Got my engine back!
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Kamal El (07-26-2018)
#27
Registered
The starter gear should be extending outward to engage the flywheel when you power up the solenoid. Looks like a bad starter....
ooops just saw the post above. Ya beat me to it.
ooops just saw the post above. Ya beat me to it.
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Kamal El (07-26-2018)
#28
The starter is hooked up correctly...
You are getting power to the starter so it shouldn't be a relay or fuse.
You confirmed the battery is okay.
It would be odd to have the starter work before the engine pull and not work after... (likely not the starter assuming you didn't hook it up incorrectly at some time)
If it were me I would try two things
I would try turning the motor over by hand by using a socket on the crank bolt (with the car out of gear of course) to ensure that the motor isn't locked (worst case senario).
I would also take the starter out of the bell-housing and just let is hang there and try cranking it to see if the starter would free spin....
If those don't work, I would make a 4 or 8 AWG ground wire and connect it directly from the negative on the starter solenoid and connect the other end a strong ground point on the frame somewhere... (If that really juices things up it maybe a simple grounding issue)
I must let you know that I am not an expert, but this is what I would try....
You are getting power to the starter so it shouldn't be a relay or fuse.
You confirmed the battery is okay.
It would be odd to have the starter work before the engine pull and not work after... (likely not the starter assuming you didn't hook it up incorrectly at some time)
If it were me I would try two things
I would try turning the motor over by hand by using a socket on the crank bolt (with the car out of gear of course) to ensure that the motor isn't locked (worst case senario).
I would also take the starter out of the bell-housing and just let is hang there and try cranking it to see if the starter would free spin....
If those don't work, I would make a 4 or 8 AWG ground wire and connect it directly from the negative on the starter solenoid and connect the other end a strong ground point on the frame somewhere... (If that really juices things up it maybe a simple grounding issue)
I must let you know that I am not an expert, but this is what I would try....
Oh and the engine isn't locked. Turns smooth and easy.
#29
Exactly, I went to the auto store last night but ended up with this lazy dumbass who whenever I go half ***' me. Long story short his test was inconclusive (not only did he not read the instructions on the screen he didn't know how to hook it up) and the new starter from his store takes a week to arrive. Off to the junk yard.
#30
#31
Do you guys know the slave cylinder bolt size?
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thebubbadog (07-26-2018)
#33
Registered
Looks like you have good idle and vacuum, which seems to be a rare thing on rebuilds lately. I also believe the two slave cylinder bolts are 12mm or something close.
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Kamal El (07-28-2018)
#34
#36
#37
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
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Kamal El (07-28-2018)
#38
#39
Just bought new coils plugs and wires. Still getting the p0302. Have about 14 miles on it
The following 2 users liked this post by Loki:
Kamal El (08-01-2018),
NotAPreppie (07-31-2018)
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Kamal El (08-01-2018)
#42
Reset the ess
no more p0302
Here's what I look like now
no more p0302
Here's what I look like now
#43
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
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The only really useful data point in a point-in-time snapshot is the LTFT. The rest can change over short time scales.
That said, MAF rate and LTFT look fine.
If you haven't already, let it idle up to operating temp while looking for oil, coolant, and fuel leaks. Once that is done, drive it around the block. If it survives that, take it and your S.O. to get some ice cream.
That said, MAF rate and LTFT look fine.
If you haven't already, let it idle up to operating temp while looking for oil, coolant, and fuel leaks. Once that is done, drive it around the block. If it survives that, take it and your S.O. to get some ice cream.
Last edited by NotAPreppie; 07-31-2018 at 01:30 PM.
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Kamal El (08-01-2018)
#44
The only really useful data point in a point-in-time snapshot is the LTFT. The rest can change over short time scales.
That said, MAF rate and LTFT look fine.
If you haven't already, let it idle up to operating temp while looking for oil, coolant, and fuel leaks. Once that is done, drive it around the block. If it survives that, take it and your S.O. to get some ice cream.
That said, MAF rate and LTFT look fine.
If you haven't already, let it idle up to operating temp while looking for oil, coolant, and fuel leaks. Once that is done, drive it around the block. If it survives that, take it and your S.O. to get some ice cream.
Lmao,
Thanks but my S.O. only takes Castrol gtx
#45
$9.07 for an O-ring?
#46
Registered
Goodness! What's it for?
#47
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