Longevity Of Engine Components
 

My car has 104k. Assume normal wear and tear up to this point [ No catastrophic failures]. All seals will be replaced with brand new parts and the engine will be rebuilt. With that in mind, how many miles, on average, can I expect to get out of the rotors and housings at this point? Assume regular maintenance will be performed.

30k..50k..100k(Yeah right :)?

You won't know until you open it up for most of the parts. Rotors will usually last until they see a catastrophic failure like apex seal failure or severe detonation.

I think everything is in overall good condition. Car started fine cold. Had intermittent issues starting hot, 2 - 3 sec cranks. Mostly due to low compression, and slightly due to the POS exide battery. I just don't want to pay 1400+ for a new seal kit only to find that the rotors and housings have a 130k life span before they start deteriorating to the point the engine stops working.

Honestly you won't know until you get into the motor. There are plenty of ones that run okay like you are describing that maybe have cracked and flaking rotor housings, or a scored e-shaft, or bearings that need to be replaced etc. etc.

I'll hope for the best. I'll see in a few days. :)

Rx8's rotor does not last as long as their cousin (eg:REW), due to the short apex seal, it makes the apex seal groove *wee out* much sooner.

other than that, most of the stuff last fairly long

getting rebuilt engine and was debating the oil injection mod does this really add to the life of the engine

What oil injection mod? Be more specific.

where u add the reservoir and and use 2 stroke oil and stop injection motor oil

that was more specific....lol

It's generally seen as a good thing to add. It lets you inject cleaner oil into the engine. The downsides are that it becomes easier to run out if you forget for a couple thousand miles, and that it can cause warranty hassle.

Overall it can help to limit carbon deposits, which may or may not be a problem in your particular engine at any given time.

I say go for it if you're willing to monitor the oil level in the reservoir (that you have to install with it) very diligently.

If running this mod. Should you still premix?

It's less necessary, but prefixing will give a more complete oil coverage.

some do, some don't. I don't and have my OMP table cranked up considerably. I burn through a quart of Idemitzu every 500 or so miles.

Experimenting with my RX-8 on seeing how bad I can take care of it, while still taking care of it, (basically treat it like a normal car) and how long it will keep running semi-normally for. When it finally decides to just not start anymore, or has a catastrophic failure, It will be fun to see how fubar'd the housings are (or not). I'll probably invest in taking care of the next engine better.

I don't premix
My OMP Leaks
I cold start the car and start driving usually within 30-60 seconds of starting it unless it's below 40F.
run 87 octane
basic off the shelf 10W40 oil.. or whatever I have laying around in the garage
I'll start it, move it, shut it off. Cold or Warm.
Has never flooded on me, or struggled to start
3,000-5,000 mile oil changes

70K miles on a Reman from 2009 and counting, 22,000 miles in 12 months. Made 3 Trips to Road America this year. 2004 6 Port with 123,XXX miles

Car spends most of it's time back road driving with RPMs between 4500-8000, see's a fair amount of Wide Open Throttle, and has seen it's fair share of rev limiter
Hot Starts great in the summer, keeps up nicely with my friends S2000, doesn't seem to be significantly down on power.

Impressive - keep us updated