built renesis with greddy turbo problems please help!!
07-15-2010, 01:10 PM
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built renesis with greddy turbo problems please help!!
Ok heres the deal. i blew my original motor and ended up getting a new one built.
The new motor is a renesis with 3mm apex seals, a custom eccentric shaft and a street port. the car has a greddy turbo kit with E-manage ultimate runnin the original map from greddy and gets 5.6-6psi of boost ( no boost controller) . the car also has a agency power under-drive pulley, a turbo xs rfl bov, an exoticspeed 3" midpipe with a cat but it clogged so it was punched out so essentially catless then into a mazdaspeed dual muffler cat back. the car is a 2008 mt gt 232 stock hp model
Ever since i got the new engine life has been hell, horrible fuel consumption, low power, stalling and missfires. right now the compression is 90 lbs on first rotor housing and 85 lbs on the second rotor housing, which is of course low compression and a failed motor by mazda spec.
My engine builder has told me that the new seals are so strong it takes about 5000 km to break it in and sit properly and then will end up gaining compression to about 125-140 lbs. im currently at about 4100 km on the new engine and its come a really long way from almost not drive able to i'm estimating about low to mid 200's hp at the wheels.
the car still has misfires pretty bad and some stalling issues. along the way ive had some problems unrelated to engine that have thrown me some curve ***** trying to get my car to work sensible like a bad o2 sensor, a nipped emanage harness with a blown resistor, clogged cat and a boost leak. right now the car is getting misfire codes between 4500rpm and 5500 rpm and sometimes around 7300 rpm and it also has a code for running rich.
Right now im at the point where in another 1500 km or so the whole car is being sent to another province to get fixed what ever the case may be but i was just wondering if anyone has any idea of other factors that would cause misfires and the car to run rich. also anyones opinion on the low compression on the motor? it it possible for me to gain some compression or was it just a bad build? PLEASEEE HELLLLPPPP MEEE!!! oh and coils are brand new, and 4 sets of plugs used on this break in so far .
The new motor is a renesis with 3mm apex seals, a custom eccentric shaft and a street port. the car has a greddy turbo kit with E-manage ultimate runnin the original map from greddy and gets 5.6-6psi of boost ( no boost controller) . the car also has a agency power under-drive pulley, a turbo xs rfl bov, an exoticspeed 3" midpipe with a cat but it clogged so it was punched out so essentially catless then into a mazdaspeed dual muffler cat back. the car is a 2008 mt gt 232 stock hp model
Ever since i got the new engine life has been hell, horrible fuel consumption, low power, stalling and missfires. right now the compression is 90 lbs on first rotor housing and 85 lbs on the second rotor housing, which is of course low compression and a failed motor by mazda spec.
My engine builder has told me that the new seals are so strong it takes about 5000 km to break it in and sit properly and then will end up gaining compression to about 125-140 lbs. im currently at about 4100 km on the new engine and its come a really long way from almost not drive able to i'm estimating about low to mid 200's hp at the wheels.
the car still has misfires pretty bad and some stalling issues. along the way ive had some problems unrelated to engine that have thrown me some curve ***** trying to get my car to work sensible like a bad o2 sensor, a nipped emanage harness with a blown resistor, clogged cat and a boost leak. right now the car is getting misfire codes between 4500rpm and 5500 rpm and sometimes around 7300 rpm and it also has a code for running rich.
Right now im at the point where in another 1500 km or so the whole car is being sent to another province to get fixed what ever the case may be but i was just wondering if anyone has any idea of other factors that would cause misfires and the car to run rich. also anyones opinion on the low compression on the motor? it it possible for me to gain some compression or was it just a bad build? PLEASEEE HELLLLPPPP MEEE!!! oh and coils are brand new, and 4 sets of plugs used on this break in so far .
Last edited by braden420; 07-15-2010 at 01:28 PM.
07-15-2010, 01:12 PM
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ok heres the deal. i blew my original motor and ended up getting a new one built. the new motor is a renesis with 3mm apex seals, a custom eccentric shaft and a street port. the car has a greddy turbo kit with E-manage ultimate runnin the original map from greddy and gets 5.6-6psi of boost ( no boost controller) . the car also has a agency power under-drive pulley, a turbo xs rfl bov, an exoticspeed 3" midpipe with a cat but it clogged so it was punched out so essentially catless then into a mazdaspeed dual muffler cat back. ever since i got the new engine life has been hell, horrible fuel consumption, low power, stalling and missfires. right now the compression is 90 lbs on first rotor housing and 85 lbs on the second rotor housing, which is of course low compression and a failed motor by mazda spec. my engine builder has told me that the new seals are so strong it takes about 5000 km to break it in and sit properly and then will end up gaining compression to about 125-140 lbs. im currently at about 4100 km on the new engine and its come a really long way from almost not drive able to i'm estimating about low to mid 200's hp at the wheels. the car still has misfires pretty bad and some stalling issues. along the way ive had some problems unrelated to engine that have thrown me some curve ***** trying to get my car to work sensible like a bad o2 sensor, a nipped emanage harness with a blown resistor, clogged cat and a boost leak. right now the car is getting misfire codes between 4500rpm and 5500 rpm and sometimes around 7300 rpm and it also has a code for running rich. right now im at the point where in another 1500 km or so the whole car is being sent to another province to get fixed what ever the case may be but i was just wondering if anyone has any idea of other factors that would cause misfires and the car to run rich. also anyones opinion on the low compression on the motor? it it possible for me to gain some compression or was it just a bad build? PLEASEEE HELLLLPPPP MEEE!!! oh and coils are brand new, and 4 sets of plugs used on this break in so far . the car is a 2008 mt gt 232 stock hp model ok heres the deal. i blew my original motor and ended up getting a new one built. the new motor is a renesis with 3mm apex seals, a custom eccentric shaft and a street port. the car has a greddy turbo kit with E-manage ultimate runnin the original map from greddy and gets 5.6-6psi of boost ( no boost controller) . the car also has a agency power under-drive pulley, a turbo xs rfl bov, an exoticspeed 3" midpipe with a cat but it clogged so it was punched out so essentially catless then into a mazdaspeed dual muffler cat back. ever since i got the new engine life has been hell, horrible fuel consumption, low power, stalling and missfires. right now the compression is 90 lbs on first rotor housing and 85 lbs on the second rotor housing, which is of course low compression and a failed motor by mazda spec. my engine builder has told me that the new seals are so strong it takes about 5000 km to break it in and sit properly and then will end up gaining compression to about 125-140 lbs. im currently at about 4100 km on the new engine and its come a really long way from almost not drive able to i'm estimating about low to mid 200's hp at the wheels. the car still has misfires pretty bad and some stalling issues. along the way ive had some problems unrelated to engine that have thrown me some curve ***** trying to get my car to work sensible like a bad o2 sensor, a nipped emanage harness with a blown resistor, clogged cat and a boost leak. right now the car is getting misfire codes between 4500rpm and 5500 rpm and sometimes around 7300 rpm and it also has a code for running rich. right now im at the point where in another 1500 km or so the whole car is being sent to another province to get fixed what ever the case may be but i was just wondering if anyone has any idea of other factors that would cause misfires and the car to run rich. also anyones opinion on the low compression on the motor? it it possible for me to gain some compression or was it just a bad build? PLEASEEE HELLLLPPPP MEEE!!! oh and coils are brand new, and 4 sets of plugs used on this break in so far . the car is a 2008 mt gt 232 stock hp model ok heres the deal. i blew my original motor and ended up getting a new one built. the new motor is a renesis with 3mm apex seals, a custom eccentric shaft and a street port. the car has a greddy turbo kit with E-manage ultimate runnin the original map from greddy and gets 5.6-6psi of boost ( no boost controller) . the car also has a agency power under-drive pulley, a turbo xs rfl bov, an exoticspeed 3" midpipe with a cat but it clogged so it was punched out so essentially catless then into a mazdaspeed dual muffler cat back. ever since i got the new engine life has been hell, horrible fuel consumption, low power, stalling and missfires. right now the compression is 90 lbs on first rotor housing and 85 lbs on the second rotor housing, which is of course low compression and a failed motor by mazda spec. my engine builder has told me that the new seals are so strong it takes about 5000 km to break it in and sit properly and then will end up gaining compression to about 125-140 lbs. im currently at about 4100 km on the new engine and its come a really long way from almost not drive able to i'm estimating about low to mid 200's hp at the wheels. the car still has misfires pretty bad and some stalling issues. along the way ive had some problems unrelated to engine that have thrown me some curve ***** trying to get my car to work sensible like a bad o2 sensor, a nipped emanage harness with a blown resistor, clogged cat and a boost leak. right now the car is getting misfire codes between 4500rpm and 5500 rpm and sometimes around 7300 rpm and it also has a code for running rich. right now im at the point where in another 1500 km or so the whole car is being sent to another province to get fixed what ever the case may be but i was just wondering if anyone has any idea of other factors that would cause misfires and the car to run rich. also anyones opinion on the low compression on the motor? it it possible for me to gain some compression or was it just a bad build? PLEASEEE HELLLLPPPP MEEE!!! oh and coils are brand new, and 4 sets of plugs used on this break in so far . the car is a 2008 mt gt 232 stock hp model
07-15-2010, 01:17 PM
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Custom eccentric shaft? o.0
This kind of build needs a damn good tuner and a quality tuning solution(Which e-manage is not). Everything you describe suggests its tuned like *** and/or not built very well.
This kind of build needs a damn good tuner and a quality tuning solution(Which e-manage is not). Everything you describe suggests its tuned like *** and/or not built very well.
07-15-2010, 01:18 PM
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Im sorry dude but I got enough problems to write a novel! posting this as a last resort to try and figure out something before i spend a few G to get the car sent to another province and fixed by someone who has a clue about boosted 8's 
07-15-2010, 01:21 PM
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and yes it was a motor built in New Brunswick and Alberta! i got a secondary map from greddy that i tried but it works like ***! i tryed to get a custom map sent to me but everyone just tells me that e-mannage is **** and get a cobb. i live in NFLD and there is no dyno or tuners , i think the whole car is gonna have to be sent out of province
07-15-2010, 01:25 PM
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Nobody is complaining about you writing a novel. Its quite descriptive. Its the lack of punctuation that makes it hard to want to help you.
My first offer of assistance, rewrite that in proper diction, and we shall see how many more replies you receive.
My first offer of assistance, rewrite that in proper diction, and we shall see how many more replies you receive.
07-15-2010, 01:33 PM
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07-15-2010, 01:41 PM
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07-15-2010, 01:49 PM
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well like are these things that are just highly recommended but not essential? on the stock motor the car ran fine with what i had on it now until it .... blew to pieces ha . but do ya get what im sayin here? ive seen several rx8s on the internet that dont recirculate. and i'm not a master tech on this stuff by no means , all i know is from this website and personal experience with the car so a wbo2 is a wide band o2 sensor?
07-15-2010, 01:54 PM
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FWIW, venting to atm will make the car run rich and is unlikely to cause a lean condition, but the car will stumble and stall and run very poorly. I ran mine that way for about 3 days and couldn't stand it. Not having a wbo2 is just asking for trouble. Sure, it doesnt save your ***, but it can tell you at just what level of bad you are doing to your new motor.
07-15-2010, 02:00 PM
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ha it was right after i add the new midpipe so i thought it over boosted and raped the apex seals. since the new setup ive tried taking the vacuum line off the bov and using it like there was no bov at all and it still gave misfires and stalling. and i'm not familiar with the wbo2 and all this, i live in NFLD Canada this boosted 8 has been trial and error all the way. no one has a clue about turbos or rotrays
07-15-2010, 02:04 PM
#14
07-15-2010, 03:02 PM
#15
it sounds like you should just get the COBB's access port from MM here on the site, he can custom tune your setup out of the area. also the COBBs will allow you to read what the stock ecu is doing, like the AFR's intake temps knock retard. and you should buy it now cuz the manufature is stopping production, however MM will not stop tuning.
so you to do
Recirculate your BOV
Buy an COBB access port from MM on this site
so you to do
Recirculate your BOV
Buy an COBB access port from MM on this site
07-15-2010, 03:24 PM
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alright after hearin that the e-mannage ultimate is **** about a thousand times i am leanin towards gettin the cobb but for now is there any other minor thing that could mess up my car to give it misfires and stalling? faulty fuel pump maybe? somehting like that ?
07-15-2010, 03:45 PM
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Stalling and misfires due to VTA should only happen when you let your foot off the throttle. If your car is bogging down at WOT that is probably not due to the BOV unless it is leaking. I don't understand why you would spring for a built motor but then skimp on the most important part which is the tuning. No map Greddy gives you will ever be a replacement for one based on your actual car.
You should pick up a Cobb AP from MazdaManiac ASAP, they are discontinuing it for the 8 at the end of the month. When you buy an AP from MazdaManiac he offers a remote tuning service for a discount and is probably the most reputable tuner on this forum. Since this can be done via email no shipping the car around to get tuned required that way...
You should pick up a Cobb AP from MazdaManiac ASAP, they are discontinuing it for the 8 at the end of the month. When you buy an AP from MazdaManiac he offers a remote tuning service for a discount and is probably the most reputable tuner on this forum. Since this can be done via email no shipping the car around to get tuned required that way...
07-16-2010, 01:19 AM
#21
Wait - you changed the base VE of the motor and wonder why a piggyback won't work right...?
If you have 3mm 1 piece seals, your compression will be lower - they don't seal as well at low load / idle.... so that is step one - live with it, or raise the idle RPM.
If your intake is different than OEM (which it is), your stock tune will always be a PITA to live with. That and a custom E shaft; custom like different profile? (assuming such a thing can even be made, first I've heard of it), will change the effective combustion chamber size, and hence the VE - so basically your whole motor is off the tune, and it needs to be blueprinted / tuned from the ground up. Which means you should send out your injectors to be tested so you eliminate that variable, you will also need to re-do the intake, recirc the BOV and scale the MAF sensor after you eliminate other variables like vacuum leak and injectors.
This is gonna take some time man, welcome to the big leagues.
If you have 3mm 1 piece seals, your compression will be lower - they don't seal as well at low load / idle.... so that is step one - live with it, or raise the idle RPM.
If your intake is different than OEM (which it is), your stock tune will always be a PITA to live with. That and a custom E shaft; custom like different profile? (assuming such a thing can even be made, first I've heard of it), will change the effective combustion chamber size, and hence the VE - so basically your whole motor is off the tune, and it needs to be blueprinted / tuned from the ground up. Which means you should send out your injectors to be tested so you eliminate that variable, you will also need to re-do the intake, recirc the BOV and scale the MAF sensor after you eliminate other variables like vacuum leak and injectors.
This is gonna take some time man, welcome to the big leagues.
Last edited by Kane; 07-16-2010 at 01:21 AM.
07-16-2010, 06:45 AM
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alright, everything so far been very helpful, my question now is what are decent/reasonable compression numbers for a reneisis wit 3mm apex seals ? anyone have any numbers? as on last test i was running 90lbs or so on the front and about 85 on the second seems kinda low to me. if some one can verify that these are reasonable number i would definitely order a Cobb and tune todayy
irontanuki - the reason i never got it tuned is because there is no dyno in my province and i figured that it it was a remote tune rather than a dyno tune still would have been just mediocre but the word so far is that MM is the best anyways i guess.
irontanuki - the reason i never got it tuned is because there is no dyno in my province and i figured that it it was a remote tune rather than a dyno tune still would have been just mediocre but the word so far is that MM is the best anyways i guess.
07-16-2010, 09:41 AM
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no it wont. he'll be lucky to keep this motor alive if he doesnt get a clue really ******* quick.
just judging you from the sound of things, here is some advice that i doubt anyone will really aruge:
1) park the car. unless you have to use it to preserve your own health, park it and dont drive it until you've taken care of at least the basics and have a clue what you're doing
2) go read the greddy turbo fixes, various tuning theory, and forced induction threads until you do that, you can come here asking or talking about whatever topics(ie recirc BOV) and you will be at the mercy of whatever nonsense that some random person could tell you(not saying this thread has bad advice). understand the aspects of FI, or dont play unless you have deeeep pockets and dont care
(the reason i say this is because even if you arent the mechanic here, you still need to know this stuff, becaues your mechanic wont. and if you found someone who did by chance, you'd better have deep pockets if you wanna play ball that way. an FI Renesis is not a thing you can bolt some parts onto and never worry about it again. you will constantly be adjusting something, either yourself, or paying someone to)
3) buy an AccessPort You've got about 2 weeks to do this before they are no longer availible new. I'm SURE someone has already told you that 20 times, if not then every responder in this thread should slap themselves. the emanage is absolutely totally inadequate, and on the provided base maps it is unsafe to drive end of story.
i didnt read your whole thread, or even close. but its no wonder your having issues and questions. if you dont make some big changes real quick you'll find that your problems are just getting started
4) oh, and get rid of this so called builder who set you up with or agreed to work with such shyte
just judging you from the sound of things, here is some advice that i doubt anyone will really aruge:
1) park the car. unless you have to use it to preserve your own health, park it and dont drive it until you've taken care of at least the basics and have a clue what you're doing
2) go read the greddy turbo fixes, various tuning theory, and forced induction threads until you do that, you can come here asking or talking about whatever topics(ie recirc BOV) and you will be at the mercy of whatever nonsense that some random person could tell you(not saying this thread has bad advice). understand the aspects of FI, or dont play unless you have deeeep pockets and dont care
(the reason i say this is because even if you arent the mechanic here, you still need to know this stuff, becaues your mechanic wont. and if you found someone who did by chance, you'd better have deep pockets if you wanna play ball that way. an FI Renesis is not a thing you can bolt some parts onto and never worry about it again. you will constantly be adjusting something, either yourself, or paying someone to)
3) buy an AccessPort You've got about 2 weeks to do this before they are no longer availible new. I'm SURE someone has already told you that 20 times, if not then every responder in this thread should slap themselves. the emanage is absolutely totally inadequate, and on the provided base maps it is unsafe to drive end of story.
i didnt read your whole thread, or even close. but its no wonder your having issues and questions. if you dont make some big changes real quick you'll find that your problems are just getting started
4) oh, and get rid of this so called builder who set you up with or agreed to work with such shyte
Last edited by paulmasoner; 07-16-2010 at 10:21 AM.