Turbo rx8 bog @ 7,000+ rpm
 

My greddy turbo rx8 is boging @ 7,000+ rpm. if i check the engine light it reads that its running rich. if i turn up the boost will that comp for it? its doing it in every gear. please help

what's your AFR when you hit 7K?
what engine management?
what psi are you running?

don't turn up the boost, that won't solve anything...
seems like a tuning issue if I were to guess....but it's hard to say from your very brief description.

^^^ if we get answers to these questions we might be able to help

Is it the stock Greddy turbo system?
did you do any of the "fixes"
who tuned the car?

its got the interceptor x with the greddy turbo system @ 5 psi. i had it dyno tuned @ the dyno shop in santee, ca. when they finished with the car they said that the injectors were maxed out, but i get a system to rich code.

so what's the afr when you hit 7k or above?

How long has this been going on?

they never gave me a afr reading.

Firstly - the injectors wont be maxed out . They start maxing out at around 9 psi on the Greddy .
Secondly - your tune is out .
Thirdly - the interceptor x is very finicky as it does not compensate for temp/altitude/atmos pressure very well so that may be why it was ok one day but no good the next .

it's a problem with your tune it's too rich...
also you better get a wideband oxygen sensor so you can see ur AFR's this is really reallly really vital to see when getting into boost....(I know some ppl might say you don't need one but I would install a damn AFR gauge before the damn turbo cause I would want to know if i'm leaning out and gonna blow my motor and possibly be able to save it)

theres your problem right there... you have no guages to monitor what your car is telling you

Doesn't the Greddy come with a block off plate for the Aux intake ports? If you didn't install the plate couldn't that cause a high RPM issue?

/\ So long as it is tuned for whatever is there it should not be an issue .

oh god...why do people run turbo's without a wideband afr gauge?

get one immediately and get a retune

better yet...dump the intercepter-x and get a cobb accessport and a good intake, like a modified aem intake

I love it...another drop the interceptor and get the AP alright just to feel ya in...if your running the interceptor there is a few things you can do. Now you said it was giving you a rich code. So I'm guessing when this happens your check engine light flashes. Without a wideband there is only one way to do this. It's safe but not safe if you don't know what your doing. Now some are going to argue with me about this and tell you not to do it but here's what you do.

Pull up your data logger...and start a log....now do a 3rd or fourth gear pull...when it bogs let off...now shift down a gear and slowly accelerate to where your like say 6k or even 7k without boosting..so your only like half throttle then smash it. Log that as well

Now when you look at your log look at your RPM, Load, and cycle duty. You'll notice your rpm going up..and then all of a sudden stopping or slowing gaining.
You'll also notice your load jumping from say 2 psi boost to like 4 psi boost. Last your notice your cycle duty will be say 6.23ms and then all of a sudden jumping from that 6.23 to say 7.28ms that's where your problem is.

Now depending on who tuned or how they tuned...there is a few pages...

alright now the next part is important...if your in the normal mode...where you only have your IDLE screen, Load, and WOT then your screen should be screen 17...it's called RPMWOT

you'll should see the fuel increasing there and you can bring it down by say 3 clicks and then try it and do it till it works...and by all means no more then 3 clicks at a time. Where I'm talking about the 3 clicks is say 7k is where it dies out...start there and only do the 7k map don't touch the 8k or 9k just yet. Get it to hit 7k and then advance to the 8k...cause 7k might need more fuel removed then 8k.

Now I just thought...when it hits 7k but then dies out at like 7250 or 7500 this is because at that point your between two maps.. the 7k and the 8k. If it's hitting 6750 - 7250 then your 7k is fine. But if it bogs before 7k then your 7k is rich. This is where the data log comes in handy cause you can see actual rpm's and not just your eye ball of where it was.

Hope I didn't confuse you...but if you understand all of that...then it should be cake for ya and you'll be boosting in no time.. But still recommend a wideband!!!!!

But this screen will be the one that will fix the problem as long as your in normal mode..if your in matrix it don't use it.

Now lastly why I told you to do the log...look at the log and if it dies out everytime it hit's 4psi or 5 psi you can go to your IDLE screen...screen 1 and remove fuel for the boost across the board. But keep in mind say your at 5k and 4psi and it's good...but at 7k at 4psi it's not...do not remove fuel from the 4psi. Don't get me wrong it will solve the problem up high but will risk blowing the engine on that low rpm. It's just one of those things where you need to understand what page does before you go adjusting....if you want me to explain while your at the car and with the cpu connected..feel free to give me a call... 812-236-1182 and I'd be more then happy to help you out. But like everyone else says GET A DAMN WIDEBAND. oh and for the info..your car bogs when the AFR hits about 10.3 or so with racing plugs.

Yeah, what's your point? How many threads does it take on this forum for some people to understand the stock pcm with a reflash device is better than an interceptor x?

Using the interceptor x is a step backwards when there are better alternatives out there.

Seriously save yourselves the headache of constantly having to adjust your tune just because the weather changes...get tuned with an accesport and be done with it. Makes sense to me. :dunno:

another one of those drop the typewriter get a computer type of people i see. Since its old it must be the best

[/sarcasm]

It's not that it doesn't adjust...it's just that it has to be set up...but in order to do so you have to be in that condition. Like brettus said

Thirdly - the interceptor x is very finicky as it does not compensate for temp/altitude/atmos pressure very well so that may be why it was ok one day but no good the next .

Well you have a screen called Air_t which is for the temp. So there's that adjustment... Only thing it really doesn't adjust for is the atmos pressure but if you think about it...as pressure goes up or down it's just going to change what load map your in. So really the interceptor really does adjust everything...just it takes a lot more time...and really you have to understand it well before you can really adjust and set it up. I guess you could say it's only for professional or highly experienced. Besides if I'm at the track and a sensor fails....I don't want me tune going rich or to shit cause of a damn sensor. Atleast with the X I know what I got and I have the same thing all day

^But the bottom line is the AP is MUCH easier and more powerful.

Not to mention you can't pass emissions in most states with the Int-X because of the CEL and there is no way to get rid of it. AP just turns it off

cel???? I don't have a cel in my car!!!

But yes I agree the AP is definably easy.. I have spend a good month getting really familar with the interceptor and understanding it..and sometimes I adjust and it doesn't make that big of a difference and other times it does... Just depends on how your injectors are staged.

You have the Int-X and no CEL? Have you verified from the OBD-II port? How many miles have you driven it/drive cycles. Otherwise I call BS, there is NO WAY around a CEL with the Int-X after at least a few drive cycles.

lol why would there be a cel??? I drove it home from florida without a light and to mid-ohio to the track and never had a cel. Only time I've gotten a cel is when I was tuning and I'd hit insane rich spots the ones I was talking about 10.3 or lower and my light would flash..but as soon as I get back to the right spot it would be fine and the light would go out.

my car has a cell on all the time on mine. i dont really care about the cell though. the check engine light being on is cool with me. i had my car taken back to the dyno shop & had a boost controller installed they did not even charge me for the pulls 1/2 hour. all they did was turn up the boost to 9 psi. no more problems the car runs so much faster now. also had a compression test done. everything checked out ok. also got a afr gauge on the way.

^AFR gauge is a must! like said bofore good thing u have one ordered...