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Freq 02-28-2017 04:31 PM

ECU/Ignition Replace
 
Replacing the ecu with matching locks including ignition lock and key.

While researching, I found some conflicting opinions as to whether will also need 'ECU rebuilt with "as built" data from Mazda.' .

Will I need anything other than matching ecu/locks/key in order to make the swap without having to reprogram the keys?

StealthTL 02-28-2017 07:51 PM

If you can find a 2004 ECU, you could have it flashed to the Race Tune by Racing Beat.

This removes the 'security' features, enabling any key (that fits the ignition) to start the car.....

....plus you get the nice 'crackly' race tune to drive with.

Worked for me!

$300 and the red security light flashes forever, but prolly cheaper than having the dealer dink around.

.

Freq 03-01-2017 07:19 AM


Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill (Post 4807645)
You will need to "marry" the ECU and the security modules.

By 'security module' do you mean the keyless entry module?

eg:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0c7f1fafbf.jpg

In other words, I'm wondering if I get the ecu,locks, key *and* keyless entry module from the same '04 mt, then swap into my '04 mt-could I forego the programming.

dannobre 03-01-2017 01:24 PM

The ECU needs to be programmed to the other CAN modules in the car. Ones that come to mind are the power steering module and the traction control/DSC/ABS unit and the dash.

dannobre 03-01-2017 03:58 PM


Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill (Post 4807786)
What Dan said, as well as the alarm/immobilizer module.
I am having quite a nightmare with my own car right now.....

I had an issue with mine as well. Put in an ECU and reprogrammed it and all was good for a while.

( after the tech and I spent about 3hrs trying to figure it out...on the line with MNAO Techline a few times too. It is NOT that easy to do..sometimes you have to do steps multiple times to get it to work)

About a week after that it wouldn't start...and wouldn't connect to the WDS.

Dealer couldn't figure it out...after about an hour they said that the ECU was screwed again....so I took it home . Spent about 2 hours going over everything I could think of....and finally found the stupid fuse that supplies the power to the OBD connector had blown. After that everything worked properly and it started right up. Never did really sit down and figure out the reason...might have been the power source for the immobilizer module? Haven't had a problem in the last 6 or 7 years so not sure where the issue came from in the first place.

Freq 03-01-2017 04:58 PM


Originally Posted by dannobre (Post 4807789)
I had an issue with mine as well. Put in an ECU and reprogrammed it and all was good for a while.

( after the tech and I spent about 3hrs trying to figure it out...on the line with MNAO Techline a few times too. It is NOT that easy to do..sometimes you have to do steps multiple times to get it to work)

About a week after that it wouldn't start...and wouldn't connect to the WDS.

Dealer couldn't figure it out...after about an hour they said that the ECU was screwed again....so I took it home . Spent about 2 hours going over everything I could think of....and finally found the stupid fuse that supplies the power to the OBD connector had blown. After that everything worked properly and it started right up. Never did really sit down and figure out the reason...might have been the power source for the immobilizer module? Haven't had a problem in the last 6 or 7 years so not sure where the issue came from in the first place.

Thanks for that. .. let's me know what the situation could be and what I may be in for.
Looks like I've got some decisions to make.

dannobre 03-02-2017 10:24 AM


Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill (Post 4807886)
Big help for me, too, Dan, thank you. I am also leaning toward a failed engine wiring harness as those seem to be happing more and more frequently.


What is yours doing?

200.mph 03-02-2017 10:58 AM

i have an ecu if someone needs one

dannobre 03-02-2017 07:36 PM

Have you checked shaft sensor signal?
Although that wouldn't explain the fuel pressure drop out...sounds like something is dropping the ECU signals.

Does it get worse when it is warm? or will it run long enough to warm up?


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