Go to Autozone, get the code read for free, see what it is, then fix it.

 

I tried that they couldnt read it
And i dont want to pay the dealer 90 dollars

 

Alright.........I'm just trying to help. Don't take offense at this next question, but are you 100% sure it the CEL(check engine light)?
If so............then we will move to the next step. I can't believe Autozone couldn't read it, but I'll take your word for it. Let me know.

 

No man no problem, sorry if i sounded rude

I found a leak in the exhaust where the cat back delete pipes hooks up to the headers, i tried doing the bolts again and i also checked the copper oring gasket and its fine, but i cant get rid of that gap any i deas anyone

 

Well guys i went to a different autozone about 15 minutes away and they were able to read the code it was a P0037, something about low o2

 

Okay...that's the rear o2 sensor. There is a chance that the connector may be loose, but more than likely you will need to replace that sensor. You should go read these two threads, they aren't that long.

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=P0037

and

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=P0037


Dave

 

Hey MAZUFER thanks for all your help it is not the sensor, i have a leak in front before the sensor, where the cat delete and the headers connect, and i need to find something to put on there to stop that

Any IDEAS anyone????

It is about a millimeter

 

why you have to drive easy after ECU reset and not the opposite ?

 

Well having in mind that you keep your 8 stock or current mods how often someone should reset the ECU in order to clear the LTFT? I know that those trims will be built again by the ECU but this time may be different.

So is there a rule of thump for resetting ? I know that if you feel your car sluggish you may think for an ECU reset but this sluggish may be only your feeling.

What do you usually do with reset? You never reset? Reset only if you mod your car and if you feel it performs poor? Any other condition ?

 

sorry not to up with any of this can any of you tech heads help....... my 8 is acting up hard start sometimes and a flat spot in the lower rev's but fine when you get up speed would any of this reset help m'''''''''''':

 

Go have this done if it hasn't been!

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...14-08-1924.pdf

 

interesting thread

 

Just wondering...if I went to the track for a high performance driving course (lapping), and the car PCM learns all those stuff.

But then I install a CAI and reset the PCM using the "Reset mileage-ON-20 brake tabs" method, will the PCM lose everything about what I did in the track?

That would be the suck....

 

OK, OK This is a long and interesring thread, I can say that I learned a lot from it, but I have a question: If you are running catless or even with a high flow cat ( for sure you will have a cell soon ) now if you have that cell, will this cell compromise your engine performance??? yes or no.
can you get rid of it? how? is there a simulator that works?
thank you.
manny

 

There are numerous methods to clear the CEL (read the pages leading up to this)...however clearing the CEL will accomplish nothing if the problem that is causing it is not fixed.

For example, if you got a CEL from a bad batch of gas, chances are you will keep popping the CEL until you run through that batch of gas. If you have a CEL from a leak in the exhaust or intake, then clearing the CEL accomplishes nothing.

The only thing clearing the CEL really accomplishes is seeing if the fix you did corrected the problem, or to see if the problem is 1-shot or re-occuring. And if the CEL is from a 1-time deal, not a reoccuring problem (like driving through a thick cloud of smoke might pop the CEL from bad air), if the car does not see that same problem within a few 'drive cycles' (think 1 cycle is driving to work, another cycle is driving home, etc...), then it will clear the CEL for you, writing it off as a freak occurance. How many cycles it takes for it to clear -most likely- depends on which error caused it, as some errors are more serious than others, and are justified in the system watching for another over a longer period of time.

Disconnecting the battery for a period of time allows the internal capacitors to run dry, and the computer to lose the ability to save variables, so when you reconnect the battery the variables are clear. This includes CELs, ECU fuel mapping, Radio Presets, and stability control calculations, among other things.

This does not include the latest firmware 'Flash'.

The amount of time needed for a complete drain of power from the capacitors can vary from vehicle to vehicle. I generally get success on my 8 from 30-60 seconds. My Protege5 required more like 3 minutes. Pumping the brake with the battery off likely just forces an increased drain on the capacitors, clearing the variables faster. With no power running through the car, I can't see it 'seeing' the brake push as a 'sequence' to take an action, much less having the power to take the action of clearing information.

If you do a complete clear by removing the battery connection, your car still has to rebuild several variables, including the fuel trim mapping as well as the stability control mapping. Since the stability control mapping is not 'complete', your DSC and TC lights will remain lit until they are complete. The systems simply don't have enough information to act on correctly if it is needed, so those systems are disabled until they do. Turning the wheel to it's stops in each direction generally gives the stability control system enough information to work on, and the lights will go off.

I am not sold on 'drive easy' or 'drive hard' after an ECU reset for re-doing the fuel mapping. Theoretically, driving it easy initially should improve gas mileage, but negatively impact maximum performance, and driving it hard should improve performance and negatively impact gas mileage. I don't see how driving easy during an ECU re-mapping of the fuel trim would improve performance, but perhaps it is something unique to rotorys I am not familiar with.

Sidenote:
Reseting the EUC before warmup track run would -probably- improve on track performance after a while, and reseting the ECU and driving easy before a long trip would -probably- improve overall gas mileage. I will have to test this.

So if you are just looking to clear a CEL, then try the other methods first. But if you decide to go the complete reset route, keep in mind that your car's performance, behavior, and responsiveness may change... and not necessarily better or worse.

 

This forum is the best. I have a 2007 Rx8 with only 7700 miles and the CEL came on yesterday as soon as I turned it on. I was just sick about it. Made a very inconvenient appointment with the dealer and in the meantime read a bit on here.

I checked the gas cap, felt a little lose but the CEL did not go away. After reading the reset procedures on here, I decided to give it a try. I reset the NVRAM and KAM but the CEL was still on. So I disconnected the battery (negative only) turned back on and light was gone! So I decided to do one more reset of the KAM and NVRAM and now I will see. If the light comes back, then I know I have something wrong for sure. Thanks again everybody!!!!

 

Has anyone ever confirmed whether this procedure helps or not?
Or if it needs to be tweaked or refined?

(Had a CEL 0456 - Evap - on Sunday. Followed the procedure of disconnecting the battery
and pressing down on the brake last weekend, the CEL went away, but I lost my trims
and the car wanted to stall. The CEL came back on today, so I replaced the gas cap,
and I want to disconnect the battery again to clear the CEL, but I want to get
trims back faster without the danger of stalling.)

So has this procedure been successful?

 

hey hows it going
i know this migth b out of the subject
but
does anyone know what kind of scanner i can use on my rx8???

 

Bought this one the other day...works well on my laptop with Bluetooth..

http://www.obdkey.com/obd_bluetooth_info.asp

Or, you can get it with USB Cabe...

 

There are many, do some searches.
It needs to be CAN bus compatible.

 

I've seen numerous posts where it's been recommended to pull the room fuse to reset the ECU. How does this differ from the processes listed in this thread?

thanks,
Hugh

 

The room fuse powers (among other things) the ECU when the ignition is off.

Pulling it removes the KAM from the computer so, yeah, it is the same as pulling the battery cable.


The difference from the two processes to clear the ECU is that the 'approved processes are from the Mazda Factory Service Manual, and don't require re-setting the radio stations.....

The two FSM processes also clear different parts of the PCM (the odometer reset for the NVRAM; and the Brake-stomp for the KAM).

Hope this answers your question.


EDIT: I stand corrected. See teknics' post following. Thanks!

 

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...45#post2923345

The Odometer button has NOTHING to do with PCM Memory.

If it's in the FSM please tell me the page number so i can inform mazda and it can be properly addressed as i have yet to find it in our version.

kevin.

 

after i reset the NVRAM my 8 will no longer idle, it turns on goes up to about 1,000 rpm then drops to 0 almost instantly any idea what is going on?

 

I'm not asking any questions, just providing advice. So I don't know if this was mentioned earlier since I didn't read all the posts, but, if you have the Nav system, there are 3 different secret menus that can be accessed which will allow you to view the recorded data in various parts of your car's computer systems including GPS, ECU, sensors, etc., and via these menus, you have the ability to delete some of these records.