Manual Transmission seal kit
So the clutch went out in my RX8 finally. Took it in to get it fixed at a small shop nearby. The shop is letting me buy my own parts and they are just charging me the labor. So I bought the clutch kit. They dropped the transmission to make sure there was nothing else wrong with it. They said they need a seal kit to put the transmission back on. Looking for a seal kit, all I'm finding is full rebuild kits for the engine, transmission, and air intakes. Not looking to spend that much. I found a place that lists two different seal kits and I'm not sure which I need or if either works.
SEAL KIT. Mazda # FB0149470 SEAL KIT. Mazda RX-8 # B3124153Z Any help? |
There is no kit. You need a front input shaft seal or input shaft housing with seal (recommended) and a rear tailshaft seal. These parts are listed in the transmission parts section.
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Team is correct, MT Trans do not have ''seal kits'', all the round oil seals are purchased separately and as needed.
The seal kits you have shown part numbers of are FB01 for clutch hydraulics Slave Cylinder and B312 for Clutch Master-cylinder which supplies fluid to Slave Cylinder which operates Clutch Fork which engages in or out of Clutch.....basically. Actual 6MT Trans Seals, one of each, OEM #, Y601-17-131 Seal Input Shaft, R501-17-335A Seal Prop Shaft Output 2 x Trans Seals are for Series I RX-8 only, 2004-2008 MY. |
R501-17-335A shows up as an automatic transmission seal
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Believe who you wish, the genuine Mazda EPC + someone who has work @ and 'with' Mazda Parts for over 3 decades (nearly 4 actually, being me), says R501-17-335A.
This Seal fits just about all AISIN Manual Transmissions used in Mazda MANUALs from 1987 to end S1 RX-8 6MT. Just for the record the Auto is...BW60-17-335 (4 Speed Auto ) or SJ01-17-335 (2006~ 6 Speed Auto). BTW Again, Full Seal Kits are available but only for AT's...you have a MT. |
If they're pulling the FW off for re-surfacing (and if you have any miles on it they should, especially with a new clutch) then ask them to re-torque the engine tension bolts. All they need to do it is a torque wrench and a page out of the FSM to show the order to do it. Takes < 10 minutes. With the FW off it's also easy and <$20 to replace the rear main seal and 'O' ring too.
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Originally Posted by Signal 2
(Post 4537758)
If they're pulling the FW off for re-surfacing (and if you have any miles on it they should, especially with a new clutch) then ask them to re-torque the engine tension bolts. All they need to do it is a torque wrench and a page out of the FSM to show the order to do it. Takes < 10 minutes. With the FW off it's also easy and <$20 to replace the rear main seal and 'O' ring too.
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OK. I'm waiting....please explain why this will require "luck".
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Cuz, u be lucky if a dealership tech will even dare to touch any of the engine tension bolts. For the record, dealership is not allowed to do anything(read: touch) on the short block
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and it's highly unlikely they will want to mess with those items for the minor amount of money you assume they will charge.
even as a builder i don't often like to retorque main bolts just for the hell of it, because if one snaps then what? the finger pointing and pissing match begins. |
Wasn't aware that snapping tension bolts was common. It's certainly not in my experience. But I understand from a shop perspective...because there is exposure there w/o any real return.
And I don't come here often, but it's good to see you here Karack....or should I call you Rotary Evolution? :) |
Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 4537564)
Believe who you wish, the genuine Mazda EPC + someone who has work @ and 'with' Mazda Parts for over 3 decades (nearly 4 actually, being me), says R501-17-335A.
This Seal fits just about all AISIN Manual Transmissions used in Mazda MANUALs from 1987 to end S1 RX-8 6MT. Just for the record the Auto is...BW60-17-335 (4 Speed Auto ) or SJ01-17-335 (2006~ 6 Speed Auto). BTW Again, Full Seal Kits are available but only for AT's...you have a MT. |
Ash has been a parts guy for decades,
Im not a parts guy, even i know what he gave u was right, that seal hasnt been change for decades so there is nothing special there. Mazda parts name are always funny, they call gasket a washer, vice versa. |
Originally Posted by Signal 2
(Post 4537962)
Wasn't aware that snapping tension bolts was common. It's certainly not in my experience. But I understand from a shop perspective...because there is exposure there w/o any real return.
And I don't come here often, but it's good to see you here Karack....or should I call you Rotary Evolution? :) |
Wow...good think you're not backing them out when you re-torque.
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Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 4538100)
Tension bolts usually wont back out on its own, if it did, that means the engine wasnt even built correctly in the first place
for what its worth (zero) the Mazda USA computer just says seal oil for the R501-17-335A |
;) Huh, What has a Mazda T Series Truck (SE01-15-205) Radiator Cap got to do with anything??
Where in description? |
Originally Posted by Signal 2
(Post 4538116)
Wow...good think you're not backing them out when you re-torque.
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 4538190)
the best one is SE01-15-205. its a radiator cap, and the description says "chugotta cap".
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Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 4538209)
;) Huh, What has a Mazda T Series Truck (SE01-15-205) Radiator Cap got to do with anything??
Where in description? |
Originally Posted by Signal 2
(Post 4537962)
Wasn't aware that snapping tension bolts was common. It's certainly not in my experience. But I understand from a shop perspective...because there is exposure there w/o any real return.
And I don't come here often, but it's good to see you here Karack....or should I call you Rotary Evolution? :) the risk versus reward is just too great for the tension bolts. i've seen people do it without issue but it's just something i prefer to avoid. the rear main seals usually don't give me any problems either and i prefer to leave sleeping dogs lie. "if it aint broke don't fix it", you can create problems by simply touching something that otherwise would have been fine and then who pays the bill? i just prefer to avoid the risk. for the Y16M-D Aisin series I 6 speed RX8 tranny, for reference if they break just toss them. took far too long to rebuild this one, although it worked perfectly the cost of the internal parts plus labor outweighs the worth of the transmission. on the upside i have enough parts leftover to rebuild the other spare i have for the caterham 7. |
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