Good technical discussion about Engine Oils
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 9,134
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From: Houston
Someone from here apparently got on that forum and posted a question to aehaas about oils for the rotary. Here was his response:
There are too many variables in those engines and there has been trouble with every oil used. I would stick with the factory suggestions as they have the largest data base to use for failure analysis.
There are too many variables in those engines and there has been trouble with every oil used. I would stick with the factory suggestions as they have the largest data base to use for failure analysis.
RG, too late :P
see my post #147
but just lemme say it one more time, after all Dr. H's wonderful talk of how oil this and that, the conclusion is : Use whatever the you want or Manufacture recommends ...
I get it, I really do. -_-
see my post #147
but just lemme say it one more time, after all Dr. H's wonderful talk of how oil this and that, the conclusion is : Use whatever the you want or Manufacture recommends ...
I get it, I really do. -_-
Someone from here apparently got on that forum and posted a question to aehaas about oils for the rotary.
Well, and I think in the Renesis the type of oil you choose is not as important as premixing. I don't know for sure but I'm willing to bet that had I premixed for the life of my second engine It would have lasted longer. I don't blame my failure on my 10W30 Castrol GTX. That said, I will likely be running 0W40 synthetic. But I'm am still reading as much as I can find to try and make my own semi-educated choice.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Jul 22, 2009 at 01:37 PM.
Lubricious
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,425
Likes: 4
From: SF Bay Area, California
*Synthetic is good
*use the lowest weight w number oil you can get
*use the weight of oil that gives you the operating pressure recomended by the manufacture (for your driving conditions)
amazing how two people reading the same thing will draw totally different conclusions
the conclusions I made were :
*Synthetic is good
*use the lowest weight w number oil you can get
*use the weight of oil that gives you the operating pressure recomended by the manufacture (for your driving conditions)
amazing how two people reading the same thing will draw totally different conclusions
*Synthetic is good
*use the lowest weight w number oil you can get
*use the weight of oil that gives you the operating pressure recomended by the manufacture (for your driving conditions)
amazing how two people reading the same thing will draw totally different conclusions
Paul.
I am quite sure, Paul, that Team was suggesting that you post should have been the end of this thread as it is quite wise and informative.
I don't believe he meant it to be a slur on you, just towards teh uninformed blather that the thread was and continues to be.
That is not to say that there is not informative material here. But there are alot of assertions that MAY BE TRUE, but are as yet unsupported.
Why didn't you respond to my PM Paul?
I don't believe he meant it to be a slur on you, just towards teh uninformed blather that the thread was and continues to be.
That is not to say that there is not informative material here. But there are alot of assertions that MAY BE TRUE, but are as yet unsupported.
Why didn't you respond to my PM Paul?
Paul.
the conclusions I made were :
*Synthetic is good
*use the lowest weight w number oil you can get
*use the weight of oil that gives you the operating pressure recomended by the manufacture (for your driving conditions)
amazing how two people reading the same thing will draw totally different conclusions
*Synthetic is good
*use the lowest weight w number oil you can get
*use the weight of oil that gives you the operating pressure recomended by the manufacture (for your driving conditions)
amazing how two people reading the same thing will draw totally different conclusions
but ... isnt that still "use whatever you want" ?
Last edited by nycgps; Jul 22, 2009 at 09:44 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Houston
I forgot one important thing when I mentioned what our oil must do. I forgot about stationary gear lubrication. Oops! On our large mud pumps at work, we have an oil that must lubricate both the large gears AND the bearings. I need to look into this further but experience with our pumps tells me that because of this one factor we should be using an oil with a very strong film strength. That means synthetics. Then again I use them anyways. More to come on this when I figure it all out!
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: UK
Strong film strength, lots of MoS2/Ep additives due to the pressure, and of course, you need an oil that foams as little as possible - which means a light oil weight, which is why most dampers run a 5 weight oil...
Last edited by PhillipM; Jul 24, 2009 at 05:14 PM.
Ayrton Senna Forever
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 406
Likes: 1
From: Europe
Oil pressure (reference value)
Oil temperature: 100C {212F} @ 3000 RPM
2004-08 RX-8 50.8 PSI...Oil Filter By Pass Pressure 11.4—17.1 PSI........Oil Pump Relief Valve Opening Pressure 64.0—71.0 PSI
.... 2009 RX-8 72.5 PSI...Oil Filter By Pass Pressure 20.3—26.1 PSI........Oil Pump Relief Valve Opening Pressure 156.6 PSI
Oil temperature: 100C {212F} @ 3000 RPM
2004-08 RX-8 50.8 PSI...Oil Filter By Pass Pressure 11.4—17.1 PSI........Oil Pump Relief Valve Opening Pressure 64.0—71.0 PSI
.... 2009 RX-8 72.5 PSI...Oil Filter By Pass Pressure 20.3—26.1 PSI........Oil Pump Relief Valve Opening Pressure 156.6 PSI
Are you sure in your 64.0-71,0 PSI data?
According to my aftermarket gauge the max pressure is 74 PSI, and I never get higher pressure.
Otherwise I usually get this pressure very early (at 4000-4500rpm), when the oil at 194-212F, with a 30 weight oil (0w-30 Mobil-1).
Maybe my gauge is not perfect, because it's shows bigger max pressure than your 71PSi data, but less than 78 PSI, which would be the minimum, according to the european spec.
Last edited by ayrton012; Jul 28, 2009 at 08:22 AM.
5/20w oil will not acceive fractory recommended oil pressures even at lower temps than the factorys base.
At least in my car it wont.
Found this out years ago.
front bearing was to copper when i tore it down
.
pressure with 5w/20 at oil temp of approx 180 was 47-48 at 3K rpm (mechanical gauge)
factory standard --oil pressure at 3k rpm at a temp of 212F should be 50-52. Small potaeto's---maybe.
I know it is frowned on by some but i am now using a 5/40 deisel oil. I change q 3 K miles. I change before a track event and I change after a track event. I also have a filter mag--it does work. And its purty. I have a relocated filter.
cooling is under control and oil temps never see over 210-220F
Most of the time it is at 180 or so.
Some of the issues being discussed here--deisel oil specifically address's. Maybe it is worth a second look for some?
Good discussions.
olddragger
At least in my car it wont.
Found this out years ago.
front bearing was to copper when i tore it down
.
pressure with 5w/20 at oil temp of approx 180 was 47-48 at 3K rpm (mechanical gauge)
factory standard --oil pressure at 3k rpm at a temp of 212F should be 50-52. Small potaeto's---maybe.
I know it is frowned on by some but i am now using a 5/40 deisel oil. I change q 3 K miles. I change before a track event and I change after a track event. I also have a filter mag--it does work. And its purty. I have a relocated filter.
cooling is under control and oil temps never see over 210-220F
Most of the time it is at 180 or so.
Some of the issues being discussed here--deisel oil specifically address's. Maybe it is worth a second look for some?
Good discussions.
olddragger
