Spark Plug Wire Ohms Min/Max
#1
Spark Plug Wire Ohms Min/Max
I have done some searching and have seen a few posts where Ohms were mentioned but I did not see anything about if anyone has done any testing to see if the rotary has an Ohm range that is preferable to stay inside.
I am looking at getting a set made by Taylor that has a 40 Ohms per foot rating and was wondering is this would be too "aggressive" of a spark.
I am running LS-2 Coils.
Let the comments begin!
I am looking at getting a set made by Taylor that has a 40 Ohms per foot rating and was wondering is this would be too "aggressive" of a spark.
I am running LS-2 Coils.
Let the comments begin!
#3
Flame On!
iTrader: (4)
Copied from the FSM
"1. Remove the high-tension lead. (See HIGH-TENSION LEAD REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.)
2. Measure the resistance using a tester.
• If not within the specification, replace the high-tension lead.
Resistance
1.0-4.0 kilohms [20 °C {68 °F}] "
Is this what your looking for?
"1. Remove the high-tension lead. (See HIGH-TENSION LEAD REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.)
2. Measure the resistance using a tester.
• If not within the specification, replace the high-tension lead.
Resistance
1.0-4.0 kilohms [20 °C {68 °F}] "
Is this what your looking for?
#4
Here is why...
I have read on some other engines (not Rotary) that under stock scenarios (fuel / air ratio, injectors, NA, ect.) that a plug wire with considerablly less resistance than OEM (1800-2300 depending age) can cause some issues when running coils with a higher output than stock. I am not saying that is the case w/ the Rotary but was wondering if anyone out there might have tested it.
I want to go w/ as little resistance as possible but do not want to cause any issues.
Hope that makes sense.
I have read on some other engines (not Rotary) that under stock scenarios (fuel / air ratio, injectors, NA, ect.) that a plug wire with considerablly less resistance than OEM (1800-2300 depending age) can cause some issues when running coils with a higher output than stock. I am not saying that is the case w/ the Rotary but was wondering if anyone out there might have tested it.
I want to go w/ as little resistance as possible but do not want to cause any issues.
Hope that makes sense.
#5
Registered
iTrader: (3)
this is a frequencly asked question.
1st you need to educate yourself on how electricity travels thru a wire. You will find that a certain amount of resistance at times is not a bad thing.
If you are NA you dont need it. It only takes approx 15K volts to gap the plug--the rest is not needed. The wires you have are fully capable ( BHR kit?).
If you are running oem wires with the ls coils--yes you do need to change. Connectors/shielding are VERY important and you cant make the oems work correctly.
1st you need to educate yourself on how electricity travels thru a wire. You will find that a certain amount of resistance at times is not a bad thing.
If you are NA you dont need it. It only takes approx 15K volts to gap the plug--the rest is not needed. The wires you have are fully capable ( BHR kit?).
If you are running oem wires with the ls coils--yes you do need to change. Connectors/shielding are VERY important and you cant make the oems work correctly.
#6
this is a frequencly asked question.
1st you need to educate yourself on how electricity travels thru a wire. You will find that a certain amount of resistance at times is not a bad thing.
If you are NA you dont need it. It only takes approx 15K volts to gap the plug--the rest is not needed. The wires you have are fully capable ( BHR kit?).
If you are running oem wires with the ls coils--yes you do need to change. Connectors/shielding are VERY important and you cant make the oems work correctly.
1st you need to educate yourself on how electricity travels thru a wire. You will find that a certain amount of resistance at times is not a bad thing.
If you are NA you dont need it. It only takes approx 15K volts to gap the plug--the rest is not needed. The wires you have are fully capable ( BHR kit?).
If you are running oem wires with the ls coils--yes you do need to change. Connectors/shielding are VERY important and you cant make the oems work correctly.
The kit is not BHR. It is LS-2 (Delphi 12573190). I do not have them installed because I currently only have OEM wires. I am ordering a custom set from taylor and jsut wanted to know if 40 Ohm per ft. drop is too little resistance. If it is then I will get the set that has 350 Ohms Ft. drop.
Just want to make sure I am not going to damage anything by sending too much voltage to the plugs (if that is possible). I figured someoneout there who has tested ignitions would maybe have tested this.
#7
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Thanks Oldragger
The kit is not BHR. It is LS-2 (Delphi 12573190). I do not have them installed because I currently only have OEM wires. I am ordering a custom set from taylor and jsut wanted to know if 40 Ohm per ft. drop is too little resistance. If it is then I will get the set that has 350 Ohms Ft. drop.
Just want to make sure I am not going to damage anything by sending too much voltage to the plugs (if that is possible). I figured someoneout there who has tested ignitions would maybe have tested this.
The kit is not BHR. It is LS-2 (Delphi 12573190). I do not have them installed because I currently only have OEM wires. I am ordering a custom set from taylor and jsut wanted to know if 40 Ohm per ft. drop is too little resistance. If it is then I will get the set that has 350 Ohms Ft. drop.
Just want to make sure I am not going to damage anything by sending too much voltage to the plugs (if that is possible). I figured someoneout there who has tested ignitions would maybe have tested this.
Well maybe you should purchase a proper kit then instead of trying to cobble an ignition system together when you don't fully understand how the components of an ignition system work.
#8
Registered
iTrader: (3)
any good quality sparkplug wire will do for you, Taylor, Magnecor, MSD, etc--i do stay away from from nology!
The connectors are the most important part here. make sure they use the coil specific ones. Then when you mount them make sure the wires are separated and do not touch anything. I like using the plastic corrugated tubing on each wire.
When you install the wires on the coils it is real easy to not get the little clip ring on the coils post. You think it goes on fine only to realize later --hopefully--that the clip ring went down the side of the coils post rather than around it. So be sure it is on correctly from the start.
Never pull on the wire when removing it--never. Use the boot/tool.
Be sure the ignition coils you have are good. This is what 9K may be talking about too. There are a lot of rip offs out there/copies etc that can come back to haunt you. I really do not trust Ebay ignition coil sellers.
To make sure they are firing alright Team8 has a thread about a little inexpensive tool that can be used to verify that they are working ok.
Hope it all works out for you.
If the coils you have end up giving you trouble --call Ray at Black Halo. he will do you right and his coils are legit.
Hope it works out for you.
The connectors are the most important part here. make sure they use the coil specific ones. Then when you mount them make sure the wires are separated and do not touch anything. I like using the plastic corrugated tubing on each wire.
When you install the wires on the coils it is real easy to not get the little clip ring on the coils post. You think it goes on fine only to realize later --hopefully--that the clip ring went down the side of the coils post rather than around it. So be sure it is on correctly from the start.
Never pull on the wire when removing it--never. Use the boot/tool.
Be sure the ignition coils you have are good. This is what 9K may be talking about too. There are a lot of rip offs out there/copies etc that can come back to haunt you. I really do not trust Ebay ignition coil sellers.
To make sure they are firing alright Team8 has a thread about a little inexpensive tool that can be used to verify that they are working ok.
Hope it all works out for you.
If the coils you have end up giving you trouble --call Ray at Black Halo. he will do you right and his coils are legit.
Hope it works out for you.
#9
I know how an ignition system works. I know that is some cases (not all) is is possible to feed the plugs with too much voltage and cause overheating which in turn causes shorter plug life and possible missfires...I was simply asking if anyone has tested this on the rotary!
Learn to read the whole thread before jumping in with your 2 cents...
#10
any good quality sparkplug wire will do for you, Taylor, Magnecor, MSD, etc--i do stay away from from nology!
The connectors are the most important part here. make sure they use the coil specific ones. Then when you mount them make sure the wires are separated and do not touch anything. I like using the plastic corrugated tubing on each wire.
When you install the wires on the coils it is real easy to not get the little clip ring on the coils post. You think it goes on fine only to realize later --hopefully--that the clip ring went down the side of the coils post rather than around it. So be sure it is on correctly from the start.
Never pull on the wire when removing it--never. Use the boot/tool.
Be sure the ignition coils you have are good. This is what 9K may be talking about too. There are a lot of rip offs out there/copies etc that can come back to haunt you. I really do not trust Ebay ignition coil sellers.
To make sure they are firing alright Team8 has a thread about a little inexpensive tool that can be used to verify that they are working ok.
Hope it all works out for you.
If the coils you have end up giving you trouble --call Ray at Black Halo. he will do you right and his coils are legit.
Hope it works out for you.
The connectors are the most important part here. make sure they use the coil specific ones. Then when you mount them make sure the wires are separated and do not touch anything. I like using the plastic corrugated tubing on each wire.
When you install the wires on the coils it is real easy to not get the little clip ring on the coils post. You think it goes on fine only to realize later --hopefully--that the clip ring went down the side of the coils post rather than around it. So be sure it is on correctly from the start.
Never pull on the wire when removing it--never. Use the boot/tool.
Be sure the ignition coils you have are good. This is what 9K may be talking about too. There are a lot of rip offs out there/copies etc that can come back to haunt you. I really do not trust Ebay ignition coil sellers.
To make sure they are firing alright Team8 has a thread about a little inexpensive tool that can be used to verify that they are working ok.
Hope it all works out for you.
If the coils you have end up giving you trouble --call Ray at Black Halo. he will do you right and his coils are legit.
Hope it works out for you.
The coils were bought from a legit member here on the forums. The coils are legit with GM part #s and I have tested them. All is on the up and up.
Taylor is making the wires with the ends that match the LS-2 coils perfectly so I should be good. I was just concerned about which wire to go with.
I do appreciate the info. on installation and removal. I will be sure to keep an eye on it as you suggested.
Thanks again.
#11
Scroll down the left side of the index and click on "The Truth About Ignition Wire Conductors".
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm
This is one of those things I was talking about..."Engine tuners should also take into account that most stock engines and some hi-tech aftermarket engine management systems use resistance in ignition wires to sense additional information needed by the computer."
#12
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Don't troll my thread....that information is less than helpful...
I know how an ignition system works. I know that is some cases (not all) is is possible to feed the plugs with too much voltage and cause overheating which in turn causes shorter plug life and possible missfires...I was simply asking if anyone has tested this on the rotary!
Learn to read the whole thread before jumping in with your 2 cents...
I know how an ignition system works. I know that is some cases (not all) is is possible to feed the plugs with too much voltage and cause overheating which in turn causes shorter plug life and possible missfires...I was simply asking if anyone has tested this on the rotary!
Learn to read the whole thread before jumping in with your 2 cents...
Then we agree that each of each others posts are useless then. I was just giving you my opinion to help you avoid a costly mistake. No need to get all butt hurt about it.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 11-18-2011 at 02:09 PM.
#13
I think this is the wire I will go with. Just waiting on Taylor to give me a cost per set.
http://www.taylorvertex.com/Products/index.cgi/spiroPro
Thanks for all the help guys.
http://www.taylorvertex.com/Products/index.cgi/spiroPro
Thanks for all the help guys.
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