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You are getting power to the starter so it shouldn't be a relay or fuse.
You confirmed the battery is okay.
It would be odd to have the starter work before the engine pull and not work after... (likely not the starter assuming you didn't hook it up incorrectly at some time)
If it were me I would try two things
I would try turning the motor over by hand by using a socket on the crank bolt (with the car out of gear of course) to ensure that the motor isn't locked (worst case senario).
I would also take the starter out of the bell-housing and just let is hang there and try cranking it to see if the starter would free spin....
If those don't work, I would make a 4 or 8 AWG ground wire and connect it directly from the negative on the starter solenoid and connect the other end a strong ground point on the frame somewhere... (If that really juices things up it maybe a simple grounding issue)
I must let you know that I am not an expert, but this is what I would try....
Looks like the solenoid isn't sending out the gear. When I removed the starter it didn't free spin on the harness. I looked at the small flat connector's wires and they are a bit corroded. On my way to the junk yard this morning for a new starter. Then clean the corrosion out of the harness as much as I can.
Oh and the engine isn't locked. Turns smooth and easy.
You can confirm this by taking the starter to an autoparts store and having them test it for free.
Exactly, I went to the auto store last night but ended up with this lazy dumbass who whenever I go half ***' me. Long story short his test was inconclusive (not only did he not read the instructions on the screen he didn't know how to hook it up) and the new starter from his store takes a week to arrive. Off to the junk yard.
Looks like you have good idle and vacuum, which seems to be a rare thing on rebuilds lately. I also believe the two slave cylinder bolts are 12mm or something close.
That's the way to do it. Why pay someone else to have all the fun?
I actually did pay him though. He had some family issues and so gave me 40% off of the labor charge for the delay. With a 1 year warranty, I won't complain about that!
The only really useful data point in a point-in-time snapshot is the LTFT. The rest can change over short time scales.
That said, MAF rate and LTFT look fine.
If you haven't already, let it idle up to operating temp while looking for oil, coolant, and fuel leaks. Once that is done, drive it around the block. If it survives that, take it and your S.O. to get some ice cream.
Last edited by NotAPreppie; 07-31-2018 at 01:30 PM.
The only really useful data point in a point-in-time snapshot is the LTFT. The rest can change over short time scales.
That said, MAF rate and LTFT look fine.
If you haven't already, let it idle up to operating temp while looking for oil, coolant, and fuel leaks. Once that is done, drive it around the block. If it survives that, take it and your S.O. to get some ice cream.
07-25-2018, 06:32 PM
:
I also believe the two slave cylinder bolts are 12mm or something close.
