Ok... So I started this DIY last night, and decided to drill the holes in the mount today. I tried to be very careful, but just went a little too far on one of the holes and went through the rubber. It's a tiny hole, but I wanted to know if I can either bond it up with something, or will the urethane just fill in the hole anyways?

Luckily this was an extra mount I had lying around, so it's just a test mule for this DIY so I don't mess up on the real thing since I'll have to have my car out of commission for a week when I do the real thing.

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/3121/photochi.jpg

As for that, can I just lift the engine with the floor jack method and 2x4's , then use two jack stands, one at the end of each pan, to rest the engine on? I'd place 2x4's in between the oil pan and jack stands just so the jack stand doesn't go through the pan. Lol

Anyone?

Good to use?
 

Are these still ok to use? I got them off of ebay pre-filled 85a for pretty cheap.

Attachment 223736
Attachment 223737
Attachment 223738
Attachment 223739
Attachment 223740

If they were cleansed and filled correctly, they're fine.

Thanks bud.:wiggle:

Rebuilt Mounts
 

On my 04 manual, i have replaced the mounts with BHR medium stiffness inserts. It eliminated the shifter shake, but now have a light vibration in cabin. I exchanged inserts to low stifness and now have no vibration. I rebuilt the stock motormounts with shore 80 neoprene and painted with black Plastic Dip .they can be had for $60. + shipping SOLD

Usable?
 

Hi all, When drilling out my LH engine mount I somehow managed to go slightly through the rubber top hat. I was wondering if anyone could give me some guidance as to whether it is still usable or if I need to source another one to fill with urethane,

Any help appreciated!

Long term damage from collapsed MM?
 

I believe the problems I'm experiencing are related to the motor mounts. Issues started about 3-4 weeks ago.

I'd like to spring for nicer/performance mounts, versus oem, but would need another 2weeeks.

Anyone have input on delaying the repair? Or should I just get the cheap stock mounts now and risk any long term damage.

i should add that I daily drive my RX-8, about 400 miles per week.
Thanks everyone!

Let me add one thing to Team's excellent urethane filling instructions. If you do not want to leave your engine on a floor jack for a week, you can press fit pieces of 2x4 into the spaces normally occupied by the mounts and set the engine down on them. S2 cars have a somewhat fragile oil pan configuration, and even though I put lumber across it to more evenly distribute the weight, I did not want to leave a jack under it for 8 days.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e81a860eda.jpg

Here are some photos from when I did mine.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d1dee6f848.jpg
Drilled, washed, and blown dry with compressed air


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...94f47502b0.jpg
Repainted, taped, ready to fill

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...cb962729d3.jpg
Filled

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...949c6843a6.jpg
Still filled

My procedure was a little bit different than Team's. Instead of using solvent, I soaked mine in a bucket of Joy detergent and hot water. I changed the soapy water and soaked them again, then rinsed thoroughly with hot water. I also taped mine, so I could pour about 1/16" extra urethane. That allowed me to file the urethane level, as the mounts do not sit level when turned upside-down. The extra material enabled me to precisely control the finished height. When I was finished working them, I beveled the edges with a sharp knife. I pulled the tape off after about 6 hours of cure time, then waited 7 days before working with them again. It has been a year, and they are performing very well. There is some added NVH, but it is isolated to under 2K RPM and isn't bad.

.

Somewhere down the line, they added two small heat shields as the right engine mount prone to fail by exhaust heat.
It's a 5min and a 5penny job, I used a 0.5 mil metal sheet to be able to bend them during instal.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b7870af9f1.png
Heat shield mod
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4fa649cb86.png
OEM shields
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b9a58de4b1.jpg

except it’s pretty much always the LH side that fails than the RH side where the exhaust is

the heat is not the cause of the failure, it’s the LH side being under tension under high engine loading which tears it out vertically while the RH side is under compression

.

Except on race/ track application mechanical stress might be the prominant factor,
however, on daily use, the heat cycle would cook engine mount way before. ( in RH version the UJ as well)
Under 20mile speed rx8 bay engine is an oven by the design fault, being exposed to exhaust heat would facilitate it more.
My RH engine mount was toasted while my LH was like brand new 38,000 milage, so as the most of rx8s I've seen.
As far I know there are three revisions regarding the heat failer for RH mounts.

Order from original manufacturer and a video
 

Here is a link to the original manufacturer, they sell it cheaper and ship outside USA, I recently got 3 lbs from them.
Forsch Polymer

Home

youtube video with English subtitles

I am doing an S1 and an S2 currently. My ‘04 had both mounts with centre plug visible and my ‘09 had both mounts with metal plates. One question I have, how much out of 1 lbs. is leftover after doing one set of mounts?

Did 2 sets of mounts yesterday
 

1lb. was enough for 2 sets. As suggested by teamRX8, I think it is a good idea to drill holes till the 3rd level. Don’t worry about going all the way. Now waiting for them to cure.