Got some engine codes, not listed in the sticky.
 

Well this car is becoming a lot more trouble then anticipated.. But it was inherited so what can I say really. I owe it to the guy to get it goin again, so on to the questions!

Anyways, got some engine codes pulled today, but one of them isnt listed in the techinical sticky here.

First one is P0037 Rear HO2S heater control circuit low ON 2 HO2S heater ´
(See DTC P0037 )
*Which 02 sensor is that, and wheres a cheap spot to get it?

And heres there code not found and the definition autozone gave me
P2010-Definition- "Variable tumble control system (VTCS)- Solenoid
- Valve circuit high input
Probable Cause- "Open or short circuit condition
- Poor electrical connection
- Failed VTC solenois valve.


Can anyone shed some light on these codes here?


Thanks for all the help here guys, its been a relief honestly.

That would be your rear O2 sensor. you dont HAVE to replace it, but if you want your check engine light to turn off you will need to. the rear sensor is only there to monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converter
the other code i havent the slightest clue. goodluck hopefully someone else will chime in

rear sensor, attached to the cat converter
Not sure about the 2nd. I know that some scanners don't have (CANbus?).
Try this thread https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/dtc-p2010-154278/

Is the rear sensor the expensive one? I found them listed as downstream and upstream, im not sure which one mine would be called. Also Not sure where to look for this online, if anyone has a good site they use?

And in regards to the pc2010, reading those threads you guys posted is scaring the hell out of me.. That one looks pretty damn serious.

you want to get the "downstream" sensor.
Check with forum vendor mazmart.com

save your money for now that you wouldve spent on that sensor as it only flags the light to turn on when your catalytic converter is below efficiency. use that money towards finding the root of and fixing your other code/problem.

replied here:

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=154278

ugggh. keep your posts on the problems in one thread OP so we dont go about duplicating the effort and cross posting answers.

follow Team's advice to follow Jon's DIY, specifically the APV

Apologies, I was under the impression that new irrelevant problems would go under different thread so that they may be searched for easier.

no you either post a thread with the car's problems OR post the problems in existing relevant threads. not both.

I deleted your obnoxious post to Team RX8. You should probably just go with "thank you"

perhaps you could at least be kind enough to tell us what kind of scanner you're using so that we can be entirely sure that you are not using the wrong one


.

well its at least can capable to get as far as it has. its just throwing out the generic code because it doesnt have a database for the Mazda specific codes

I'm assuming that is was a dinky actron, I got the codes pulled at AutoZone. As far as the o2 sensor, i'll take the advice and let that one be for now. I'm expecting to have to spend some good $ buying tools to get the engine out, that APV motor looks impossible to get to without doing so.. Unless anyone has any other suggestions?

Thank you in advance.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/diy-rx-8-engine-removal-how-pics-178937/
It's a sticky :spank:

Thanks, I'm familiar with the engine removal thread there. Was just hoping there would possibly be a way to get to the little APV motor without having to pull the engine. In regards to engine code P2010.. I'm sure it just needs a cleaning, thats just going to be a huge pain in the ass!

search apv and look for a sticky...

that code basically tells u the apv is not working the way it is. Its mot likely stuck. You are lucky modern computers can detect things fast. On my fc, the only way to tell if the 5/6 port is dead is u have to do test manually every so often.

Mine says APV is stuck open when its really not :(. I think the porting had something to do with it.

or you could have a bad drive motor/sensor assembly, that's why you have to inspect and analyze the situation properly

as soon as you pull the motor you can likely tell what is going on as the actuator gear should turn easily by hand to rotate the barrels from their open/closed positions, make sure you get it back in the proper orientation!

the motor is relatively easy to get to, Search and a service manual ftw

.

maybe, cuz its flowing more than it should, u didnt get a tune?

Yea I went thorough all the tests, I over torqued the screw for the apv gear. the magnet needs to go about 1 degree over. After countless hours of trying to loosen the screw I've stripped the thing and I will need pull the whole LIM to drill it out.

Might just end up paying a mechanic to do this one, the tools I would want would end up costing just about the same.

How long do you guys think its safe to be drivng with this APV motor engine light on?

It's tuned and it doesn't have an airflow sensor, I did have to cut into the apv port and valve and I think by doing so it triggered off the code.

Or it could be becuase the magnet needs to go over a degree, there was a TSB for that a while ago.

Hey shady, we happen to be in the same city my friend. I've been having nothing but issues trying to get to this APV without pulling the engine, cant even get in far enough to see the damn thing to try and clean the gunk out, which i believe is the issue. Im also going to try and run the car real hot tonight and see if I can burn anything outa it.

If your up to it, I could pay for some help with this damned thing if that doesnt solve my issue.

Also, does anyone know how long I can drive the car with this APV check engine light?

Thanks fellas,

Yea man bring it on over to my place if you want, or I can come to you. I'm up by 35 and parmer.