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Optima Yellowtop ftw.
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Originally Posted by HiFlite999
(Post 3465247)
I'm going with an Odyssey 925 MJT. It's "only" 380 CCA, but there are other things to consider. From the specs, it'll deliver plenty of current for 30 seconds and it's never taken more than about 2 seconds for my car to start. If you gotta crank enough to require a monster battery, there's something else wrong with the car. What it does do is take 20-25 lbs right off the nose of the car. Being smaller it also lets me open up some space behind the radiator for better cooling. The stock "box" the battery sits in isn't for better cooling, it's for venting corrosive fumes generated by all wet batteries away from electronics and connectors. The dry cell Odyssey generates no such fumes, plus can't spill acid. Summit Racing sells them for about $175. If you have a mega-sound system, it's might be too small. The red-top in my other car barely made it through this winter and is due for replacement at 42 months, BTW.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc925mjt.htm I was going to go with the Sears Die Hard Platinum P-5 (OEM'd by Odyssey), until I saw that it is 50lbs. I don't need a tiny racing battery, but I don't want to add that mother either. Don't they have a normal 35 series battery? |
Originally Posted by map
(Post 3993309)
Bumping this old thread because the more I read about batteries the more confused I get. Is the battery above a drop in replacement? On the Odyssey site it looks like it's listed as a motorcycle battery. The PC1200 looks OK, but I have no idea. I can't tell what sizes they are, the specs don't show it (?).
I was going to go with the Sears Die Hard Platinum P-5 (OEM'd by Odyssey), until I saw that it is 50lbs. I don't need a tiny racing battery, but I don't want to add that mother either. Don't they have a normal 35 series battery? Also, Amazon made good on the Red Top I complained about earlier in this thread. |
Rather than start a new thread, I am going to piggy-back this one.....
My RX8 is a 2007, the battery in it is the the original one that it rolled off the assembly line with. Thus making it 5yrs. old +/-. The car cranks perfect. However, I know from experience, that a battery can crank perfect one day, and the next day when it decides it's had enough, not crank at all. I am thinking that maybe I should be proactive and replace it. Here is where I am looking for opinions... I will be storing the car for the winter from about the 3rd week in Oct. to about mid-April. I will store it with a battery tender on the battery. Would it make sense to install the new battery before I put it away, or store it with the original battery that is now in the car and install the new battery in the spring? Thoughts? Also, out of curiosity, does anyone know who makes Mazda's OEM batterys? |
New battery can wait until spring. IMO.
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+1 on that ^
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Originally Posted by Corso
(Post 4349949)
Also, out of curiosity, does anyone know who makes Mazda's OEM batterys? |
Originally Posted by Corso
(Post 4349949)
Rather than start a new thread, I am going to piggy-back this one.....
My RX8 is a 2007, the battery in it is the the original one that it rolled off the assembly line with. Thus making it 5yrs. old +/-. The car cranks perfect. However, I know from experience, that a battery can crank perfect one day, and the next day when it decides it's had enough, not crank at all. I am thinking that maybe I should be proactive and replace it. Here is where I am looking for opinions... I will be storing the car for the winter from about the 3rd week in Oct. to about mid-April. I will store it with a battery tender on the battery. Would it make sense to install the new battery before I put it away, or store it with the original battery that is now in the car and install the new battery in the spring? Thoughts? Also, out of curiosity, does anyone know who makes Mazda's OEM batterys? my oem battery lasted 13years in my audi. |
My OEM RX-8 battery (2009 RX-8) died late last year. I suspect the garaging of the car in winter had something to do with that, but it's been my experience with all of my Fords that the OEM batteries last just about long enough to make it past the bumper-to-bumper warranty and then die. I usually replace them proactively now after I find out the design lifespan of the battery (3-year, 5-year, etc.).
I definitely agree that I would wait until spring to buy a new one. |
Useful resurrection...kudos for searching.
When my OEM battery died (or was weakening) at 5 years, I just let the dealer put in a new OEM. $140, which is about $40 more than I could have done at Advance Auto. But I didn't get my hands dirty or strain my back, and the dealer took care of resetting whatever needs to be reset after a battery R&R. And it was cheaper than a fancy battery like an Optima. Am I just getting lazy? :) Ken |
Red tops are good no doubt. I am currently on my second o e m battery. I think I paid $80.00 for it a year or so ago. I love searching the post , there is a wealth of information here. You just have to sift for the kief on that, but there are also a lot of mechanics etc here, racing people, very cool place to search.
I have a 2004 4 speed automatic velocity red. 78,000 miles on it. Great ca if you take the time to love working on it and discovering a new trick or a free mod like the throttle body by pass, cool stuff. |
Anyone tried or looked at the Bosch S5 098? Looks like same specs and size as red top.
I'm considering it, will post an update if I take the plunge |
2 Attachment(s)
Red Top all the way..better cranking than the Yellow. Only issue I had when I bought mine was that I needed to order it with reverse polarity, so make sure your new purchased battery has the positive post as shown in the first picture below, otherwise you will have issues connecting the positive terminal.
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I bought a Red Top for $140.00 bucks through advanced auto parts about two years ago. They had some sort of deal on batteries and I saved quite a bit of money. Plus I think Advanced Auto parts will give you a free replacement if it goes out within 3 years...
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I use this bad larry :) DieHard Platinum Battery : Buy High-Performance Battery at Sears
900+ CCA Think turns over like a champ cold, hot, whatever lol. Albeit it wont fit in the OEM spot ;p |
Couldn't find a Bosch S5 with he right dimensions and the S4 doesn't look great specs wise, so I've gone with the crowd and ordered a red top! 35R right?!
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Define the word "best" as it is application specific.
Race? Audio? Severe cold climate? OEM application? Relocation? All these application require different types and rated batteries. IMO Optima batteries are crap for all applications, but the yellow is better than the red as it is a deep cycle battery, but again that all depends on your application. I wouldn't waste the money on them, it's all hype. |
Originally Posted by Carbon8
(Post 4470402)
Define the word "best" as it is application specific.
Race? Audio? Severe cold climate? OEM application? Relocation? All these application require different types and rated batteries. |
I'm adding information to a thread that has recently become more active, thusly adding to the topic at hand that naming one battery the best is an ignorant approach to any mod no matter how small.
Apologies for contributing |
Originally Posted by HiFlite999
(Post 3465247)
I'm going with an Odyssey 925 MJT. It's "only" 380 CCA, but there are other things to consider. From the specs, it'll deliver plenty of current for 30 seconds and it's never taken more than about 2 seconds for my car to start. If you gotta crank enough to require a monster battery, there's something else wrong with the car. What it does do is take 20-25 lbs right off the nose of the car. Being smaller it also lets me open up some space behind the radiator for better cooling. The stock "box" the battery sits in isn't for better cooling, it's for venting corrosive fumes generated by all wet batteries away from electronics and connectors. The dry cell Odyssey generates no such fumes, plus can't spill acid. Summit Racing sells them for about $175. If you have a mega-sound system, it's might be too small.
Odyssey battery PC925 MJT |
Isn't there a consideration on how high in cranking amps you can or should go with out effect on the starter?.
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This is where it gets tricky for us on the other side of the world. A lot of the names are either rare or non existent here. Non the less I have taken a note of them as it is just the beginning of winter here.
In my experience that is when my batteries seem to fail. Nights go to 0C maybe once or twice, and up to 14C during the day so it's not too bad. I'm really just pre informing myself so that I can at least have some basic knowledge if I have to buy a new one. I may not be technically minded but threads like this do help. |
Originally Posted by Stephen T
(Post 4470728)
This is where it gets tricky for us on the other side of the world. A lot of the names are either rare or non existent here. Non the less I have taken a note of them as it is just the beginning of winter here.
In my experience that is when my batteries seem to fail. Nights go to 0C maybe once or twice, and up to 14C during the day so it's not too bad. I'm really just pre informing myself so that I can at least have some basic knowledge if I have to buy a new one. I may not be technically minded but threads like this do help. |
Originally Posted by sweatr
(Post 4470715)
Isn't there a consideration on how high in cranking amps you can or should go with out effect on the starter?.
This is the opposite of voltage. Hope that helps. |
Thx. Good to know.
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