In the US , aren't the negative and positive terminal's a different size ? We don't have Optima batteries here, so I'm not familiar with their configuration.

i bet it's just the main fuse also, but possibly with a side of viper alarm fuses.

Just looked at the main fuse, and it was broke so I ordered the part it will be here on the 11th once this gets he I will replace it and go from there, the reason I did t check this first was because its a 120a and I just put the terminals on backwards, I didn't think that it would blow the main, I mean all in all it's only a 12.5v battery, I didn't think that it could, I was wrong, so now I'm fixing that

I hope so too, I checked the alarm first thinking it was that since I disconnected the battery in the beginning, if it doesn't work when I replace the fuse, I will replace all relays, after that and it doesn't work I will tow it to a shop and let them inspect it and see what shopping list they come up with, then I will start replacing what they have on the list, no biggie :fingersx:

Probably blew from the current going across the diodes in the alternator. Count yourself as very lucky if it works.

So I would hate to have to get rid of my 8. But, my car has been on 5 flat beds and 3 shops 1100 bucks, 14 days and a sexy Hyundai accent!!!:dunno: NO ANSWERS!!
My car 2 weeks ago misfired and stalled on the road. The CEL flashes I take it to a shop the family mechanic whom changed a "leaky fuel injector" and threw in the towel 5 days later. Off to the dealer the say I need a starter and ignition coils. I put the ignition coils in along with the starter. Take it to a third shop and they flood the engine and finally get it to turn on but say that my spark plugs which I changed 3 months ago were bad. Car now runs but still misfires runs rough the code is a CYLINDER MISFIRE 2. I call the dealer they say you need wires and to reset the ESS. the mechanic says he reset it with the handheld device. I bought the wires and still misfiring. They dont know what to do. Any Ideas the car has 41k AT 04 Rx8. Maybe the ESS reset only work's with the 20 brake pump method. I am not sure but its been 2 weeks:icon_bs::icon_bs::crying:

Disconnect battery for 20min and let the computer reset. flashing CEL is always missfire. Sometimes the ecu has to be reset after fixing a problem, because it has learned bad data like fuel trims.

Oh and an upgraded starter is always a good idea.

Talle, you may want to clean the ESS too. it's on the lower left of the engine by the ES pulley.No need to remove it, spray a little carb cleaner on it then wipe the surface facing the chopper wheel.

Aright, just got in the new fuse, along with another few items, and now I can't get the fuse on where it's meant to be, the secondary screws are hard to get in the back plate behind the fuse box, I pulled out the fuse box but I still can't get the other screws in so give me some time today so I can get the fuse in the right spot

I wasn't sure where to post this but I couldn't create a new thread so I hope this helps someone.

A few months ago I started my 2006 RX8 with only 49k miles, put it in first gear and suddenly all the dash lights came on and I had lost power steering. I turned it off and restarted, hoping it was a "system glitch". It was not. I had it towed to the dealership and they had it for 3 months.

The first issue they found was that the alternator was surging. It should be about 14.5v and it was 18v. They replaced it with a new one and it did the same thing. So they put a 2nd alternator in the car and then started diagnosing NUMEROUS other issues. Apparently when the alternator surged, it caused several fuses to blow and also blew several modules. They started out replacing the self leveling headlight module (not sure why this one is even needed on this car), then the power steering module, then the pcm module (which was still covered under the 8yr warranty) and then the AC module. They replaced all the modules with reman modules because the OEM modules were between $600-$1000 each and the PCM was $1200. I was told the RX8 can't use "used" modules because they are all linked to the VIN and can't be reset (maybe they were lying). Once they thought it was fixed the driver window switch went out and they replaced that for free.

I ended up reporting this to Mazda customer relations because I was frustrated everytime the dealer called to tell me another module needed to be replaced on a 49k mile car which should not have these major issues.

The dealership had discussions with the Mazda tech support folks and finally fixed everything. Mazda chipped in and offered to pay $750 (stating this was a very unique issue) so after 3 months of driving a loaner car and $1200 out of my pocket, I now have my RX8 back. I will let you all know if I start having anymore problems.

I deleted you other posts, please don't spam the forum. 'Not being sure' doesn't mean you have a license to post everywhere. See the announcement in the new owners subforum for why you can't create threads elsewhere yet

Can't use used Module ? HAHA!

Anyway, what exactly were you trying to tell us ?

btw, the VOLTAGE REGULATOR is not in the Alternator on RX8. So replacing it will not fix the overcharging issue, oh man :)

So..... What is the ending to this cliff hanger? Did replacing the main fuse solved your problems?

I did replace the main fuse, i had to Dremal the plastic away and get to the screw i put it on and had issues with the alarm (viper), i fixed that by calling them to reset it, i had no more issues after that, but for good measure i replaced all fuses and mods, and now it runs great. Its just hard to get that screw on the back after you pull the box off, if you have to take it off keep the screw driver in that hole holding it until you can replace the fuse, i would say have a buddy with you when doing it have them hold it in the hole, if you have this issue. While you put the fuse back on.