DIY: RX8 engine removal how-to w/pics
#76
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Thank you so very much for posting this guide. I am almost done with getting my motor out. I have a few questions, mainly because i am nervous about a few things:
AC Pump, any pictures of the bolts i need to take out. I saw the diagram in the shop manual...however I don't want a face full of freeon.
AC Pump, any pictures of the bolts i need to take out. I saw the diagram in the shop manual...however I don't want a face full of freeon.
Transmission, aside from moving the motor down to access the bolts...any further advise for getting that bad boy off. My pry-bars are ready.
I do use a prybar when mating the engine back onto the trans later...line up the clutch splines until they engage and then pry between the subframe/PS rack and the engine lower front corner/front cover gently to seat the engine back onto the trans/dowels so the bolts can be started.
Engine braces that rest on the motor mounts (i think thats the name), I put a 17mm socket on the bolts...but i can't get a solid grip. Might I be picking the wrong bolts? I stopped last night thanks to heat and the effects from fumes...PB Blaster, Coolant, and Fuel take there toll quickly, lol.
#78
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Thanks RR and THP.
Yea i got it off easy. The one thing i still didn't get was the oil line...i need a open wrench bigger than a 19mm thats for damn sure.
Or could i get away with unbolting it right from the block?
If all goes well i'll be back on the road again by tomorrow morning.
Yea i got it off easy. The one thing i still didn't get was the oil line...i need a open wrench bigger than a 19mm thats for damn sure.
Or could i get away with unbolting it right from the block?
If all goes well i'll be back on the road again by tomorrow morning.
Last edited by L337fpc; 07-22-2011 at 01:32 PM.
#79
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Thanks RR and THP.
Yea i got it off easy. The one thing i still didn't get was the oil line...i need a open wrench bigger than a 19mm thats for damn sure.
Or could i get away with unbolting it right from the block?
If all goes well i'll be back on the road again by tomorrow morning.
Yea i got it off easy. The one thing i still didn't get was the oil line...i need a open wrench bigger than a 19mm thats for damn sure.
Or could i get away with unbolting it right from the block?
If all goes well i'll be back on the road again by tomorrow morning.
#81
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RR, this is the best thread. Thanks a ton.
Unfortunately, I now get to go through it again. The new motor I replaced has less than 500 miles on it and it's developed a compression issue. The dealer diagnosed it as a remanufacturing flaw so the replacement engine is free.
Unfortunately, the labor is not. Yeesh...
We have two things going for us. This is now the second time I've done this so I should be quite a bit faster - and, everything is still clean so I can skip that whole cleaning step.
H
Unfortunately, I now get to go through it again. The new motor I replaced has less than 500 miles on it and it's developed a compression issue. The dealer diagnosed it as a remanufacturing flaw so the replacement engine is free.
Unfortunately, the labor is not. Yeesh...
We have two things going for us. This is now the second time I've done this so I should be quite a bit faster - and, everything is still clean so I can skip that whole cleaning step.
H
#82
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Check it! Time Lapse video of the procedure. Sorry it's so quick. This was my first try and I set the interval to be too slow.
http://youtu.be/9xnE9IkNNS4
Here's the tear down. This was the second try. I think it's better.
http://youtu.be/yKwWS2tiBVs
Wish it really went this fast.
Hal
http://youtu.be/9xnE9IkNNS4
Here's the tear down. This was the second try. I think it's better.
http://youtu.be/yKwWS2tiBVs
Wish it really went this fast.
Hal
#83
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This write up was a great help. I took about an hour to convert it into a Microsoft word format that I could print and place in clear sleeves within a binder. Having that binder right there while doing with work was much less risky than having a laptop. So if anyone else likes to work like this, I've got the file to email you.
I tried to attach it but the site is saying the file is too large. Moderators let me know if this is something you can work out. I can email it to you.
Thanks! ALSO new engine in and car running great!
I tried to attach it but the site is saying the file is too large. Moderators let me know if this is something you can work out. I can email it to you.
Thanks! ALSO new engine in and car running great!
#85
Just wanted to say a big thanks to RotaryResurrection and MazdaManiac. Got my core out on Thursday and dropped it off at a shop here in Colorado for a rebuild.
Never could have done it without this thread. I've never removed an engine in my life. These instructions were a HUGE help.
Never could have done it without this thread. I've never removed an engine in my life. These instructions were a HUGE help.
#86
Is there a list of parts that are considered mandatory to replace when installing the rebuilt engine?
I have searched a ton and all I have found so far are:
motor mounts
all gaskets
O ring (that RR mentions in the OP)
Can anyone provide any insight on this?
I have searched a ton and all I have found so far are:
motor mounts
all gaskets
O ring (that RR mentions in the OP)
Can anyone provide any insight on this?
#88
Thanks for the reply. I will definitely make sure the shop doing the rebuild (Precision Import Repair in Denver) is replacing the corner and side seals. They told me they're doing the Apex seals already.
I should have clarified that I am only doing the installation once the rebuild is complete. I'm looking for a list of parts I'm going to need to purchase when I install the rebuilt engine. I understand some of this might be subjective. I am curious what the people more experienced than myself would recommend.
I should have clarified that I am only doing the installation once the rebuild is complete. I'm looking for a list of parts I'm going to need to purchase when I install the rebuilt engine. I understand some of this might be subjective. I am curious what the people more experienced than myself would recommend.
#89
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This write up was a great help. I took about an hour to convert it into a Microsoft word format that I could print and place in clear sleeves within a binder. Having that binder right there while doing with work was much less risky than having a laptop. So if anyone else likes to work like this, I've got the file to email you.
I tried to attach it but the site is saying the file is too large. Moderators let me know if this is something you can work out. I can email it to you.
Thanks! ALSO new engine in and car running great!
I tried to attach it but the site is saying the file is too large. Moderators let me know if this is something you can work out. I can email it to you.
Thanks! ALSO new engine in and car running great!
#91
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Thanks for the reply. I will definitely make sure the shop doing the rebuild (Precision Import Repair in Denver) is replacing the corner and side seals. They told me they're doing the Apex seals already.
I should have clarified that I am only doing the installation once the rebuild is complete. I'm looking for a list of parts I'm going to need to purchase when I install the rebuilt engine. I understand some of this might be subjective. I am curious what the people more experienced than myself would recommend.
I should have clarified that I am only doing the installation once the rebuild is complete. I'm looking for a list of parts I'm going to need to purchase when I install the rebuilt engine. I understand some of this might be subjective. I am curious what the people more experienced than myself would recommend.
The clutch (for MT owners) is the only really "you'd be dumb not to replace it now" part to worry about. Everything else is fairly easy to change at a later time (water pump, coils, motor mounts, etc.).
#92
Thanks for the tips about the motor mounts & the clutch. My clutch was replaced at 80k and my engine died at 105k.
#93
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I am in the middle of doing this as we speak. I am having a hell of a time trying to get the upper trans bolts off. im using multiple extensions, of different sizes and u-joint. But i still cant find the magin angle to get them off, i have the one bolt behind the slave line off, but cant get what i assume to be two more bolts towards the passenger side off or even get into a position that would make it possible... any suggestions?
#95
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I am in the middle of doing this as we speak. I am having a hell of a time trying to get the upper trans bolts off. im using multiple extensions, of different sizes and u-joint. But i still cant find the magin angle to get them off, i have the one bolt behind the slave line off, but cant get what i assume to be two more bolts towards the passenger side off or even get into a position that would make it possible... any suggestions?
#97
I am in the middle of doing this as we speak. I am having a hell of a time trying to get the upper trans bolts off. im using multiple extensions, of different sizes and u-joint. But i still cant find the magin angle to get them off, i have the one bolt behind the slave line off, but cant get what i assume to be two more bolts towards the passenger side off or even get into a position that would make it possible... any suggestions?
#98
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i've just about run out of all my options with the swivel joints and extensions. So I will try removing the UIM and see how that works out. Keep you guys posted. And RR you are a god for this write up, saved me a ton of money and hassle... well more money then hassle but you get the idea haha.