in advance!
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thanks! So im guessing the other foam tape you used wasn't as good?
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Originally Posted by silverbullet05
(Post 4055749)
thanks! So im guessing the other foam tape you used wasn't as good?
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is it anything like a Mishimoto rad? only ask as i upgraded my stock rad in my gsx before i sold it, and used there fans/shroud and noticed a -10/20deg difference althou it sounded like a jet engine on high lol...
I like the install, have you done ducting work? as i see what i think is the Ac condensor? in front, helping air threw that and extra around would help (not sure how the front is laid out, as i have yet to tear mine 8 apart lol) but with a FMIC or AC condensor ducting helps, well it did with the gsx, -4deg extra drop. |
Updates?
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Originally Posted by Grimm0ne
(Post 4055948)
is it anything like a Mishimoto rad? only ask as i upgraded my stock rad in my gsx before i sold it, and used there fans/shroud and noticed a -10/20deg difference althou it sounded like a jet engine on high lol...
I like the install, have you done ducting work? as i see what i think is the Ac condensor? in front, helping air threw that and extra around would help (not sure how the front is laid out, as i have yet to tear mine 8 apart lol) but with a FMIC or AC condensor ducting helps, well it did with the gsx, -4deg extra drop.
Originally Posted by FazdaRX_8
(Post 4066399)
Updates?
Currently my baby is on jackstands awaiting my fresh built motor from Pineapple Racing and my newly upgraded and Greddy turbo by AMR. I decided to go big and do everything as best I can within my budget. Most would knock my choices on cooling but I think the Mizu will handle things just fine. Stay tuned, my car should be finished soon. |
Got my Mizu silicone hoses in!! Thanks www.sparkplugs.com!
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...63#post4101463 |
Did you make that aluminum undertray?
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Yeah I like the write up for the DIY. I had put mine in and for me installed is simple only thing I disliked like I had to make a few adjustments to make it fit properly. Plus this is a nice radiator I got mine with rad and shroud for cheap. But the construction on the welds are nice so I would recommend this to someone who Needs a replacement radiator and fan
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Originally Posted by sauceyI986
(Post 4146926)
Yeah I like the write up for the DIY. I had put mine in and for me installed is simple only thing I disliked like I had to make a few adjustments to make it fit properly. Plus this is a nice radiator I got mine with rad and shroud for cheap. But the construction on the welds are nice so I would recommend this to someone who Needs a replacement radiator and fan
So far so good with my Mizu fans and radiator on my new engine and turbo setup. But I have not gotten into boost during hot weather and that will be the test. The workmanship and fitment on the radiator was as good as I have seen and I have a brand new Mazmart (Ron Davis) unit in the garage that I compared it too. My setup is not really comparable to most but the radiator is definitely a great upgrade if you need to replace your factory rad and or fan shrouds. |
No problem, I'm glad if it helped.
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Update:
One of my Mizu Fans failed. I have been having some intermittent high coolant temps and I really could not figure it out but I guess the fan was working just not all the time. I noticed over the weekend when it started getting hot that one of them was not blowing very hard and then today after lunch it was running warm and when I checked it, it was dead, not blowing at all so I only had one fan in use. I had already purchased this Flex-A-Lite setup to replace the Mizu's after I started seeing issues and found out they are only rated at around 1800CFM. These bad boys flow around 3,000-3300CFM (spec differ from the online specs and the catalog) which shoudl be more than enough. Here it is test fit on a Mazmart Rad Hoss-05 is waiting to put in. http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7176469795/ Compared to my stock fan setup http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7354499020/ Rubber seal all around the inside to seal against the radiator. http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7354500264/ I will replacing the Mizu fans with Spal units that I will install on the Mizu shroud. |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4055737)
Yes, at Lowes or Home Depot they sell rolls of square 2"x 2" x 2" x 2" foam insulation. You can use double sided tape and attach it on to the bottom of the rad. When you put the tray on it will seal up good.
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Originally Posted by Razz1
(Post 4284491)
Why did you use this instead of the spray insulation?
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That and it makes a mess, and I wasn't sure what temperature range the spray stuff could handle.
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It's on the can. I have seen at least 1500 degree rating.
You can use painters tape to contain the spray and make it neat. Also... just wondering... why did you not buy an BHR radiator? |
Using push in foam works just fine and I can remove it easily when working on things. The Spray shit is just a hassle, I don't want that shit all over my custom oil cooler lines, turbo piping, and whatever else it can get on.
I didn't buy the Griffin for the same reason I didn't buy the Ron Davis, AWR, PWR, etc., etc. I didn't get those free. The Mizu radiator is well constructed, dual core, and has great fin density. If I ever feel the need to pay $600.00 for a radiator then I will looks at other options. But, being able to compare this directly to a Mazmart unit and a Koyo unit was nice because I could see how well this one is constructed. It's likely the cores of the more expensive units perform better under some conditions but this one works just fine. It just sucks that they didn't use SPAL or FAL fans on the fan shrouds. But then again if they did it would be a lot more expensive. |
is the oem rad a dual or single core? The reason I ask is if oem has a single core and it is replaced by a dual core then that greatly affects the water pumps ability.
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I have heard both but I am pretty sure the OEM is a single core. It's pretty thin. Thinner may be better, who knows.
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increasing the radiator cores really slows the coolant down and that has to be taken into consideration when designing a system.
This may be a reason why people are not getting as good a results from radiator "upgrades" over oem? IDK--but its possible. |
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 4284903)
increasing the radiator cores really slows the coolant down and that has to be taken into consideration when designing a system.
This may be a reason why people are not getting as good a results from radiator "upgrades" over oem? IDK--but its possible. |
Are the new fans the 410-420 ones on the flex-a-lite website? They look nice, waiting to hear your opinion on them once installed. I'm pretty sure my oem ones are about to crap out, no coolant temp change yet, but they are a lot quieter now which is getting my attention.
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Not sure, it's the 680 dual fan setup I think. I'll check the box.
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Why Am i being told not to hard wire this? that i would need a new wiring harnace. I looks like you did it here?? HELP
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Update:
The FAL unit rocks, even in this 100F weather it's rare that I get above 205F or so unless I'm pushing really hard and I have not been able to get above 215F or so. |
Originally Posted by Razz1
(Post 4284551)
It's on the can. I have seen at least 1500 degree rating.
You can use painters tape to contain the spray and make it neat. Also... just wondering... why did you not buy an BHR radiator? because my Koyo never overheat, going up a hill, bridge, mountain. beat the shit out of it, just never had issues. and it's 1/2 the price RonDavis/Mazmart works just as well. if not better. Now I'm using Knight Sports which double the size of stock rad. so I'm good :) |
Can you confirm the model number?
And holly crap 215*f??? What are your turn on temps? coolant ratio? I spaz out at 205* and kill the a/c, then it drops back to 18X* and I repeat the cycle. Maybe my fans are okay.. we have similar temps here and as long as I'm driving normally the temp stays under 195 (a/c off). But with the a/c on it just keeps climbing in traffic, on the hwy it stays under 200 with the ac on. |
Originally Posted by 1.3_LittersOfFurry
(Post 4317601)
Can you confirm the model number?
And holly crap 215*f??? What are your turn on temps? coolant ratio? I spaz out at 205* and kill the a/c, then it drops back to 18X* and I repeat the cycle. Maybe my fans are okay.. we have similar temps here and as long as I'm driving normally the temp stays under 195 (a/c off). But with the a/c on it just keeps climbing in traffic, on the hwy it stays under 200 with the ac on. Also Jegs makes their own dual fan setup that basically mimics the FAL but is much cheaper if you need new fans and are on a budget. They offer a good warranty on their products as well. If you need the measurements of the factory setup let me know. 205F in this weather is normal for a stock RX-8. 215F max is fine, you want to stay out of the 230F+ range as staying in that range or above for more than a few seconds with stock water seals can damage the motor permanently. I am running Pineapple Racing heavy duty water seals. I am turbocharged so I have a water cooled turbo adding heat to my coolant as well. But before you go upgrading stuff check the basics and make sure your coolant is good, good thermostat, WP, radiator foam seals are in place, etc. The factory radiator, fans, etc. are actually very good if they are working properly. |
Thanks for the info.
I figured I didn't need the control unit, I do use ATR and have my fans set L185/H194. I just get real nervous above 210, ever owned a s4FC? I had 2, it taught me fast when to back off. Damn dummy gauges lol. But thanks for saying whats safe, I figured +220* was the red zone. IIRC, radiator is 26.25, 15.5, 4? Going to have to check out the jegs site. I'm going to need a new radiator too. I have a crack on the upper large hose, not bad enough to leak, but it's only a matter of time, and I'm not dropping it twice. Coolant is less than 4 months old, 70/30 water/coolant, with watterwetter. (I run this in all my cars) Hoses are all new, silicone. Not sure on water pump and thermostat, coolant temps are very predictable when it's warming up. Never jumps around a lot, always opens around 181. Fans seem to be making a lot less noise than they use to, but I have no complaints about my a/c performance at idle. Sure it works a lot better when I'm moving, but it keeps the output temps in the 60's idling. Only coolant temps seem to be the problem. Never saw over 195 last year, this year 212. That is with the a/c on, with the a/c off it rarely gets over 195, even driving aggressive. I just want some fans that keep my temps under 200 no matter what I do with my a/c on. :lol: One problem I do know of, and I'm an idiot for never addressing it, I am missing the foam on the bottom of the radiator. But I have no complaints on coolant temps while moving, once I'm cruising at +40 temps are never a problem. But also, if I just let the car idle, and idle with the a/c on it stabilizes around 200-205, depending on outside temps. Weird. |
so your main concern seems to be the coolant temps with the a/c on?
You have the oem thermostat and water pump --correct? The oem thermostat doesnt fully ope until around 200F--if I remember correctly. First step get the mazmart 180F thermostat? It would also help to get the mazmart water pump. One of the main problems with our oem cooling system is that big assed a/c condenser in front of it. It puts out a lot of heat, when it is being used and blocks air flow all the time. Another main problem is that the heater circuit coolant ( and the amount is substantial) never sees the radiator. So it is never cooled and you have hot coolant mixing with the cooled coolant returning from the radiator at the thermostat housing. One good solution is a secondary radiator fed from the heater hose circuit. There is a vendor that has a new aluminum belly pan with a small radiator/its own thermostat and a small fan that will work very well in addressing those times when your a/c is on. Or you can do a DIY system. Our radiator depends a LOT on the fans. It is mounted at such an angle that free airflow itself is greatly reduced. Airflow through a radiator only occurs when there is a pressure difference between the front and the rear of it. That is one reason that low speed cooling on our cars need a little help and the reason that good fans make such a difference. The FAL controller operates both fans at the same time with variable speeds. This increases the cooling of the entire face front of the rad, not just one side of it as in oem. The oem set up brings the second fan up only after the coolant becomes even hotter--not the best imho. The cooling system in our car is actually pretty good, but it can stand a little help in certain circumstances. |
I was actually thinking of trying one of your other suggestions for now that you mentioned in a pm, moving the condenser a little forward of the radiator. Hate to lose a/c performance, but I'm still hunting down a oil leak and I have to see what financial adventure that takes me on first. Till then, I'll sweat it out.
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Let me add one little tid bit about the secondary rad, I have a fan on mine (came that way from Derale) and it sucks air through that cooler like you would not believe.
But guess what? It does very little to lower the overall temp of the coolant. At idle with it on it may drop coolant temps 1-2 degrees, that is it and at speed it is useless. When I get around to it I will probably just remove the fan altogether because it is blocking flow through the secondary rad. The main reason I have the secondary rad is to deal with the heat added by the turbo and think it along with the FAL fans I think they are working nicely. I did space out the condenser from the rad but it did not seem to do anything to the temps so I put it back the way it was. But really there is nothing you can do with it aside from removing it all together. The cooler on the tray mod is useless without ducting to it, I tried that. |
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 4317844)
so your main concern seems to be the coolant temps with the a/c on?
You have the oem thermostat and water pump --correct? The oem thermostat doesnt fully ope until around 200F--if I remember correctly. First step get the mazmart 180F thermostat? It would also help to get the mazmart water pump. Guess there is no way to tell if I already have the mazmart water pump and thermostat? I read they use the same housing. How sure are you on the thermostat? Because mine defiantly opens at 180, 180-200 to open seems like a long range. When warming up fully at idle the coolant goes up to 183 then drops to 179 then very slowly goes back up, can take a couple of mins for it to reach 185. |
I actually disagree on the Mazmart thermo and pump, I saw no difference really in temps with them installed when compared to other 8's running stock setup locally.
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4317937)
I actually disagree on the Mazmart thermo and pump, I saw no difference really in temps with them installed when compared to other 8's running stock setup locally.
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Yeah that is about what Hoss-05's car runs with a completely stock setup in cooler weather, around 179F or so.
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4317943)
Yeah that is about what Hoss-05's car runs with a completely stock setup in cooler weather, around 179F or so.
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I pulled my OEM thermostat a month or so ago. Tested in it a pot of water that I brought up to a boil, measuring points with an IR thermometer. The Mazmart one started moving by 170F, and was fully open by 190F. The OEM one started opening at 183 (as it's supposed to), but at the 203F that it is supposed to be open by, it was only 1/3rd open and only slowly creeping open from there.
Put the Mazmart thermostat back in and monitored coolant temps. Highway cruise used to be sitting at 185-190F, with the Mazmart it sits at 172F |
Originally Posted by RIWWP
(Post 4317946)
I pulled my OEM thermostat a month or so ago. Tested in it a pot of water that I brought up to a boil, measuring points with an IR thermometer. The Mazmart one started moving by 170F, and was fully open by 190F. The OEM one started opening at 183 (as it's supposed to), but at the 203F that it is supposed to be open by, it was only 1/3rd open and only slowly creeping open from there.
Put the Mazmart thermostat back in and monitored coolant temps. Highway cruise used to be sitting at 185-190F, with the Mazmart it sits at 172F When its Texas outside your temps sit at 200 ish with the ac on around 4000 rpm. at 3600rpm with no ac temps are around 185-190. |
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