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-   -   Complete engine teardown to bare shortblock how-to with pictures (https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/complete-engine-teardown-bare-shortblock-how-pictures-178945/)

RotaryResurrection 06-14-2010 04:09 PM


Originally Posted by king angels (Post 3597508)
Best advice if you are on a budget low miles van at junk yard but if u want take too machine shop complete head work about 250-325 but first just have the junk yards heads checked if bad take back with your findings in writing from shop they will replace them no charge 75 % of the time there okay.

No gym for home, work out floor with 30, but is it for 20 like 30 lb when you no lift it to be for men, for 30 lbs instead? or half is 10 for 20 pounds?

UMM HOW i word this... ok u take 20 lbs no lifting for 30lb if guy, so divide 2 u dont sit, u get 10 but for guy it no 30, so 20 would be for guy if u werent a girl ?

THEN WHO WAS PHONE

shadycrew31 06-14-2010 05:02 PM

I cant stop laughing!! Due to recent happeneings with the car and life, its a much needed laugh.

RotaryResurrection 06-15-2010 07:10 PM


Originally Posted by Nemesis8 (Post 3449956)
I would so purchase a bolt kit for all the bolts used in this tear-down, if it was available. It would be awesome to have a set in a bag labeled for what they are.

I have a project I could use them on. ;)

This is not like an LS1 where most of the bolts are torque to yeild and can only be used once. These bolts are torqued very little (with exception of flywheel and front hub) and can be reused repeatedly without issue. And, mazda RAPES on parts, even the cost of bolts and nuts. I mean, each of the little bolts is probably a dollar or 2. The big ones like tension bolts, no telling how much those things are.

Basically there are plenty of areas to focus your attention on regarding part replacement with this engine, and the bolts aren't one of them.

wcs 06-15-2010 07:44 PM

Great work RR ... Thanks for helping me get my learn on.

cody205 08-25-2010 02:36 PM


Originally Posted by wcs (Post 3601425)
Great work RR ... Thanks for helping me get my learn on.

:( I stripped a nut coming off of the exhaust manifold. and I don't know what to do!

Help me get my learrn on.

shadycrew31 08-25-2010 03:42 PM

How did you strip it? Try using a stud extractor. If you stripped the hole get a tap and die set.

cody205 08-25-2010 07:48 PM


Originally Posted by shadycrew31 (Post 3688162)
How did you strip it? Try using a stud extractor. If you stripped the hole get a tap and die set.

I just used the 14mm socket and the edges of the nut are stripped. I CANNOT get it off. Does anybody sell those studs, and nuts? I couldn't find em on mazdatrix.

avanti_racing08 08-25-2010 08:13 PM

Dealer???? they shouldnt be that bad for price and use a wrench and or a universal w/ the socket it wont strip the nut and you can get it off better

RotaryResurrection 08-26-2010 12:10 AM


Originally Posted by cody205 (Post 3688551)
I just used the 14mm socket and the edges of the nut are stripped. I CANNOT get it off. Does anybody sell those studs, and nuts? I couldn't find em on mazdatrix.

GO to sears, buy a stud remover kit and that will take it off. Might try lubricating it beforehand or using a propane torch to heat the stud.

I have some of the studs and nuts laying around if you need, or you can buy them new individually from mazda...check with ray at malloy mazda, hmkparts@aol.com

cody205 08-28-2010 08:58 AM

Okay. I Used a BOSCH Bolt Extractor socket set to take the nut off. That socket+17 in Breaker bar=EASIEST thing I've done in my life.

shadycrew31 08-28-2010 11:52 AM

Atta boy.

cody205 08-28-2010 03:49 PM


Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection (Post 3688797)
GO to sears, buy a stud remover kit and that will take it off. Might try lubricating it beforehand or using a propane torch to heat the stud.

I have some of the studs and nuts laying around if you need, or you can buy them new individually from mazda...check with ray at malloy mazda, hmkparts@aol.com

Mazda says that there is two different kinds of studs/nuts. One kind for the two in the rear and one kind for the other four. I just have to make time to go down there, and check em out.

They want $3 EACH per stud for the two. and $16 EACH for the other 4. I think I'll go with you, rr.

spkx714 09-17-2010 08:10 AM

Thanks for the pics.

ASH8 01-16-2011 04:05 AM

Great Thread Kevin, Thanks...

Got one of those cherry picker hoists years ago, great value and VERY handy, ever tried a 2 ton lift ?...

Notice the Oil Injector line Banjo Fittings are Brass, are ALL Series 1 Renesis brass??, I know there is only one Part Number listing...so I guess they are.

Series 2 EMOP line banjo's are alloy with No check or one way valve inside...I guess the Series 1's have to be brass because of the check valve inside banjo?

The six S2 lines are way shorter, each are different melded shape but only about 6 inches long each.

Not_Hans_Stuck 06-05-2011 07:59 PM

...

Not_Hans_Stuck 06-19-2011 10:12 AM

Hi,

does anyone have any ideas about how to pull a permanently stuck intake manifold?

I'm swapping the motor in a friends RX8.

I can't seem to figure out how to get a puller on it. I've also tried rigging up something with my portapower but I can't get a good hold on it anywhere and my expander attachment is broken.

I'm at a loss. Anybody have anything creative?

Thanks.

H

shadycrew31 06-19-2011 10:41 AM

what? the manifold should not be stuck make sure you pulled every bolt off. I guarantee you are missing one.

dannobre 06-19-2011 10:47 AM

If you have removed all of the bolts...the APV barrels may be so carboned up that the manifold won't pull out. DO NOT pull hard on it or you will break the mounting tabs off

Usually there will be some in/out movement with this though....so it should move a bit..otherwise look for a bolt :)

I had one like this on an engine I had...it took a lot of carb cleaner and time to carefully get it out

Otherwise you will need a new LIM :(

Not_Hans_Stuck 06-19-2011 01:44 PM

Thanks. I counted 6 bolts, I think. It's sitting in carb cleaner right now. And will probably stay that way until next weekend at this point.

The flywheel bolt is odd. It looks like a 55mm. Guess I'll have to chase down the snapon guy tomorrow for that one. And it's not staked or pinned or anything. Weird.

H


Originally Posted by dannobre (Post 4008804)
If you have removed all of the bolts...the APV barrels may be so carboned up that the manifold won't pull out. DO NOT pull hard on it or you will break the mounting tabs off

Usually there will be some in/out movement with this though....so it should move a bit..otherwise look for a bolt :)

I had one like this on an engine I had...it took a lot of carb cleaner and time to carefully get it out

Otherwise you will need a new LIM :(


shadycrew31 06-20-2011 01:22 AM

Its on with about 450 ft lbs and I used a 2 1/8" not sure if its 55 mm or 56mm

Not_Hans_Stuck 06-20-2011 09:05 AM

Thank you, sir! I sourced a Craftsman 2 1/8" socket from the local Sears store yesterday. It fits perfectly. My impact gun, on the other hand, was completely impotent.

I have a friend that owns every snapon tool ever made since he was sponsored by them for two race seasons. We'll see what he has up his sleeve. I want to take it off with an impact gun so I don't have to worry about holding the flywheel. And, I don't have this engine on a stand, either. I'm doing this bubba style. Well, not really. The full bubba would require to move it outside onto the front lawn. ;)

H


Originally Posted by shadycrew31 (Post 4009272)
Its on with about 450 ft lbs and I used a 2 1/8" not sure if its 55 mm or 56mm


shadycrew31 06-20-2011 10:53 AM

I bought the stand adapter from mazdatrix it was totally worth it. if you are just breaking it down to send to a builder than its not worth it.

This is how we got the rear nut off.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1607055_n.jpg

and this is how we got he front bolt off.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7207588_n.jpg

Not_Hans_Stuck 06-20-2011 12:39 PM


Originally Posted by shadycrew31 (Post 4009514)
I bought the stand adapter from mazdatrix it was totally worth it. if you are just breaking it down to send to a builder than its not worth it.

This is how we got the rear nut off.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1607055_n.jpg

and this is how we got he front bolt off.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7207588_n.jpg

Yeah. The owner bought a Mazda crate motor. It's his wife's car.

nycgps 06-20-2011 01:15 PM

factory use Loctite on the nut, so to break it easy , just heat the nut with propane torch, the nut ONLY, for maybe 3-5 minutes, then u can take it out easy.

shadycrew31 06-20-2011 01:17 PM


Originally Posted by Not_Hans_Stuck (Post 4009641)
Yeah. The owner bought a Mazda crate motor. It's his wife's car.

Thats love right there.


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