Gas/Oil Premix Thread
#3526
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I didn't mean it as a bad thing for that oil, it is just always a bit better if you have a independent company test it and say that oil is as advertised. I would definitely trust Idemitsu when they say it "exceeds jaso-fc classifications", if I could get bottles locally that is what I would be using.
#3531
FI by Pettit-BHR-Cobb AP
iTrader: (3)
I didn't mean it as a bad thing for that oil, it is just always a bit better if you have a independent company test it and say that oil is as advertised. I would definitely trust Idemitsu when they say it "exceeds jaso-fc classifications", if I could get bottles locally that is what I would be using.
#3532
Registered
I wish I could right now Phil, I appreciate the offer but I just can't afford it. Hopefully next time you order one I will be able to.
Do you have to order it by the case from them? I tried checking their website but the "wholesale ordering" part wont load for me at all even if I make an account and am logged in.
Do you have to order it by the case from them? I tried checking their website but the "wholesale ordering" part wont load for me at all even if I make an account and am logged in.
Last edited by xexok; 09-14-2012 at 12:42 PM.
#3533
Registered RX8 Nut
iTrader: (11)
I wish I could right now Phil, I appreciate the offer but I just can't afford it. Hopefully next time you order one I will be able to.
Do you have to order it by the case from them? I tried checking their website but the "wholesale ordering" part wont load for me at all even if I make an account and am logged in.
Do you have to order it by the case from them? I tried checking their website but the "wholesale ordering" part wont load for me at all even if I make an account and am logged in.
#3534
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wish I could right now Phil, I appreciate the offer but I just can't afford it. Hopefully next time you order one I will be able to.
Do you have to order it by the case from them? I tried checking their website but the "wholesale ordering" part wont load for me at all even if I make an account and am logged in.
Do you have to order it by the case from them? I tried checking their website but the "wholesale ordering" part wont load for me at all even if I make an account and am logged in.
#3535
Zoomin'
iTrader: (8)
After I finish up my gallon of pennzoil, I'm going to order a case of idemitsu.
But seriously, whats up with the mixed up information? If you go back a couple of pages, people say using tcw 3 synthetic oils are fine to use, then some people say don't say tcw 3... In the end there really is no evidence to back up which kind of oil is better for premixing... Or is there?
What would be the difference between using TCW 3 or Jaso FC?
But seriously, whats up with the mixed up information? If you go back a couple of pages, people say using tcw 3 synthetic oils are fine to use, then some people say don't say tcw 3... In the end there really is no evidence to back up which kind of oil is better for premixing... Or is there?
What would be the difference between using TCW 3 or Jaso FC?
#3536
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
What would be the difference between using TCW 3 or Jaso FC?
Modern ISO or FC rated two-stroke oil is a synthetic smoke free low deposit lube, made from scratch to accomplish it's task.
TCW3 is low tech slime, not designed to burn, boat motors run super cool, and the oil isn't made for high temps at all - it's supposed to slobber out into the exhaust and has lots of metallic additives to keep everything moving. These would kill a catalyst if used in quantity.
The unburned residue in the exhaust ends up below the surface of a lake, so they tend to put more priority on being bio-degradable. It is common to find it bio-degrading in the boats' oil tank, globbing into a gel.
Just look for a general purpose oil that meets ISO standard E-GD, or the Japanese JASO FC specs.
One more time, please don't use boat slime in your Renesis.
Modern ISO or FC rated two-stroke oil is a synthetic smoke free low deposit lube, made from scratch to accomplish it's task.
TCW3 is low tech slime, not designed to burn, boat motors run super cool, and the oil isn't made for high temps at all - it's supposed to slobber out into the exhaust and has lots of metallic additives to keep everything moving. These would kill a catalyst if used in quantity.
The unburned residue in the exhaust ends up below the surface of a lake, so they tend to put more priority on being bio-degradable. It is common to find it bio-degrading in the boats' oil tank, globbing into a gel.
Just look for a general purpose oil that meets ISO standard E-GD, or the Japanese JASO FC specs.
One more time, please don't use boat slime in your Renesis.
#3537
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
One of the side effects of being a terrible oil, is that it is a terrible oil.
The acceptance tests for JASO certification include protecting a loaded piston/cylinder at more than 200:1 ratio.......don't try that with ANY TCW-3 bilgelube.
Yes it's cheap, yes, you can find it at any gas station, but no, don't use it.
The acceptance tests for JASO certification include protecting a loaded piston/cylinder at more than 200:1 ratio.......don't try that with ANY TCW-3 bilgelube.
Yes it's cheap, yes, you can find it at any gas station, but no, don't use it.
#3539
Zoomin'
iTrader: (8)
hello guys i need help. my car started smell like gasoline so i check under rear seats driver side. there is that cap on top of the fuel tank. gas is leaking from there. i don't know if its the gasket of the cap or i need the whole cap. any advice? or where i can find cheap parts or anything??
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
AGREE, OP start your own thresd...ASH8
#3540
Super Moderator
Sure is.....
Plus, very handy to fix a sticking house screen door lock striker plate, just a thin wipe of A-SP on the flat curved plate and door is as smooth as cream.....screen door now glides shut for the next 4 months, then another wipe.
A1 .....Amsoil.
Plus, very handy to fix a sticking house screen door lock striker plate, just a thin wipe of A-SP on the flat curved plate and door is as smooth as cream.....screen door now glides shut for the next 4 months, then another wipe.
A1 .....Amsoil.
#3542
Zoomin'
iTrader: (8)
I think some things should be clarified, after several PM's between me and STEALTH and doing some online research on TCW-3. It is definitely designed to be burnt and fully combust without leaving any residue or ash (if it is a synthetic ashless oil). It is made WITHOUT any metallic additives, as it is meant to burn ashless it does not contain any.
While it probably wouldn't do any harm to the car (besides the catalyst), the problem with TCW-3 lies within it's lubricating capabilities. It is not as good as an oil at lubricating as a ISO or JASO FC certified oil is. TCW-3 is an oil that is not good enough to lubricate snowmobiles and motorcycle engines, and has lead to failure to those engines that TCW-3 oils were used in. Not because the oil itself caused the failure, it just didn't serve it's purpose in lubricating the bearings and engine parts that needed lubricity, hence the failure.
So what I'm trying to get at is... TCW-3 oils suck as a lubricating oil. A JASO FC and ISO oil would do a much better job. TCW-3 premix is not the worst thing you can put in the car though, it shouldn't harm it, and it should lubricate some what, but it just isn't the best lubricant we would want for our engine; we would want to get the best we could in there. I just wanted to clarify this and explain some of these details, so that people using TCW-3 as premix don't get scared and think that they have potentially harmed their engine by using a oil with metallic particles (not true) that isn't meant to combust in their car (not true as well).
If you were using TCW-3 oils as I was, you should definitely switch to something else like idemitsu or any other 2-cycle oil JASO FC or ISO rated. This is one long assss thread, and reading through it is a pain, but if one does so you would find how contradicting a lot of the information is. I just wanted to make it easier for some people, and so that others don't make the same mistake I and many others have made.
While it probably wouldn't do any harm to the car (besides the catalyst), the problem with TCW-3 lies within it's lubricating capabilities. It is not as good as an oil at lubricating as a ISO or JASO FC certified oil is. TCW-3 is an oil that is not good enough to lubricate snowmobiles and motorcycle engines, and has lead to failure to those engines that TCW-3 oils were used in. Not because the oil itself caused the failure, it just didn't serve it's purpose in lubricating the bearings and engine parts that needed lubricity, hence the failure.
So what I'm trying to get at is... TCW-3 oils suck as a lubricating oil. A JASO FC and ISO oil would do a much better job. TCW-3 premix is not the worst thing you can put in the car though, it shouldn't harm it, and it should lubricate some what, but it just isn't the best lubricant we would want for our engine; we would want to get the best we could in there. I just wanted to clarify this and explain some of these details, so that people using TCW-3 as premix don't get scared and think that they have potentially harmed their engine by using a oil with metallic particles (not true) that isn't meant to combust in their car (not true as well).
If you were using TCW-3 oils as I was, you should definitely switch to something else like idemitsu or any other 2-cycle oil JASO FC or ISO rated. This is one long assss thread, and reading through it is a pain, but if one does so you would find how contradicting a lot of the information is. I just wanted to make it easier for some people, and so that others don't make the same mistake I and many others have made.
#3545
I have a 6 spd manual, 2007 Mazdaspeed M'z JDM model with 30k KM. I just started using 0.5 ounce Amsoil Saber Pro per gallon (so about 6 ounces per tank full), but I get the code P0172 (running rich) whenever I put 6 ounces. If I dilute it by adding some more high octane petrol, the CEL goes away (after clearing it of course). About 4 ounces is the max I can run safely per tank without getting the CEL. I'm also feeling a very slight loss of power since I started pre-mixing. Anyone else experience something similar?
Last edited by samirali; 09-17-2012 at 02:23 PM.
#3547
Super Moderator
#3549
I have a 6 spd manual, 2007 Mazdaspeed M'z JDM model with 30k KM. I just started using 0.5 ounce Amsoil Saber Pro per gallon (so about 6 ounces per tank full), but I get the code P0172 (running rich) whenever I put 6 ounces. If I dilute it by adding some more high octane petrol, the CEL goes away (after clearing it of course). About 4 ounces is the max I can run safely per tank without getting the CEL. I'm also feeling a very slight loss of power since I started pre-mixing. Anyone else experience something similar?
My omp must be set low because my 07 6spd auto has never used more than 1/2 quart in 2k miles.
I 'm running 8 oz per 12 gal fillup, took an original plug out at 30k miles and it had almost no black carbon on it.
However, I did put the BHR coils on it.
The spark should be real good under oiling conditions; make sure you've got new coils.
#3550
My omp must be set low because my 07 6spd auto has never used more than 1/2 quart in 2k miles.
I 'm running 8 oz per 12 gal fillup, took an original plug out at 30k miles and it had almost no black carbon on it.
However, I did put the BHR coils on it.
The spark should be real good under oiling conditions; make sure you've got new coils.
I 'm running 8 oz per 12 gal fillup, took an original plug out at 30k miles and it had almost no black carbon on it.
However, I did put the BHR coils on it.
The spark should be real good under oiling conditions; make sure you've got new coils.
Last edited by samirali; 09-18-2012 at 04:48 AM.