Loose a little coolant get a new engine
 

Well, at 20,xxx miles and 23 months of ownership, I'm getting a new engine. Had the car into the dealership for 20K service and they said they found a minor external coolant leak in the rear housing of the engine. I had had a low coolant light come on last November...but I figured after a year and a half of Texas heat, it wasn't unreasonable to have to add a bit of coolant.

Apparently, replacing the engine is the easiest fix??



AT

What? Where exactly is the location of the leak?

Scary, because mine has also had coolant just disappear to almost the low point. I thought that was normal though...evaporation or something going on, and just simply dumped more in. Guess it's not a normal thing huh.

I don't have any specific details other than they said it was the rear cover/housing. I am assuming that its the end piece of the rotor sandwich. The new engine should be in this next week and i'll ask some more detailed questions before I let them pull the old one. I have had no real engine trouble (other than the MIL's from the PCM program of the week era :) ) so this has me a bit spooked. I have questions like, is it a new factory engine, a factory rebuild, a joe's auto shop rebuild? what?

AT

That sounds just like my experience...didn't know anything was up until the low coolant light came on and I just topped off the resevoir. I even checked it about a month ago and wasn't appreciably low...*maybe* it was 1/4" below the mark, but I didn't pay attention to how exact it was on the line when I filled it.

AT

Definitely not normal. Coolant is not a consumable fluid. You may lose a little--like a few ounces--over a years time due to evaporation, but nothing like you are describing. It is either leaking externally from a hose connection perhaps, or leaking past the internal engine coolant seals. Check for spots of coolant under the car.

If you notice clouds of white smoke exiting the exaust the leak may be internal to the engine. In any case, you might want to schedule a visit to the dealer to have it checked out.

And definetly don't expect that you'll see it on the ground under the car. I have none, nada, zip making it to the ground. Thats even after my car sat in one place for eight days while the family went on vacation.

Aye, no coolant puddles here either or I would've taken action for sure. I think it was about after a year after I bought the car that I noticed that the coolant level had actually dropped appreciably enough that I felt like bringing it back up to the Full line. Speaking of which, it was during this time also that I would occasionally hear a gurgling sound at startup coming from under the car, which some people have also attributed to something being up with the coolant system...air bubbles or something getting into the fluids. I then got a coolant flush at the end of last year, and I have been steadily monitoring the coolant since. So far, it hasn't dropped, and I haven't heard that gurgling sound either. I do however notice occasional puffs of white smoke coming from the exhaust, particularly on cold days.

But thanks for the heads up, all this time I had thought that it was normal for coolant to disappear slowly.

Yesterday I lifted up my car and I saw sign of coolant leak at the end of rotor's housing. I only take half liter coolant water to the tank for 2 years, but I worry about this leakeage sign on the engine. I will try to make photos about it next weekend.

I for one will be interested in whatever pics can be provided.

Next Monday!

Atacdad,
I had the same thing happen at 19,585 mi. but mine was leaking at the front housing.

There were a few miscast housings that developed external water seal failures.
looks like you got on too. When was your 8 built?

The replacement could be a brand new, or it could be a Factory rebuild. All of rebuilds here in the states come from Cali. So if yours is goin to be arriving in a week, I'm guessing a rebuild.

My coolant light flashed on then off the other day. I checked the level in the bottle (Mazda, please make it so I can read the level of the fluid.) and it was only a slight bit low. I added what amounted to 1 Propel bottle's worth of water to it and it came up slightly above the line.

I wonder if I have a leak now. Crud.

I had the engine coolant light came on ahh around maybe Nov Last year, I got my car around June

After that I added to the Max level, so far its still at around the MAX level (when cool)

Sounds scary .... I have 12,033 miles now ...

I just checked my coolant again today...I got the coolant flushed in December I think, and it's at the low mark again. Guess I need to mention this the next time I'm in for service...along with the problem of my AT making crazy vibrations at idle.

I dunno about the RX-8 sometimes...it's a blast to drive but it's also incredible how many problems crop up with it, one after another. Brake squeals, flash after flash after flash, heat shield recall, hard starting, bad engine mount for the AT, and now coolant leak. Then there's all those problems the MT has had with its tranny.

I'd point it out to the dealer...my system was only down about a liter after 18 months.

Just came in this morning...the service writer had not seen the engine when I talked to him, but his guess was that it was a remanf as well. I'm a bit nervous about that...it could have a core with 80,000+ miles on it that I'm trading for a gently used 20,000 mile core (I'm not a hard driver). I'm told that I get the greater of 12month/12,000 miles or my outstanding warranty, so that gives me 2 years and 28,000? miles.

My light flashed for a week before I figured out that it wasn't a low windshield washer fluid light...found that out after I bought a bottle of windshield washer fluid and took the cap off of the reservoir to fill it...it was already full :scratchhe

I also had the gurgle noise, getting progressively louder, during this time. I was also using the heater (it was Oct/Nov). Since topping off the reservoir, I have not had the gurgle noise as i continue to use the heater.

Other threads have postulated that there are issues with air in the heater core as the vehicle is shipped from the factory...thus the reports of gurgling.

I don't think its unreasonable for the cooling system to suck in more coolant during its first winter weather exposure...just like the volume of air in your tires shrink when it gets cold, so does the air in the cooling system. This could create enough suction to pull in more fluid. Such was my reasoning when I needed to add coolant at the start of this last winter. I still think its valid.

Now my experience is that I might want to check out the cooling system to be sure.

Crap, now what? I've been off the board for the better part of the last 6 months, did I miss something?

Don't get off topic on your engine discussion with tranny issues. It's not that big of an issue

You can read about it here:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/your-second-gear-72972/

Also rgonza had this to say

My engine was replaced for supposedly the same reason - coolant leak from rear rotor housing. I never had any low coolant indication.

No worry's. I'm not harsh on anything.

oh man. now i'm nervous. i have a coolant leak as well but not sure exactly where yet. from looking under the car, i seems to be coming near the passenger side. i'm hoping it's a hose. i'm changing my oil this weekend so i'll have to check it out. hope i don't need a new motor. (crossing fingers)

Every now and then I may see 2-3 drops on my garage floor. I bought my car used with 11k miles on it last July. 24k miles on it now. Just a few weeks ago I started it and the low coolant light was on, then went out after a minute or so. Every now and then when the engine is cold the light will pop on and then go out. I have not added coolant yet. I'll have the car up on the lift tomorrow and will check for where it is leaking. I thought it may be something minor until I read this. I'll let you guys know.

i just made an appointment with mazda for monday. we'll see how it goes. only have 19k on my car now. i'm preparing for the worst. i just hate it when other people touch my car. warranties are a blessing and a curse in my opinion. blessing cause it doesn't cost me anything but when they work on it, they might screw something up (like forgetting a brake caliper pin) or simply dirty up the car. I wish warranties would allow me to do the labor and cover the cost of the parts. I know...i'm dreaming. wish my 8 luck guys.

Ok, one engine swapped. In case anyone was wondering $2830 in parts. That inlcudes(rounded to nearest $):
ENG. REMAN M/T $2500
EX. MAN. GASKET $55
OIL FLTR GASKET $3
IN. MAN. GASKET $84
RING, 'O' $4
OIL FILTER $5
MAZDA COOLANT (GREEN) $13
MOBIL 5W-20 $12 (5@2.45)
SPARK PLUGS $77
SPARK PLUGS (TRAILING) $66
BULK LUBE $10

Total Cost to Mazda, incl. labor: $3867

That's a coolant seal letting go. The only way to fix that is to open the engine. Since it was leaking on the outside of the engine, obviously this was the outer coolant seal. Had you been getting white smoke during engine operation, that would have been the inner coolant seal since that one would let coolant into the combustion chamber. If you know how to rebuild these engines this would be a easy fix since all you need is a gasket kit. If you have a coolant leak this early on a newer engine block, it's usually because of an assembly error. If the coolant seals aren't properly in their grooves, they can get pinched when the plates are sandwiched and torqued together. Remember these engines are hand built.

weird whenever I rev my car in neutral past 7k the low coolant light would come on and off... no leaks though. But what does this mean?

Last I checked the car rev limited to 6k when in neutral. But you might have a magic car. :mdrmed:

Here is my engine after almost 2 year.

I think that limit was in one of the more recent PCM flash updates.

mazda checked out the coolant leak and they said that it's coming from the radiator hose or radiator where it's connected to the hose. i have a PWR radiator and love it so far. I'm hoping it's not the radiator. i'm gonna slide underneath and check it out today. either way, i'm glad it's not coming from the motor.

The saga continues....

So now I'm leaking oil all over my driveway! ##$#@%(#!!! & !

Maybe some zero pressure, water free coolant might prevent this problem?

http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls.htm

Ok, new engine time again. Oil leaking from between the housing slices.

For those worried , the place to look for "fatal" coolant leak from rear rotor housing is to the right side of the engine right behind the oil filter. (use a flashlight).

Sorry for the poor photo quality, but i think you can understand where to look.

Mine is going to Mazda Monday to get a checkup. I'm at 49K miles, so if its gonna go I hope it does now.

Water pump.

Man......you have some serious voodoo issues!! Someone has you pinned, who did you cross.....?? :)

Changed Coolant Today
 

Decided to perform the required 24 month/24,000 mile coolant change using the Engine Coolant Replacement procedure from the RX8 engine service manual and the directions from the Prestone 50/50 premix solution and Prestone Super Radiator Flush. A quick recap:

Drive around the block or so to warm things up. When cool enough, remove cap, loosen drain screw and drain. Retighten drain screw.

Pour in Super Radiator Flush (approx 22 oz) and fill with demineralized water (approx 1.5 gals). Start engine and idle till warm. After engine warms, turn on heater to highest temp and run at approx 2500 rpms for 5 minutes, then 3000 rpms for 5 minutes. Shut off engine. Let cool a bit. Remove cap, drain, and tighten drain screw.

Why Radiator Flush: "A premium Prestone antifreeze change begins with Prestone Super Radiator Flush. Quickly helps to flush out deposits and oily residue to maximize your cooling system effciency" Could it help? Who knows. Likely couldn't hurt.

Fill system with demineralized water to rinse. Even though system capacity is 9.2 quarts, it only appears to fill and drain about 6.5 quarts. Repeat engine warming sequence above and drain.

Fill with Prestone 50/50. Repeat engine warming sequence above. Drain again. Over kill? Perhaps, but since some residual is left behind from the last rinse, it seemed to makes sense to drain and fill again.

Final fill with Prestone 50/50. Engine service manual suggests to repeat engine warming sequence above until coolant level no longer decreases. I did this twice.

No leakage and no spills on the old paint job (anti freeze and paint dont mix) Took about 90 minutes.

Cheers, :beer05:
Redcard

One word

"Wow"

Really only 1.5 gal of Dimin. H2o? I would be scared to that in Az. i'm not say saying what you did was wrong or anything like that, I just would think of something like this.

Any Low coolant light show up when you were doing this?

No lights ... just monitored the level on the tank as it warmed, and added more h20 or coolant when it receeded, which seemed to be the point of running at 2500 and 3000.

ok guys i will ask smthing stupid....
you check the coolant from the big white box at the front of your engine right? There is only one place and not like the other cars that you have a radiator cap to check the green fluid.... hope you understand...

Oh and i had the light flushed twice this year but nothing happened....
Hope you answer...

Yes you check the coolant from the *big white box*(more like bottle)

MOST cars today have that kind of *bottle* to store extra coolant.

Its pretty hard to read I know, but on the side of the bottle theres a MAX line. you can see it clearly if you flash some light on the other side.

if your *coolant* light came on twice this year .... add some coolant to it.

Coming up on 20K miles again..place yer bets!
 

hehe, its been about 2 years on the last engine swap...just to recap:
lost original engine to rear housing coolant leak (started this thread),
lost replacement engine to oil leak at the middle housing,
2nd replacement engine leaked oil too...bad pan gasket fixed at dealer.

So now that 2nd replacement engine is sneaking up on 20K miles...probably in the next couple of months. Anyone want to make wagers about it??:uhh:


Still love my car, garage rash and all :)

37K miles. still on original engine. :)

So my next question is....

If the coolant level is higher than the line could that be a reason for the indicator to flash? my mechanic put more coolant than usual.. IS THIS POSSIBLE?:banghead:

not really it just means your so called tech did not replace your defective sensor on the bottom of the fill container.me and the dealer don't get along to well(the tech's)because they always leave something loose or off by accident .i only let them do wro work because i am afraid if i pay for them to mess it up i would be pissed the f$#k off!49,000 miles 2004 6sp. and they just replaced my water pump and the battery was left loose and the hold down clamp is missing!!agh!!going back again!

Well just to contribute to this very informative conversation.

My car has 36250 miles and till now I have filled at about half a liter of coolant. So in 2 years and 36250 miles I filled 5 times (almost) of 100ml each time. This looked normal to me.

However, my concerns about engine leaking coolant were reinforced after I had changed my spark plugs. My plugs have a green like color signifying a moisture issue.

You can check my plugs at the photo below in detail:
http://www.imageshack.gr/view.php?fi...8dh8uuc4nc.jpg

Anybody had moisture is his plugs? This is definitely coolant leaking or it may signifying fuel with water mixed? Any other thoughts ?

In case that the green – moisture in plugs means internal coolant leaking how do you prove that to your dealer so that an action can be taken?