Cooling mods yet high temps.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...49499d15b2.png
Hi So i put foam around the top, right, and bottom of my rad, cooling low fan mod, and I'm still seeing high engine coolant temps with obd2. it's currently 89 degrees but 90's are the norm. New radiator and coolant bottle came with the car. New mishimoto fans. New cooling hoses 04 mt 6sp |
This is going to be a really silly suggestion, but are the new fans blowing air in the correction direction, into the engine bay?
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whats your oil temp read at?
and when you say cooling fan mod are you talking about the relay hack job or an ecu tune? what coolant did you use? what brand rad? was the t-stat touched? is obd2 the only means you have of reading coolant temp? |
Originally Posted by Loki
(Post 4873504)
This is going to be a really silly suggestion, but are the new fans blowing air in the correction direction, into the engine bay?
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Originally Posted by sonicsdaman
(Post 4873508)
whats your oil temp read at?
and when you say cooling fan mod are you talking about the relay hack job or an ecu tune? what coolant did you use? what brand rad? was the t-stat touched? is obd2 the only means you have of reading coolant temp? oem rad i never changed thermostat thermostats i don't recall anyway only obd |
make sure you didn't swap the relays the wrong way and that they only turn on when the high temp should be on. I personally don't like or trust the relay hack.
also I don't know much about the mishimoto fans or if they have better or worst cfm number but why did you need to swap out from oem? FAL fans would have been my choice have you done a system pressure test? did you burp the system? are you missing any of the plastic around the rad? do you have the AC on? |
Originally Posted by sonicsdaman
(Post 4873514)
make sure you didn't swap the relays the wrong way and that they only turn on when the high temp should be on. I personally don't like or trust the relay hack.
also I don't know much about the mishimoto fans or if they have better or worst cfm number but why did you need to swap out from oem? FAL fans would have been my choice have you done a system pressure test? did you burp the system? are you missing any of the plastic around the rad? do you have the AC on? relay for fan 1 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmfs-rx8-04 1800-1899cfm Oem secondary fan died No pressure test Didn't burp according to the manual, used the heater and top off method plastic? Underbody tray is there, oil coolers vented, I used foam pipe insulation |
Originally Posted by sonicsdaman
(Post 4873508)
whats your oil temp?
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Is your fan shroud sitting hard up against the radiator ? If there is a gap you lose a heap of efficiency .
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those "upgraded" fans are either not up to snuff. they shroud around the fans isn't properly seated on the rad letting air past. you have a blockage somewhere in the coolant system(t-stat stuck maybe?) or an air bubble. or something is wrong with the relay mod.
my oem fans would keep the car under 215 with the ac on in 95f temp |
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4873522)
Is your fan shroud sitting hard up against the radiator ? If there is a gap you lose a heap of efficiency .
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Originally Posted by sonicsdaman
(Post 4873524)
those "upgraded" fans are either not up to snuff. they shroud around the fans isn't properly seated on the rad letting air past. you have a blockage somewhere in the coolant system(t-stat stuck maybe?) or an air bubble. or something is wrong with the relay mod.
my oem fans would keep the car under 215 with the ac on in 95f temp As far as air, the tbody burping method involves using your bare hands to attach a hose spewing scalding hot "coolant" right? my fan mod i used this method |
I've refilled an rx8 from bone dry a dozen times maybe . By far and away the best way to do it is to remove the top hose coming from the heater . Then just fill her up while giving the main hose to the thermostat a squeeze every now and then .When you have header tank so you can't get anymore in it , reconnect heater hose ...go for a drive around the block (till up to temp) with heater on . Recheck level when you get back and .....done !
It really is that simple ...no burping ,and none of the pissing about BS that I see on here ! |
I would definitely get the Mishimoto thermostat. I actually run my REW swap on original 14 year old fans and in Florida, and I have no flash or hack cooling mods. When I sit at stop lights for extended periods of time, temps will hit 215 (high speed mode slowly gets me back below 210). Once I get driving, due to the lower opening thermostat, temps will drop as low as 170. Usually though I hover around 185-190. I do idle at about 1,800-2,000 RPMs so that doesn't help either.
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Thermostats don't do a damned thing if your coolant temps are already over ~200°F.
~200°F is a perfectly acceptable temperature. Hell, seeing peaks of 220°F are fine. My OE thermostat hovers around 175°F during the winter. 5°F is almost meaningless when you're below 220*°F. Don't bother with an aftermarket thermostat. |
Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt
(Post 4873617)
I would definitely get the Mishimoto thermostat. I actually run my REW swap on original 14 year old fans and in Florida, and I have no flash or hack cooling mods. When I sit at stop lights for extended periods of time, temps will hit 215 (high speed mode slowly gets me back below 210). Once I get driving, due to the lower opening thermostat, temps will drop as low as 170. Usually though I hover around 185-190. I do idle at about 1,800-2,000 RPMs so that doesn't help either.
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Originally Posted by NotAPreppie
(Post 4873618)
Thermostats don't do a damned thing if your coolant temps are already over ~200°F.
~200°F is a perfectly acceptable temperature. Hell, seeing peaks of 220°F are fine. My OE thermostat hovers around 175°F during the winter. 5°F is almost meaningless when you're below 220*°F. Don't bother with an aftermarket thermostat. I have even logged vertical intercooler and stock thermostat vs horizontal intercooler and Mishimoto thermostat a few days apart in the same temperature. Forget the first data points as the car was just idling in my driveway. You can easily see my driving around temps were considerably lower. Again this is only driving around temp, it will not help you in rush hour or stop and go traffic. I use my AC in the summer and not much in the winter. I also don't think you can use Chicago winters as a go by to test a "cooling" system. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e6294c286e.jpg |
Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt
(Post 4873624)
If you are driving around and getting air to the radiator and your car stays above 200 then I agree a thermostat won't help you much. But if you are driving around and the car cools enough to begin shutting the thermostat then it will help.
Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt
(Post 4873624)
I have even logged vertical intercooler and stock thermostat vs horizontal intercooler and Mishimoto thermostat a few days apart in the same temperature. Forget the first data points as the car was just idling in my driveway.
You can easily see my driving around temps were considerably lower. Again this is only driving around temp, it will not help you in rush hour or stop and go traffic. I use my AC in the summer and not much in the winter. The plural of "anecdote" is not "evidence". There are no experimental controls. There are no variables addressed. Also, even if there were, there's no guarantee that the model that you're trying to extrapolate out to NA situations will even apply since your setup is significantly different from anybody that isn't turbocharged.
Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt
(Post 4873624)
I also don't think you can use Chicago winters as a go by to test a "cooling" system.
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You've won me over, thermostats don't work. :)
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Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt
(Post 4873624)
I have even logged vertical intercooler and stock thermostat vs horizontal intercooler and Mishimoto thermostat a few days apart in the same temperature. Forget the first data points as the car was just idling in my driveway. You can easily see my driving around temps were considerably lower. Again this is only driving around temp, it will not help you in rush hour or stop and go traffic. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e6294c286e.jpg |
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4873670)
The v mount looks pretty good ! ............ with the FMIC did you have a big IC blocking the rad all the way down to the undertray ?
So I moved the intercooler to horizontal/flat replacing the undertray and changed to a Mishimoto thermostat. I run it like this now. As you would expect, you sacrifice air temp for water temp. Driving around with water temps of 200-210 were reduced to 180-185. |
Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt
(Post 4873672)
This is like 2-3 year old graph, but yes the front mount was blocking the radiator.
So I moved the intercooler to horizontal/flat replacing the undertray and changed to a Mishimoto thermostat. I run it like this now. As you would expect, you sacrifice air temp for water temp. Driving around with water temps of 200-210 were reduced to 180-185. |
Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt
(Post 4873669)
you've won me over, thermostats don't work. :)
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is 212F considered ok ?
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Originally Posted by Sydo
(Post 4873687)
is 212F considered ok ?
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Can low temperatures also be bad?
My rx8 was reaching consistent temperatures up to 210F... I ended up buying an all aluminum radiator thinking it was the old radiators fault but temps remained the same. I then purchased a relay fan kit from rotaryperformance that activates both fans at full speed at around 180F. Now my problem is that temps might be a little to low :/ my temp gauges when cruising read around (178-185)F coolant & (165-180)F for oil temps.
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Originally Posted by JOSUU410
(Post 4876085)
My rx8 was reaching consistent temperatures up to 210F... I ended up buying an all aluminum radiator thinking it was the old radiators fault but temps remained the same. I then purchased a relay fan kit from rotaryperformance that activates both fans at full speed at around 180F. Now my problem is that temps might be a little to low :/ my temp gauges when cruising read around (178-185)F coolant & (165-180)F for oil temps.
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The thermostat controls how low coolant temperature can go. So that coolant temp sounds fine.
Oil temp is in the right ballpark for cruising, but either way, there is nothing (advisable) you can do to change it. |
Originally Posted by Loki
(Post 4876094)
The thermostat controls how low coolant temperature can go. So that coolant temp sounds fine.
Oil temp is in the right ballpark for cruising, but either way, there is nothing (advisable) you can do to change it. |
Lets also cover something that hasnt yet been said....
If I understand and follow correctly, you Kamal said you hadnt changed your thermostat. You JUST had your motor rebuilt. You shouldve replaced that thermostat when you went did the rebuild, especially since an older worn thermostat can stick and cause issues regulating engine temperature. Stop driving the car and replace the thermostat NOW. All the cooling mods in the world wont save your motor if your thermostat isnt operating properly and doesnt allow coolant to reach the radiator. I think all of us can agree on that. Let us know what you find after you replace that. |
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4876089)
Yes ... temps that are too low can be bad ..... hard to know where the cutoff line is ...but I reckon the guys at Mazda probably had more idea on this than anyone here .....
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Actually, thicker oil can maintain higher oil temp.
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Originally Posted by Kamal El
(Post 4873503)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...49499d15b2.png
Hi So i put foam around the top, right, and bottom of my rad, cooling low fan mod, and I'm still seeing high engine coolant temps with obd2. it's currently 89 degrees but 90's are the norm. New radiator and coolant bottle came with the car. New mishimoto fans. New cooling hoses 04 mt 6sp |
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