The dreaded CEL: a P0410
Hi guys,
a total n00b here. I have owned a RX-8 for only 3 days (bought used with 68K miles but a brand new engine) and I am totally loving it, but unfortunately I already had the CEL come on :/ Autozone said it is P0410 - Secondary Air injection system fault. After educating myself some on this forum, I reached the conclusion this is not a serious problem and this could explain why the car seems to be working just fine. However, the forum could not help me understand whether this air pump failure is covered under either the engine or the Fed Emissions 80K miles warranty. Does someone know exactly if it falls under either of those two ? Nevertheless, I am totally in love with my Roxy so I am taking her to the Mazda dealership tomorrow just in case. However, could someone tell me how long I could expect to be there? Say they need to replace this pump, is it feasible for the whole operation to take say 2-3 hours max so I could take the car back home or should I plan on leaving it there? And lastly, if I keep driving with this problem, could this potentially cause more damage ? I could leave the car at home tomorrow, rather than take it to work and only drive it to the dealership later if it is a problem (but oh my god I simply don't want to ever get out of this car :SHOCKED:) Thanks. |
No risk of damaging the car - I have that code on permanently (due to not having and air pump at all ) FWIW
Can't answer the other questions |
I have had this CEL for the past ~6 months no issues
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I've never had that issue myself, but several of my friends have that CEL on.
Just remove the air-pump itself.....it's not really necessary. |
For the first 60 seconds during a cold startup, an electric pump sends secondary air to the exhaust manifold. This promotes earlier light-off of the catalytic converter and earlier combustion of Hydrocarbons and Carbon Monoxide. Fuel quantity and ignition timing are adjusted at this time to help promote these reactions. The dealer may not know what the air pump is for, so tell them it works with the cat. Can't hurt to try. And if you have a mid-pipe installed... don't worry about it. |
Thanks for the feedback guys. It turned out that the fuse has blown. $120 labor for changing a $7 blown fuse :eek: I think next time I'll first try the DIY fixes suggested on this forum before going to the stealer.
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that's what you get for not checking the fuses yourself
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Originally Posted by YellowRocket
(Post 3433904)
Thanks for the feedback guys. It turned out that the fuse has blown. $120 labor for changing a $7 blown fuse :eek: I think next time I'll first try the DIY fixes suggested on this forum before going to the stealer.
On the other hand, as others have said, this pump is not directly related to engine performance nor is the CEL. |
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
(Post 3433931)
The fuse blew because the pump is starting to draw too much current from that circuit. You can expect to see this happen more often on your car because your secondary air pump is probably on it's way out so be sure to keep all your records related to this issue handy. Since it is also a component involved in the entire emissions-management scheme it should be covered under that part of your warranty.
On the other hand, as others have said, this pump is not directly related to engine performance nor is the CEL. You are right Charles. The CEL light came on today again, after only 3-4 starts with it being fine. It was a pretty cold morning so I am 99% sure it is that same fuse again and the reason must be the air pump going bad. I guess i'll have to take the car to the shop again and have them replace it. |
There has been a trend of these air pumps going bad for about 2 months now, maybe a little longer, and it is probably typical at certain ages/model years of cars.
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i got the same code today.. i already unplugged my air pump, and am running catless and cleared the cel with my cobb :)
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Just FYI, to my understanding most of the issues with Code 0410 are not covered by the Fed Emissions warranty for more than 24K miles. Only "substantial elements" are covered up to 80K which are:
* Catalytic converters. * The electronic emissions control unit or computer (ECU). * The onboard emissions diagnostic device or computer (OBD). Does not seem to include air pumps :icon_tdow |
Originally Posted by YellowRocket
(Post 3443681)
Just FYI, to my understanding most of the issues with Code 0410 are not covered by the Fed Emissions warranty for more than 24K miles. Only "substantial elements" are covered up to 80K which are:
* Catalytic converters. * The electronic emissions control unit or computer (ECU). * The onboard emissions diagnostic device or computer (OBD). Does not seem to include air pumps :icon_tdow |
well, checked the fuse and visually it looks fine.. im still going to buy a new one just incase.... if thats not the issue, then a new pump it is..... $465.00 which is total fail.... does anybody now the trick to using the Cobb Access Port for eliminating this particular code? id rather buy the Cobb and do that if possible than replacing the pump itself..... i want to have the Cobb anyway, so might as well use it for what its good for if i can. Any thoughts?
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Originally Posted by ExBMWdrivr
(Post 3545874)
well, checked the fuse and visually it looks fine.. im still going to buy a new one just incase.... if thats not the issue, then a new pump it is..... $465.00 which is total fail.... does anybody now the trick to using the Cobb Access Port for eliminating this particular code? id rather buy the Cobb and do that if possible than replacing the pump itself..... i want to have the Cobb anyway, so might as well use it for what its good for if i can. Any thoughts?
1.$465 is over half the price of a Cobb 2.Cobb does a bunch of cool shit including clearing the CEL 3.Air pump does only one thing and its not even important, plus if you ever go cat-less the air pump is completely useless :beer05: |
consider me on board..... now i just need money for the cobb..... where are some reputable places to get it online? ive founf it for like 490 on rx7store.com..... but if theres a cheaper place... im open to suggestions
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To get the most out of the AccessPort youll want to pay the extra money and get it from Jeff (MazdaManiac)
I took out my cat and air pump and deleted those CEL's through the cobb... been fine ever since.. |
EGR/ check valve cleaning
I posted this in a few other sections
I’m just giving my experience from this P0410 code, in hope to saving someone money. Before buying any new pump or parts make sure you properly diagnose this code. There are a lot of avenues for this code dealing with the secondary air pump. My first task was taking my air pump apart, I live in NY and the winters are cold. My car has 100k on it 75 on the motor after recall. I took the pump apart and I found that the nut holding the fan blade onto the motor had come off. I could see the nut on the bottom vent side at the bottom of the motor. I used a Dremel and made a large enough hole to pull it out and reassembled the pump. Pump was fixed, now I checked my fuse for it and replaced the 60amp yellow fuse as it was blown. i had cleared the code and the P0410 continued to show so now at this point I had been stuck for finding anymore diagnosis on our forum. I did find suggestions on parts but no maintenance or cleaning of the egr valve located directly across from the air pump. This is bound to the air pump with a bigger hose shaped like a “U”. I started to search the P0410 code through google and found a few videos on cleaning the egr or check valves linked to the secondary air pumps. Please note that your air pump may be noticeably louder at start up due to a clogged or dirty egr/check valve. I used 10mm wrench for the two bolts (upside down) under valve and disconnected the “u” shape hose along with the small hose at the back of the Valve. As I removed the valve I noticed the pipe leading to exhaust manifold and the bottom side of the valve were both clogged with residue and gunk. There is also a metal gasket between the two that I had to clean. I used brake parts cleaner and flushed the valve out from the bottom side twice. Then I filled it with brake cleaner and let it sit for about half hour. Flushed it two more times and cleaned out with a rag and small screw driver (carefully) inside. Blew it out with air and reattached everything to the car. This morning it was 8 degrees, I started the car and it was super quiet compared to before. More importantly no P0410 code and I didn’t have to buy a single part |
Originally Posted by epikeddie
(Post 3433143)
I've never had that issue myself, but several of my friends have that CEL on.
Just remove the air-pump itself.....it's not really necessary. |
Update
My pump ended up malfunctioning finally, it must have had moisture or water to make it malfunction which I have read is the case. If you only need the pump to pass emissions and live in a state that requires it for inspection. Here is a nice alternative to spending large amount of money for the Cobb. This aftermarket pump seems to be a nice copy of just unbranded I have had it in my car the last month winter cold no issues and no check engine. $60 and change
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F264215895916 |
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