going back to square one again. god.

what does that "banned" under your name means ? :cwm27:

Ok! Good! Great! Follow the manual!

Stop bothering us non-manual following people. Until you develop a sense of logic, reasoning, and understanding of the differences between synthetic oils and non-synthetics, along with an understanding of how engine oils work, then you can come back and preach to us. So far you've shown none of the above, as you point to the manual for all answers.

Most likely, I left out the "I believe". I was winging it more based off what I've seen other people who've been involved in the engine details long enough actually working on them.

Well thanks for the clarity.

Actually it's not, just the second sentence of that one paragraph you quoted. Stick with the details.

Hey guys, anyone using Eneos Oil? I'm looking at getting some 0-50. Whats the word?

I PM'd Flashwing about getting some through BHR but I never got a quote. I was trying to find out if it came in jugs.

This isn't correct. Let me clarify what we've learned on the forum.

04-08 only has two oil injection ports at the corners of the rotors. There is evidence of wearing in the middle of the apex seal. The '09 model and above have a third oil injection port at the middle of the apex seal. This has nothing to do with synthetic or the weight of the oil. It has to do with not getting enough oil on the wear surfaces of the rotor housings. The only current solution for this is premixing. You can search on this term to get more information.

The evidence we have that the 5-20 is not sufficient is based on few tear downs of some of the rx8s that showed pre-mature bearing surface wear for the e-shaft bearings. From this we're extrapolating that heavier weight oil or synthetic oil will protect the bearing surfaces better than the recommended dino 5-20. Whether or not this is true has yet to be proven out. But it's clear the 5-20 oil is not creating the film strength needed to protect the e-shaft bearings.

Dino vs. synth has nothing to do with the seals wearing prematurely though.

Cool, Its time for a oil change and I'm thinking of picking up some Eneos 0-50 or some Castrol 0-50.

Similar topic and probably been asked on numerous occasions before but just to clarify.
I live in Thailand and own a RX8 09 import from Japan. Just had a oil change at 5K km which the garage used Mobil 1 10W/40 is this a recommended oil?

for your area, I would use 20w50 no questions asked.

or just use Straight grade 40wt or 50wt oil.

Quick question regarding the Sohn adaptor; when you say that you use it with 2-stroke, I'm assuming you mean non-diluted oil and not premix, is that right?

2 stroke = premix.

Its for motorcycle use. Cuz Motorcycle has no room for engine oil, So they add a 2 stroke/premix into gas b4 they fill it up.

Some call it 2 stroke oil, some say 2 cycle oil, some just call them premix. Its all same thing.

Okay, so when a 2-stroke bottle lists a ratio on the bottle, like Amsoil Pro, is that the recommendation for how to mix with gas based on the density or viscosity of the premix; i.e. - a 50:1 contains more (or thicker) oil in the same amount of solution as a 100:1 premix? Sorry, I know it's drifting OT.

I'm sure this has already been discussed somewhere in this post but the 09 owner's manual says no synthetic or synthetic blend that it will cause hard starting.

You have a working OMP/MOP. so I would say 150:1 is enough.

Im also sure that you did not perform all your work at Mazda dealer, which is what your manual recommend.

dont start when you dont know what you're talking about.

It has been discussed. What it atually says, iirc, is that "...starting performance could worsen..." (emphasis added).

yes,

if you attach he sohn adapter to the omp direct.. you put the 2 stroke oil in right from the bottle..

beers :beer:

Spirograph - the ratio (50:1 for instance) means fifty parts gasoline to one part oil.

So for 100:1 you would mix 50 liters of gas (≈one tankful) with 500 cc's of oil (≈one pint)

Most recommendations for a healthy RX-8 dose, is between 100:1 and 200:1

S

However, that ratio on the bottle is for a 2-stroke engine that needs oil to lubricate the bottom end bearings as well as the piston/rings, etc, so as above you'll be OK with a lower mix, I use 125:1

Spirograph - I use Amsoil Saber Pro and mix 5oz per fill up on most days. My fillups tend to be about 13.5 gallons so the ratio is about 340:1. I have an excel spreadsheet that i use to track my mileage and created a column that computes the premix ratio based on the gallons. Just an FYI - road trip with 5w20 and no premix (car was brand new) = 17.71 mpg. Road trip with Amsoil Premium Protection 10w40 and premix = 19.6 mpg. This was interstate and turnpikes traveling at 75+ mph so going to a heavier weight oil did not affect my mpg at all. I will add that these 2 trips occurred with the same conditions, cool temps, no air conditioning, etc.

Just to clarify - 2 cycle oil label reads:
"Amsoil Saber Professional 100:1 Pre-Mix"
This is the oil recommended for small 2 cycle engines used in chain saws, blowers, snowmobiles, etc. This is NOT outboard motor oil!

So I was at Autozone the other day and seen they have Synthetic Mobil1 0w-40 euro blend? anyone using that?

my engine blew from that oil

Can you explain in detail? :icon5:

Yeah people have switched to Synthetic with no issues. How many miles did you have when you switched and how many miles did you use it for?

Come on man don't post bullshit like that.