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HELP!!! Issues after new engine! (Not Resolved Yet)
Okay well its not me with the issue, my friend's 8 motor blew so she had to get a new one. The motor is finally in but its having a lot of stalling issues at the moment and any diagnostic tools are unable to connect/communicate with the car. It's a 2004 GT with everything but the nav system and roughly 84k miles. what could be the problem/where should we look? :dunno:
EDIT: Update to the issue, this is where it stands on 6/8/2011, everything else we solved.
Originally Posted by itsdidihi
(Post 3999497)
ooooook.. It's been a couple weeks but here's whats going on. Finally got the clutch fixed. It was losing pressure because the clutch line had split right down the center. Got it replaced with a Russel Stainless Steel Braided clutch line, bled the system, and got my pressure back. Clutch working great. Took a look under the car at those damned switches as well. What happened was that one of the white ones seems to have gotten caught somewhere under the car and also split. So my boyfriend fixed that and no more check engine light.
So everything is almost good...... Except that the car is still idling low and stalling on me everytime I decelerate or stop the car. Well it's trying to. I can keep the car running by slowing down without the break and making sure i keep tapping the gas periodically. But if I leave the car in neutral with no pedals or decelerate without keeping the revs up over 2000rpm it just stalls out. What else can it be? Can those connectors maybe still be bad and have to replaced? Does the idle have to be moved up? If so how do I go about doing that? HEEEEELLLLLPPPP!!! |
Did you reset the e-shaft profile?
Commonly overlooked after a motor swap. 1) Turn the key to 'ON' (do not start). 2) Pump the brake pedal rapidly until you see the oil pressure gauge sweep to the middle and back down. 3) Turn the key to 'OFF' 4) Start the car. |
If the dealer installed it, bring it back to them. Even if she has past 100k miles there should be something like a 12month/12kmile warranty on the engine they just put in.
If there is no warranty, start simple, check fuses and grounds make sure they are all ok. |
Originally Posted by Jon316G
(Post 3983884)
Did you reset the e-shaft profile?
Commonly overlooked after a motor swap. 1) Turn the key to 'ON' (do not start). 2) Pump the brake pedal rapidly until you see the oil pressure gauge sweep to the middle and back down. 3) Turn the key to 'OFF' 4) Start the car.
Originally Posted by 1.3_LittersOfFurry
(Post 3983886)
If the dealer installed it, bring it back to them. Even if she has past 100k miles there should be something like a 12month/12kmile warranty on the engine they just put in.
If there is no warranty, start simple, check fuses and grounds make sure they are all ok. could the possibility of a vaccum leak be the cause of rough idle/stalling? this would be so much easier if the obd-II port was working :icon_no2::rant: lol |
1 Attachment(s)
Verify the ignition wires's coil-to-plug order is correct:
Attachment 172305 |
thanks for the help guys. i'll look into this stuff asap. and thx for putting up the post ricky. :)
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Bump.
Anyone else have any ideas why nothing can communicate with the car? |
3 fuses can upset the ECU - the 'room' fuse in the footwell, and the two 10 amp'ers underhood, marked 'engine'.
Try a hard reset, disconnect battery for ten minutes. Check the vacuum nipple just behind and below the throttle body - if it's got it's hose connected, disconnect and cap it to check that the VFAD system isn't the cause of your stalls. |
^+1
The ROOM fuse supplies the constant voltage to the OBD-II port and other devices such as the PCM. So verifying all of fuses and air/vac connections would be a good start. |
Capping off that vacuum line for the vfad leaves it always open, correct? If so I might do that either way. Any other vacuum lines I should check? And how do I check them?
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Yes, you can cap the VFAP nipple and the valve will stay open.
I would then remove the hose between the nipple and vacuum chamber so you don't have a loose line dangling. Where the VFAD nipple is under the UIM, run your hand around the intake curve and you'll find another nipple (and hopefully another vac line attached) for another vacuum chamber. Then behind the oil filler neck you'll see a line with a blue disconnect attached under the UIM, make sure that line is secured and then follow it to the other side (close to the brake booster) and ensure that is also connected (that end also has a blue disconnect). This is the thing that sucks about someone else doing a motor swap... its had to tell what they did or didn't do. Hell... they could have the fuel injectors connected wrong... so many possibilities. |
Man, just soooooooooooooo many fricken things it could be!
Which I wasn't 5 hours North, I could maybe help out some. Anyway...................gotta get that OBD port working so at least you will have somewhere to start. So is the only real issue(besides the OBD port), the fact that it just idles rough and stalls? Has anybody gone back and verified that the air intake track is as it should be? That both screens are in place, that the MAF was put in correctly? Do you know if new coils, plugs, and wires were put in with the new engine? |
From my understanding new coils plugs and wires were not. Though I could be wrong I'll check with Diandra later on that. I'm far from mechanically impaired (studying to be a mechanical engineer) so tell me what to check and where it's at incase I do not know
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Might as well download the service manual... you're gonna need it:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...service+manual |
thanks for that link. as soon as i can get my hands dirty ill use all the help from you guys to trouble shoot. if anything comes up, or if i check and note what i did check but the problem persists, ill post it here. thanks for everything so far everyone
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Thanks guys. Seems like we might have gotten it figured out. Not positive yet. I'm gonna wait till tomorrow when the car is cold to take it out for another drive and see if problems persist. But thanks for all your help. And especially you for coming over Ricky. I don't know what I would do without you guys and this forum. :)
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Originally Posted by itsdidihi
(Post 3984536)
Thanks guys. Seems like we might have gotten it figured out.
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Originally Posted by Jon316G
(Post 3984538)
Not even a hint?
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I hate being teased...
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bro i didnt have the tools i needed to look further into the car (left them at home by mistake) and its real frustrating cause im here losing sleep cause i wanna work on that damn car!! -_____-
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if the car is running at all and you cant communicate with the computer through the ob2 port---check uour tool--you may need a different one.
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Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 3984813)
if the car is running at all and you cant communicate with the computer through the ob2 port---check uour tool--you may need a different one.
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hey everyone, some good news and then possible bad news, not sure.
Managed to get the OBD-II port working, and were able to pull the engine codes to see whats wrong. The issue is the Neutral Switch. ill ask Diandra for the actual codes again but we were able to narrow it down to that switch as the culprit of the stalling, rough idle, and CEL. Stupid radiator light is on too but thats just the problematic sensor in the reserve tank up top. Ill keep everyone posted so you guys might be able to help us finish the problem |
why did you not take is to the shop you got it installed?
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Originally Posted by Novoken
(Post 3986085)
why did you not take is to the shop you got it installed?
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