Chris Hutchison

I have an 04' Rx-8 and it has been down for a few monthes due to a bad throttlebody. I replaced the throttlebody yesterday, changed the oil, deflooded the car (just in case it was flooded) and cleaned the plugs. I didn't think i would have to replace the spark plugs because they have only about 5,000 miles on them at the very most. I noticed various scuffs and dents in the top of the plugs!! Then after taking them out for the second time, i notice what looks to be either oil/gas or carbon/gas coming from the spark plug holes (keep in mind that i had just changed the oil right before and the stuff that looked like oil was black). So i crank on it a few times without the plugs in to spray out the junk, put the plugs back in, and still no start. It really tried to fire a few times, but just wouldn't. Any Ideas?!?

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

scuffs / dents on top of plugs??

get a compression test....hate to think that a chunk of a seal is floating around in there.

Chris Hutchison

Ill try the compression test. Thanks

Chris Hutchison

Will flushing out the spark plug reservoir help any? Besides a compression test, i was going to try and clean out the reservoir with either carb cleaner or ether. Let that sit for maybe 15 minutes, crank on the engine to spray it all back out, then put in new plugs and wires. I haven't heard any engine knocking, so hopefully i can rule out loose seals floating around in the engine (I hope i can rule that out).

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

you could surely give it a shot, but before spending money on coils and plugs i would personally get a compression test. Although you dont hear a noise, that doesn't mean that the engine is holding compression. For all you know you chipped an apex seal, it tore through the combustion process and blew out the exhaust.

Unless you are overreacting about the scuffs or dents on the spark plugs, or confusing it with a non uniform coating of carbon, there really should never be anything going through an engine that could cause any sort of impact or damage to components.

Changing plugs and coils could help, but may only mask the problem as the stronger ignition would help hide poor compression for a while.

Chris Hutchison

I finally checked the compression and both cylinders were at 90lbs. After cleaning up the spark plugs, and spraying ether into the ports, it finally fired up. Smoked real bad for about
15 minutes. The exitement didn't last long though. Soon as i let off the gas it died. When i tried starting it again the plugs were fouled. I don't understand why it would foul the plugs so fast. I plan on replacing the coil packs, plugs, and wires. If that doesn't fix it, then I don't really know what else to do.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

you dont check compression that way. You need the compression value at each face of a rotor, and preferably from a rotary specific compression tester. Each should be at least 80psi at 250rpm

regardless, coil pack replacement sounds like a good idea, and just to be sure you do have the correct spark plugs right?

Chris Hutchison

NGK Iridium. Trailing and Leading plugs, and they are in the correct places.

Chris Hutchison

This is before the new spark plugs, wires, and coils.

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Chris Hutchison

Not real sure what to do about the ole rx8 anymore. Compression check was good, changed out the spark plugs, wires, and coils yesterday. The original coils were in really bad shape. Im glad i got new ones on it. It started right up. Sounded good at idle. Got it to the end of the driveway and it died. Didn't think to much of it because it started up right after and stayed at idle again. I drove it around a bit and it started trying to die on me again, and kept doing it. After I got it back home it would not stay started. It will start right up, but won't stay that way unless you keep the RPM's up. I am about ready for some gas and a lighter.

Cliffjumper126

Idle stalling could be a dirty MAF or ESS. I would start there

Chris Hutchison

Thanks. I'll start at the MAF. The ESS is a nightmare to even get to.

Cliffjumper126

Oh it's not that bad. It's much easier to get to from under the car....you just need a jack/stands. You could just use a rag to clean it from underneath, or you could remove it to clean it. I believe it's a 10mm bolt that holds it in its bracket. And if cleaning the MAF and ESS doesn't help, you could try replacing the MAF. They're ~$100 at advance auto. I replaced another member's back in september because she was having issues just like yours. We figured out what it was because I swapped our MAFs and my car started stalling. Cleaning it didn't help because it was actually failing (rare, they usually are just dirty) If there's no one you can swap with, then you may just have to replace it.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Get a real compression test

Chris Hutchison

I performed a "REAL" compression test. You don't have to be a licensed mechanic to know how to run a compression test. Maybe some people on the forum aren't as mechanically inclined as others. I think I have done a pretty good job of getting my car back on the road myself. I have a faulty front O2/Air Fuel ration sensor, besides the other **** that I have already fixed. After that, she should be back in decent running condition.

Chris Hutchison

Just replaced the A/F ratio sensor yesterday. The car will run without dying now, but takes way to long to start. When it finally does start the idle is very rough until i give it a little gas and it clears up after a few seconds. Another problem is an RPM problem. I noticed the RPM at almost 5000 while in 6th gear. I was going 90 on the dot. Is this normal????

Bladecutter

Can you list out, all in one post, what all you've done to your car so far?
I can't keep track of all your stuff done to try and rectify your problems.

And 5k at 90 mph could be fine, or could be high.
Is your car an automatic or a manual?

I know my 2011 would be around 4600 at 90, but it has different gearing in the transmission and rear end compared to your car, whatever it is.

BC.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

There is a machine which measures compression on each face of the rotor, it costs $3000 iirc.

A piston compression tester will not read accurately. However it will give you false hope, which you now seem to be clenching onto now.

Get you car down to the dealer pay the $150 and get it tested.