i'm suprised that the air pump would fail so early..essentailly i can see that one of the three internal bearings could go or that an internal "blade" could have gotten a tad cocked and rub the housing initially until it seats back in the slots...
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The motor went on mine. Would blow the 60A fuse immediately when it was switched on.
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i have this same squeak noise as well. Also on cold startups i also get a noise that is noticably louder and lasts about 30 seconds.....i would like to know what that is. It kinda sounds like a cappuccino machine inside my engine bay..... mmm coffee
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I get a strange sound on cold mornings too. Not a squeak, more like a high-pitched hum. After less than 30 seconds its slows to a halt. Similar to the noise cartoon rebots make when that get shut down. That BEEEEeeeeoooo noise. I live in the coldest state the car has ever been in so I've only ever heard it this last winter. Hasn't presented any problems though.
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I am getting the CEL code for the air pump too. I'm catless, you guys think I should remove it or just leave it?
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if your catless, you don't need it. i'd leave it, unless you're bored and want to remove it. you'll need to get a block off plate to cover the air pump inlet to the manifold.
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emissions are 8yr-80K miles....air pump...
Look at the list of parts that are covered under warranty....towards the bottom.
http://www.epa.gov/oms/consumer/warr95fs.txt |
Just a FYI. There are two bearings (ENGLAND NMB 608S) in the motor and can be changed in about a hour. The brand/ part number of the bearing I used is NSK 608VVC3 and cost $8 each.
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Does the motor pop open easily? I haven't looked at it beyond what is visible with it in the car. I may looking at doing this in the coming weeks, esp when the bearings are so cheap.
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1 Attachment(s)
Question:
This may be apples and oranges, but how many of you are running aftermarket intakes? Mazda actually put out a TSB about airpump failure on the FD Rx-7. https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1262724078 |
Not really comparing Apples with Apples...
The RX-8 Air Pump is Electric...all previous rotaries use a mechanical belt/engine driven vane pump. |
Not the same.
Not to mention, unlike older RX, the air pump works only at start up. |
he DID say its probably apples to oranges lol. dont give him a hard time.
i will note that after i removed my air pump it reduced engine bay noise a lot... |
Originally Posted by G3tR3DDY2GR3DDY
(Post 3376530)
he DID say its probably apples to oranges lol. dont give him a hard time.
i will note that after i removed my air pump it reduced engine bay noise a lot... Did you block yours off? I may just unplug mine, it whines like a banshee at startup. |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 3376558)
Did you block yours off? I may just unplug mine, it whines like a banshee at startup.
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Ah hah! Header time!!
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i have one for sale :P
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I didn't realize the Rx-8 airpump was 100% electric. FD airpump was mechanical but with a clutch. FC and previous air pumps were belt driven and ran all the time, dumping the extra air back to the air cleaner when the air pump isn't needed.
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Originally Posted by arghx7
(Post 3378063)
I didn't realize the Rx-8 airpump was 100% electric. FD airpump was mechanical but with a clutch. FC and previous air pumps were belt driven and ran all the time, dumping the extra air back to the air cleaner when the air pump isn't needed.
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Originally Posted by otakurx
(Post 3376318)
Does the motor pop open easily? I haven't looked at it beyond what is visible with it in the car. I may looking at doing this in the coming weeks, esp when the bearings are so cheap.
Remove pump from car: Take pump apart: Remove the five clips that hold the filter and pump together. Remove filter from pump Remove the nut that holds the pump to the motor axle. Remove the pump parts IN ORDER......DO NOT MIX UP OR REVERSE THE PARTS Remove two screws (T-20 bit) from motor end housing. Remove motor from plastic housing (To seperate motor from plastic housing I tapped on the top of plastic housing with a rubber mallet.) Take the motor apart: Remove the end plate that holds the bearing closest to the pump. (The end plate is pressed secure with four tabs, and it will take some time to straighten the tabs.) Pop out bearing and replace with new one. (odds are this is the bearing that is ruined.) If the other bearing is OK you can put the motor and pump back together. Replace the second bearing: On the sides of the motor housing there are four tabs bent inwards . straighten the tabs out with a screwdriver. Remove the white plastic part that holds the brushes and black plastic connector.( Remove the white and black plastic parts as if they were one piece) Remove the armature and spring. Pop out bearing and replace with new one. Oh, Before resembling clean everything except bearings with electrical cleaner I think that is it. |
mine went out a few months ago... went from a slightly annoying whine to a really freaking loud whine over the course of a few weeks. Dealer replaced it under warranty.
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if your engine serpentine drive belt is not tightened fully to spec it will squeal on startup and then stop as it starts to get warm and grabs, which is fairly quickly
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My air-pump is on a shelf in my garage...
I have no cat to feed air to... |
Originally Posted by rote8
(Post 3381268)
my air-pump is on a shelf in my garage...
I have no cat to feed air to... |
Originally Posted by Rote8
(Post 3381268)
My air-pump is on a shelf in my garage...
I have no cat to feed air to... |
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