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couldn't find rke module on donor car (jap half cut)
Trip to dealer... Limp in with 4AT ECU connected. Hand them the 6MT one and request they flash it "as built" marrying it to your existing immobilzer and keys.
They'll likely forget to reset the ESS so do the 20 brake stomp procedure and when you get home install the electronics module portion of the ABS module from the same car as your donor ECU and you should be good to go minus a periodic CEL for your clutch sensor.
Post back here if you figure out how to fix the clutch sensor CEL. I ended up suppressing it with MazdaEdit.
can they make the japanese ecu work or can i use my j2534 programmer to complete this task, I've done it for a mazda mpv ecu installation what is so different for rx8?
which "Mazda edit"did u buy? how much was it?
Last edited by renegaderacing; 12-16-2015 at 01:54 AM.
can they make the japanese ecu work or can i use my j2534 programmer to complete this task, I've done it for a mazda mpv ecu installation what is so different for rx8?
which "Mazda edit"did u buy? how much was it?
I don't think they are going to touch a JDM ECU.
It is my understanding only a MDS can do this procedure.
Mazdaedit Personal Edition by Epifan software. Google it.
ive got access to a complete car wrecked with almost the exact mileage as my car. thats why was trying to figure out which module actually held the immobilzer part of the system to coin your term "brain transplant". shopkey only shows rke module @ pass kick panel. my japanese car don't have same box anywhere.
ive got access to a complete car wrecked with almost the exact mileage as my car. thats why was trying to figure out which module actually held the immobilzer part of the system to coin your term "brain transplant". shopkey only shows rke module @ pass kick panel. my japanese car don't have same box anywhere.
Take the ECU and ABS module (it too is under your hood, right next to the fuse box) from your donor.
Limp to the dealer with the 4AT ECU. Hand them the donor (USDM) 6MT ECU and ask they marry it to your Immobilzer (commonly called as built).
They will likely not know how to pair the ABS so when you get home just drop in the ABS from the same donor.
shell and rotary ressurcation both have threads on doing the swap. idk if a 7 trans will work but it might. if you need ecu, abs, driveshaft, rear end etc lmk i have it all
The gearbox will not mount up. The bell housing and tail shaft were changed from rx7 to rx8.
Well this is half wrong. The rx8 and FD rx7 use the sale bell housing bolt pattern. In fact all rotary engines do. There is a discrepancy between auto and manual, the 93-11 auto trans models have more bellhousing bolt holes than the manual models. But this is not a problem if for instance you want to put a manual trans behind a 93-11 auto engine block, because the manual trans bellhousing holes line up with the same holes on the auto block, you have an extra hole on the auto block that do not get used, you have one hole on the auto block that is missing for the manual trans but its no problem.
So whether you are trying to mount the FD gearbox behind an rx8 auto or manual block, yes it will "mount up" to the engine.
Now you are correct that it will not "mount up" to the rx8 PPF on the rear side. Im also unsure of shifter alignment or driveshaft length.
having completed this swap a couple of days ago [lazily swapping an 04 4 port automatic to 6 port 6 speed over the past four months], i have some additional input to provide.
without modifying any harnessing whatsoever, when you try to start the now swapped MT engine, nothing will happen. this is because the starter interrupt "test" with the AT chassis harness actually makes a trip through the AT engine harness, down the trans tunnel, to the park/neutral position switch on the AT trans. without the switching in place to complete the circuit, starter relay doesn't get energized. on MT vehicles, the starter interrupt "test" is the clutch starter interlock switch, and then it runs down to the starter relay with no further interruption.
on my vehicle, i did two things. first, i cut and soldered the LIGHT GREEN/RED and WHITE/BLUE wires together at the large bulkhead that connects between the chassis harness and the engine harness in the PCM box.
this now completes the starter relay circuit. at this point, the key can be turned, and the starter will run. and second, i spliced the WHITE/BLUE wire a little after it runs off the back of the ignition switch, and soldered in between the spliced wires an appropriate length pigtail connector, to plug in to the stock clutch starter interrupt switch.
with this done, the wiring travels pretty much how the MT chassis harness did, minus the brief jaunt away from the fuse box, over to the engine bulkhead, through the solder joint, and to the starter relay.
now, after driving it a little bit to work on breaking in the engine [rebuilt courtesy of RotaryResurrection], i have noticed the issue experienced by ShellDude, and i can explain why.
let's assume the car is running, and the shifter is in neutral. right now, the PCM is aware that the transmission is in neutral, due to the neutral position switch, and the engine is idling correctly.
now, let's assume that the car is running, and the shifter is in gear. right now, the PCM is aware that the transmission is in gear, due to the neutral position switch, and the engine has some type of load placed on it, to propel the car.
NOW, let's assume that the car is running, and the shifter is in gear, AND the clutch pedal is down. right now, the PCM is aware that the transmission is in gear, due to the neutral position switch, and the engine has some type of load placed on it...but...it's now revving with no load. the RPMs keep blipping.
enter the "clutch pedal position switch" [CPP switch]. with the second switch on the clutch pedal installed and wired correctly, the PCM is aware that the clutch pedal is down, and the engine idles as it should.
when the clutch pedal is down, the PCM must see pin 4F grounded.
run a pin from PCM pin 4F, into the cabin, to the CPP switch, to ground.
this switch being sensed as not present, or malfunctioning, can actually trip a DTC, and illuminate the MIL.
sooo...yeah. chalk me up as someone else that has successfully swapped AT -> MT, and 4-port -> 6 port.
dude, this is huge.... now I need some decent weather to run the wire!
well, here's my idea. [this assumes that you did what i did, and did not actually convert any of the automatic harnessing in the car, aside from the engine]
there's about 17 wires of interest that run from the now-useless AT TCM module plug, that lives by the clutch pedal [because the AT TCM bolts in place of the clutch pedal]. these wires run alll the way out to the engine bay, into the PCM compartment, where they pass through bulkhead X-18. from X-18, they're supposed to continue through the engine harness, down the trans tunnel, into the AT trans.
the TCM module plug even has a ground we can use to ground the other side of the CPP switch!
so, pick one of the 17, snip from X-18, appropriately crimp/extend/solder/whatever and connect to PCM pin 4F. take that wire selection from the TCM module plug, wire it to one side of the CPP switch. wire the other side of the CPP switch to one of the grounds on the TCM module plug [looks like we might have pins 2M and 2Q available, the wires are BLACK/GREEN], and that's it.
if we do it right, we can make use of parts of the now-dead AT wiring in the harness, and we don't have to run any additional wire.
once it's not so dang cold up here, i'll make those harness adjustments on my car.
Last edited by SaturnNiGHTS; 01-02-2018 at 08:07 AM.
Reason: somehow pasted the same TCM harness image...
So how about the reverse of this; 4-port turbo in a 6-port chassis. Do you think it can be made OBD2 compliant with a Cobb AP and possibly also a piggyback ecu?
extra tidbit: the harness plug for the clutch pedal position switch that one would be looking to get is available as a pigtail designed as ford/motorcraft WPT-721. comes with a fully populated [5 pins, versus the 2 required by the switch] connector, wire for the pigtail, and appropriate heat shrink tubing. plugged in to the connector is the clutch pedal position switch that came with my new mazda clutch pedal.
if you get lucky and are able to get a pigtail snipped off from a manual RX8 [or from another car that makes use of the same switch], more power to you. i decided to get the pigtail.
Nobody? I need to figure out how to put a 4-port turbo with 5-spd manual trans in a 6-port chassis and get it OBD2 compliant which I’m sure there will be a number of CEL issues to address.
Nobody? I need to figure out how to put a 4-port turbo with 5-spd manual trans in a 6-port chassis and get it OBD2 compliant which I’m sure there will be a number of CEL issues to address.
I really can't see that being an issue . Just use the same ecu and wiring loom . The only cels you should get is the ones for the APV and air pump. Delete those with flash software .
Well if you read this thread it wsn’t actually that simple going from 4-port to 6-port, but I’m thinking the one advantage is that in that direction they’re missing some wiring in the 4-port chassis needed for the 6-port engine. So I should have all the wiring covered. I’m concerned about the pcm though because the 6-port pcm is going to be looking for signals that won’t exist for the 4-port engine. Pretty sure that you can’t just delete them and it won’t likely trigger OBD2 emissiin compliance with those issues unresolved.
Well if you read this thread it wsn’t actually that simple going from 4-port to 6-port, but I’m thinking the one advantage is that in that direction they’re missing some wiring in the 4-port chassis needed for the 6-port engine. So I should have all the wiring covered. I’m concerned about the pcm though because the 6-port pcm is going to be looking for signals that won’t exist for the 4-port engine. Pretty sure that you can’t just delete them and it won’t likely trigger OBD2 emissiin compliance with those issues unresolved.
It will work no problem . Going the other way (AT to MT) is complicated ...this way isn't. There are certain compliance issues that some strike when fitting a turbo ........ the only extra one you have is the APV cel.
I've seen people fit the air pump under the car to get around that one...... no reason you couldn't have an apv motor spinning around in a housing doing nothing to get around that.
I think the M/E software has another level of deletion that the Cobb doesn't have that could possibly avoid all that but as I've never needed it I can't be sure.
Yeah, I may have to go there if that's the case. I believe on the Cobb certain components have to be plugged in to get past the CEL. Not sure because I never had to do any of that on my previous builds. Leaving the APV motor, etc. plugged in is no problem though. I suppose plumbing the air pump in by using an emission-legal manifold flange to start with (already have one) and using it is a possibility that I need to consider.
12-15-2015, 04:56 PM
