Diff removal
 

OK Blew the rear racing this weekend. Anyone remove a differential.

• Any special tools needed?
• Can it be done with the car on jack stands?
• Can I remove the diff cover with the rear in place?

No special tools and not that difficult to remove, but you have to diassemble most of the suspension arms loose of the rear upright in order for it to move/tilt out far enough for the axles to clear out of the diff housing. It doesn’t seem like there’s enough space from the subframe to pull the diff cover off without dropping it, but I never tried to do it. Even if you get it off there’s not enough room to get anything internal out. I’d say it needs to come out regardless.

I have a low mileage factory S1 lsd (maybe 15k miles from my personal RX8 bought new) if you end up needing one.

i have a complete rear in the subframe for sale. the shocks and struts and swaybar are off it tho

You don't need special tools, but like team said u need to remove most of the arms out before you can drop it

and you can't get any internals out with it on the car, but seriously, why would 1 wants to do that ? take it out , it's much faster, and u gotta bang the stuff to get it out anyway, u can't do that when it's on the car.

trust me, it's not pretty, and it's not average DIYer job, I rather swap clutches than dropping the LSD

I agree not an easy project with jack stands and lying on a concrete fall. Started this weekend but ran into a problem. I removed all the arms, but I can not remove the rear adjusting camber arm. I removed the nut off the bolt but I am unable to turn the bolt. This is on both sides. I tried prying the clamp a little and banging with a rubber hammer. I still can not get the joint pin out. I am wondering if the joint pin slotted but I hate use heat or sledge hammer to remove the retaining bolt. See attached photo. Any feed back would be appreciated

That’s the tierod end, not a camber arm. It does have a capture-groove that won’t let it drop out until the bolt comes out. The bolt has knurls on the head end of the shaft. If it won’t hammer out then get a c-clamp, put the nut on the threaded end and a socket on the head end, then put the c-clamp on and force it out.

Edit: just making sure it’s clear that the socket has to be large enough to let the bolt head slide through for the c-clamp to force it out.


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you can just swap in my entire assembly

If you decide to rebuild yours let me know if you need this factory original Tochigi-Fuji LSD


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...75806cc59.jpeg

I'm finishing up the installation of power Plant frame and I noticed the previous owner ran the car without front and rear tunnel is this acceptable???
I can't see how. I guess it's time to do a search for parts.

What does “without front or rear tunnel” even mean?

parts number 6 & 7 in the diagram

Yes, those “tunnel braces” add structural stiffness to the chassis and are highly recommended, especially for a track car. Plus you need the front one in order to position the PPF correctly.

ill look when i get home, i doubt it but i may have them

I bought a new front one recently and was surprised to see that it came with the bolt for setting the PPF. Was pretty sure I had bought one or two before and it fidn’t have the bolt. They’re pretty easy to tear up on a lowered car going in/out of the trailer etc. So at the very least I have a front one I can give you and there might be a rear one around if you want to try and straighten them out?

checked this morning and mine must have went to the scrap yard with my cars shell. sorry

Thanks appreciate the effort

np, im sure you can find them cheap in another part out thread

I only have an extra front one and will get that shipped out today.

Thanks for your help greatly appreciated.