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Razz, I probably wouldn't make it past the first block of my house with the engine in the state it is right now. It just dies after you restart it from a stall.
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Yesss, the 8 is running again. It was the damn spark plug the whole time. They were going foul. When I took the old ones out, to replace with the new the ones, they were black. So if you need to clean the spark don't follow the Mazda manual by cleaning it with fuel. Just wipe the damn thing with a clean rag and save yourself the headache.
After everything was put back in place I followed Charles PCM recalibration step below provided by BMonkey and the car is idling properly now. After the recalibation, I did shut the car down several times and start it again and it idles properly. Thanks all for the help. You guys are a great bunch.
Originally Posted by BMonkey
(Post 2445527)
Just for fun, try resetting the PCM then following these procedures.
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill View Post Like I said, I don't know if this procedure helps or not but I did it anyway. After two days with no cat my CEL just shut off. The latest issue of "Import Tuner" did some parts swaps and dyno pulls and I can say that my engine has the exact same peaks and valleys in the power curve that they measured. Must be that "N" flash. I'm beginning to hate it. Assuming there are no idle speed or initial timing issues; 1) Start the engine and warm it up completely. This means allowing one full cooling fan cycle. During warm up, make sure all accessories are turned off. 2) Idle the engine for more than 30s after the cooling fan has stopped, then turn the engine off. 3) Re-start the engine and drive the car in the following fashion: A) Idle the engine in neutral for more than 7m35s. B) Drive in first or second gears, between 25-46 mph, for more than 30s. C) Drive in second or third gears, between 38-62 mph, for more than 20s. D) Drive in fourth or fifth gears, between 32-62 mph, for more than 2m. It is said in the Mazda repair manual that this procedure allows the PCM to measure all that it needs to ensure no further CEL's unless there is an outstanding issue. CRH |
Yep, unless the tip is damage there is no need to replace them constantly. A lesson well learned for me from this experienced. Charles, what brand and type of carb cleaner did you use? I used the Gunk Non-Chlorinated Carb-Medic / carburetor, choke, and valve cleaner. Would this cause my plug to foul?
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
(Post 2448795)
What's funny, MZ, is that there are some around here who continue to think I am some sort of redneck crackpot who knows little about these overgrown Toro snowblower engines we have in our cars. I have been telling people for the past three years that they can, rather than replace plugs all the time, just clean them with carb cleaner and an old toothbrush. Mazda comes darned close to that with what you read from them, but until the electrode and tip are damaged there is no need to constantly replace the plugs.
I am glad I had something from the past that helped you.:) |
Hahaha :D Charles a good guy. Too bad I miss the chance to meet him in person at the socal dyno.
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