of course I mean if you use proper coolant and change it when needed.

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

9Krpmrx8: Is their data to back up your obviously infinite wisdom oh great one. I being a mortal do get attached to my royal purple, so what, that and a dollar will get you a cup of coffee at 7-11. I like your delusional statement: "Its widely known" Horse pucky where is your data. Don't you know there is data on both sides of any argument and that neither is on top. This is why we can't agree on this site as to what oil is best?, Snake oil...wow please dude. snide comments appears to adults like your pandering to the crowd for political currency...Get real. I was just trying to offer a small potential solution to running hot where ever you are driving.

I know about the seal componets and how those products did cause did cause erosion back in the day. In case you haven't checked its 20013, things are a little different now , I promise.

 

I don't need data, I have used the **** (not in my 8) and I have seen what happens. It's common knowledge that when mixed with coolant it creates a nasty sludge byproduct. It and products like it have been around forever and the ill effects are well documented.

Go to a race and see what people run, and unless they are sponsored they don't use any of that ****. It's a waste of money and only partially beneficial when mixed with de ionized water only. So unless you track your car and change the coolant very often it's a bad idea. Just use the recommended coolant (FL-22) and change it yearly (at least). The only other viable option is to use Evans.

But do what you want, you sound like you have it all figured out.

 

I would say that is your forte , having it all figured out . I do run fl-22 , for now. I have much research to do on radiator additives. I know **** brakes, I built Harleys for years. My 8 is my new Harley. I usually do pretty fair research before I jump in. I just wanted straight up feed back in the wisdom area.

Thx. "Oh **** he uses syn oil"

 

my head hurts

 

Take a asprin and get over your self dude. As I said I have research to do on additives ad I will. I am retired and have boo koo time to do just that. I don't need to show my opinion on some thing on any sticky because I come here to extract info and give where received and thas it.

So far after contacting a few places I am not satisfied with either side of the argument. I suspect by your comments( Not the snide one about your head) that you are probably a racer right. If indeed you are I respect your input( Not the snide input) on the racing experience.

Pease just drop the High school back of the had on the fore head and sigh, attitude.


I noticed after crawling under my 8 today that the front undercover leaves a gap of about 2 inches between the radiator and the bottom cover. Has any one done any thing like adding foam between the radiator and the cover?. I am still figuring how to best block off that air flow to force all air through the radiator. Any thoughts on that issue?.

 

stand in front of the mirror much?

 

has anyone tried a Mishimoto? never used one myself but they have a decent track record with supra guys & have great customer service/replacement warranty.

I wouldnt recommend a Griffen to anyone I like (not picking on BHR just giving my opinion, I have there MP & Ignition system) 3-4 years ago I purchased one for my Supra, and I swear it must have been made on a friday afternoon.... Terrible welds, fitment was complete ****, ECT bung had large metal shavings in it, and the polish was horrendous. Customer service wasnt much better, 5 business days for a response saying they couldnt replace it. Tossed it and purchased a PWR which I still have today.

 

Let me google that for you

 

Hm, and all this time I have been try to using Archie.

Thanks Team.

 

From Himni Racing FB Page

"If you have an RX-8, your engine is in jeopardy of catastrophic failure. It is not a matter of if, but when. Your car utilizes a plastic coolant expiation tank & a radiator with plastic end tanks. Both will fail in time & often at the cost of your engine. We like to think we'd catch the problem as water is dumped from the engine but by the time you notice, its likely too late. This is a 90k mile engine that overheated in a matter of moments when a plastic tank cracked & dumped all the coolant. The 1st picture shows how the water seal brunt from orange to black & gave out. The 2nd shows how the the seal turns to a dusty, chalk like funk. Replace those plastic rads & expansion tanks before its too late. Aluminum is your friend "

 

So now that you have for casted our doom, ah when are you going to enlighten us as , how to post pone the doom of the plastic radiator of today?. I run the SL-22 I think its called, the dealer put that in when I had my hoses along with the OMP replaced. So what is your input on the dooms day event, how to post pone or avoid?.

 

fl-22

 

I thought after RotorTherapy went to all that trouble about doomsday and the drum roll leading up to the very nice pics, that there would be more than ( FL-22)?. Sort of like a drum roll and then no act follows??. So the answer to dooms day is too replace the radiator right?.

 

There is no "doomsday" so to speak. Parts go when they want, with the rotary for obvious reasons you dont want your cooling system to do that ever.

Are aluminum radiators, aluminum overflows & new hoses recommended - yes 100% but are they required? no just dont be surprised if something eventually goes and possibly causes catastrophic failure.

 

Hopefully my research will keep me from one of your projected failures

 

I have one.. .Its great so far.. it has been in from about July i think.. No issues.. Make sure you use foam on the radiator and proper coolant and so far im happy.. There has been some fitment issues with the OEM fan. However I did have some of the fan fitment issues the mounting holes were off slightly... Just gave the fan holes some Dremel love and it mounted just fine... Other than that its working for me thus far..

 

Haven't had an issue with cooling yet, but I think the only issue I have with my radiator is the gap at the bottom between the bottom of the radiator and the removable bottom cover under it. There is a gap of 2 or 3 inches. I am going under the car this week end and maybe put some foam in there to force the air through and not around or under rather. With the 8 it seems t be you have to reinvent the design all the time.

 

you want the undertray to vent a little bit, if it doesn't it will cause a high pressure zone at higher speeds and reduce airflow through the radiator. Sometimes the design has a purpose....

 

I did just that... The foam on my OEM radiator was all dead so I went to Joann's and got some and attached it.. Works great for me... As for venting there is cut outs on the bottom tray that allow for air flow..

 

i was assuming he meant a the little gap between the undertray and the radiator. My mistake.

 

That makes sense to me

 

I used to suffer from the infamous coolant dash light once and again, after gunning it hard and keeping at higher rpm's for prolonged periods.

Now it seems to come on very frequently, even in normal driving situations, I am however driving in city scenarios with ambient temperatures on 75 - 81 degrees which I'm sure is playing a part. I have an '04 that's just shy of 48K miles, I did a full service at 46K and completely drained and flushed the radiator so I know the coolant itself is relatively new.

As I have an '04 and because of the other problems I've read of, I'm fairly certain it's the internal sensor in the coolant reservoir that's going so the whole tank needs replacing with one of the million revisions that's been released.

As it seems overheating is a big killer of renisis engines I'm thinking of replacing the stock radiator as well.

My questions are;

1) Does anyone know of anyone still making an A/T aftermarket radiator (I contacted BHR with no luck) or is it a case of buying a manual and the necessary hardware to make it compatible?

2) How feasible is it to install an aftermarket engine temperature gauge to get an accurate reading as I've read the factory one is not to be trusted.

Thinking of switching to 5w30 for the summer months too, any thoughts, comments or suggestions greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

The problem is actually with the float and not the sensor.

You can find some of what you seek here: MAZMART - Serving The Mazda Community Since 1980. Cooling

Paul.

 

I think I got the last BHR made AT radiator (u sure they No longer makes them?)

as for the coolant tank, like mazmart said, it's actually the float that's part of the tank, not the sensor itself. its not hard to replace, an hour is more than enough.