[B]Heavy Sputter and non crank over[/B]
 

This is my first post here and I have been looking for a solution all over for my problem but i cannot seem to find one that addresses my specfic problem.

I have a 2004 RX8 base model. summer of 2009 i had an ignition system melt down that started out with heavy sputtering and complete loss of power but engine still ran. when engine was finally shut off i had to cool off the cat because it was glowing red hot. took it to a shop that specialized in rotaries and they were able to deduce that my coils were shot and quit producing spark and ended up overloading my rear chamber thus spewing raw gas into the cat and made the resulting exhaust temps skyrocket which is why i had to spray down the cat to keep my car from going up in flames.

Amid the melt down was a melted O2 sensor connection and such. all was fixed and $500 later i got new coils, plugs, wires, and O2 sensor/harness. Car has been perfect since then.

Now since about november of 2011 my car has randomly refused to turn over. It would crank and crank and crank and I know it has gas and ignition because i can hear the engine teetering on the threshold of stable self sustaining ignition. It has went from once in a blue moon to once every couple weeks to once a week to now every few days. On top of that when i do get it to start up on the times it cranks over no problem, it would randomly heavily sputter but after about 10 seconds of me holding the RPM's at 4-5Ks it would stabilize and run like normal.

I want to get this diagnosed and solved before it breaks down altogether and leaves my transportationless since it is my daily driver.

Please any help would be greatly appreciated. And I'm Sorry if this is in the wrong section.

have the battery tested

Cat red hot once? Oh yea i think its fried.

Time to check the compression?

I'm gazing into my crystal ball:sad:

Take it back to the shop

I dont have a cat anymore, its a hollow tube now.

Asfor compression, that will be among the first items on my list to check for.

Battery is new as of summer 2011

The shop i took it to has since moved or closed down. This took place 2 and a half years ago. I dont want to take it to a dealer unless its absolutely last resort.

I dont like auto shops because i used to work at one and id be afraid they wouldnt know about the rotary.

I'm not sure on the shops in your area but afraid the dealer may be your only choice.

i didnt ask you how old the battery is. i said have it tested.

Scanned the OBD and it reads as follows:
P0300 - Multiple Misfires detected
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire.


Could my coils be going out again? if so why would the engine run normally after 10 seconds of ignition?

Thank you all for helping me out.

update
 

Just changed all four coils. coil number 3 from the left had visible charred residue while the spark plug wire connector on the coil side looked blackened.

Coils 1,2 and 4 all looked normal and plug connector 1,2 and 4 also looked nicely copper.

Started the car and it had the rough idle for 6 seconds then leveled out. Drove it around for a bit and noticed nothing strange. Parked it and shut it down. Started the engine back up and it teetered at the ignition but never turned over. Had to spray a bit of started fluid to get it running again.

Seems the coils were not the issue.

Tested the kV firing of each plug while running after the drive and found that all four coils were firing at about 11,000 V with no noticeable difference from #3.

could the wires be the issue, or the plugs? If nothing beyond the coils fixes the problem could the computer or supply harness have an issue.

Thank you for all your help.

The PCM(computer) has an 8/80,000mi warranty.

I don't think so.

FED.Emissions 96 80000 11-14-2013 80000

My car from eMDCS

Unless the OP's car is past 80?

I'm at 138,000 miles

Okay, exactly WHAT does "drove it around for a bit" mean?

Did you just drive it around the block once, and shut it off cold?
Does that mean you drove the car for 35 miles, testing it on hilly roads, curvy roads, and stop and go traffic?

If you went around the block once, and shut it off, I need to ask you if you understand that you can't just start up and shut off these cars, because doing so can cause flooding and hard starting issues. Don't do that.

Also, are you still on the original starter?
You might want to go look at the starter issue threads where they have the videos on the difference between old worn starters, and brand new fresh high power starters, and see which category your car falls in.

A fresh new starter can spin your engine over faster, giving you a better chance to start the car up.

BC.

Thank you for your reply.
When i say drive it around, what happens is that i drive it around town, in traffic, and at highway speeds since i live very close to interstates. I am very aware of the Rotary's tendency to flood if not properly warmed up and used before shutdown.

And I bought the car with 55,000 Miles on it so before then the carfax said nothing of such a procedure involving the starter or any maintenance related to the engine. If the starter was never touched prior to myself owning it then it is the factory starter. That is a very good suggestion though and thank you for your input.

Based on my previous post, i will perform the following procedures to further my investigation.

Replace all 4 plug wires
replace spark plug #3

If nothing changes:

check all vaccuum lines

If nothing changes or is wrong:

Replace starter since as mentioned the car probably could use a good new one.

check and change if necessary the Fuel filter and/or fuel pump.

Hopefully this will solve the problem somewhere.

most people here replace all plugs, wires and coils together. just saying. gl

Better idea
 

For those who are helping me out, this video link wil show you what i am dealing with when i say that the engine teeters on the edge of crank up.

Update 3/15/2012
 

I had gotten a compression check finally and have found that my needed compression is approximately 95-110 PSI at 190 RPMs crank. however i was turning at about 60PSI across all six faces.

I have bad compression and therefore am in need of a full rebuild. I will be performing this operation within the next two months. Thank you all for your help on my issue.

Edit: Id Like to thank Scott from RX8 Performance in Largo,FL for his help in my diagnosis. Please visit his site and provide him with support by using his services. He is the only one i know of in the central florida area that specializes in Rotary Engines.

http://www.rx8performance.com/