ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

A little late, but oh well...

Make year of car (motor if changed) -2004
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Transmission type -4 Port Auto
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Average high and low temp in area of operation 40F to 80F
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Altitude -138 ft
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Fuel grade - 93 (Sunoco) & 100 Race (local fuel company)
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Oil type/grade -10w30 Mobile 1
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Plug type/deg - NGK
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Miles on motor before turbo - 24,000 (8/2010)
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Miles with turbo - 54,000 (8/2012)
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Blown motors - 0
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Reason / what broke - nutin yet
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Turbo kit - BNR GReddy
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PCM/ECU - AP later Adaptronic Select
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Lowest PSI and highest PSI you run -7-10
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Your normal operation PSI - 9
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Shop tuned or self tuned - little bit of both
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Dyno'd HP/TQ (if you have) - haven't broke 200 yet
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Fuel upgrades - ID1000 secondaries
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Cooling upgrades - second oil cooler + GReddy oil pan
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Exhaust type or diameter - BHR mid + TurboXS catback
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Cat or catless - carless
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Driving style (DD/heavy foot/so on) - DD
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Average time under boost per day - 40%
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Total cost (ball park) for turbo/install/tune - closely held secret
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Personal comments about your setup. (likes/dislikes)

Darkness8

iTrader: (2)

I would like the guys who are still running these set ups to update the miles and any changes on the form.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Done.

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

updated! pretty much just changed the miles on turbo (previous was like 6000, now 35000) and added BHR coils

Darkness8

iTrader: (2)

thats what I needed to find. a turbo renesis with a decent amount of miles with no rebuild. I'm in the middle of planning an fd3s swap if I cant find more unpopped turbo rennys with over 20k miles.
thanks Konig & 9K

09Factor

I have 35K+ on my Renny btween 2 different turbo systems. Oh and no OMP, just pre-mix for the last 10k.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

Updated mine.... 12-15K miles on my stock Greddy with fixes, SSQV VTA and a MM tune.... Premixing 8oz of Idemitsu per fill up on top of MM increased OMP settings, still running strong!

Will be upgrading to BHR ignition and colder plugs right away

JIN13

Make year of car (motor if changed) - 2005 original motor
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Transmission type - 6MT
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Average high and low temp in area of operation - lowest 30F high 100F
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Altitude - sea level
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Fuel grade - 93
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Oil type/grade - mobile1 10w20
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Plug type/deg - stock primaries rx7 secondaries BHR ignition
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Miles on motor before turbo - 11000
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Miles with turbo - 36000
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Blown motors - 0 thank god
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Reason / what broke - n/a
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Turbo kit - greddy with BNR upgrade
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PCM/ECU - cobb AP
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Lowest PSI and highest PSI you run - low 6/7psi high 10-11psi
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Your normal operation PSI - 9psi
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Shop tuned or self tuned - self tune/PPO2/Kane Tune
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Dyno'd HP/TQ (if you have) - 285ish WHP not on dyno
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Fuel upgrades - stock injectors with DW200 fuel pump
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Cooling upgrades - greddy oil pan
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Exhaust type or diameter - HKS High power single outlet
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Cat or catless - catless
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Driving style (DD/heavy foot/so on) - heavy foot everyday
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Average time under boost per day - almost every time I drive
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Total cost (ball park) for turbo/install/tune - so far none all work done by myself in my garage, same for tunning except for $200 for Dino time. Turbo kit was $3200 as for everything else probably $3000 more on top.
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Personal comments about your setup. (likes/dislikes)
I love everything about it it's a hobby and a passion. I have AEM wideband A/F, boost controller gauge, oil temp gauge, and greddy oil press gauge and fuel press gauge. Short shifter, BHR ignition and a few more things can't remember at the moment.

skc

Make year of car (motor if changed) -2003 6 port
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Transmission type - manual
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Average high and low temp in area of operation 50 to 104F
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Altitude - sea level
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Fuel grade -98 Ron
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Oil type/grade - HKS 10w 50 for last 12 months MRO prior to upgrade
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Plug type/deg -stock
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Miles on motor before turbo -64 000
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Miles with Supercharger -20 000
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Blown motors -0
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Reason / what broke -nil
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supercharger kit - Hymee
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PCM/ECU -HKS Fcon
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Lowest PSI and highest PSI you run -8psi
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Your normal operation PSI -8psi
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Shop tuned or self tuned -shop
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Dyno'd HP/TQ (if you have) - 276HP (203kw)
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Fuel upgrades - tried aeromotive however caused fuel to overheat so now back to stock
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Cooling upgrades -Second oil cooler, some ducting, Mazmart water pump
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Exhaust type or diameter -RB extractors ceramic coated, twin 2 inch from cat to rear custom cat back with 2"perforated pipe and stainless steel wool packed.
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Cat or catless -100 cell with 3"pipe
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Driving style (DD/heavy foot/so on) - mixture of occasional DD/heavy foot and 3 to 10 track days per annum.
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Average time under boost per day -70%
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Total cost (ball park) for turbo/install/tune - have not looked
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Personal comments about your setup. (likes/dislikes)
Love the instant torque and power all the way to the buzzer. Some teething issues being one of the first to install this kit. However, it has taught me a lot about the car while trying to diagnose issues. Would like to explore the potential of this kit after a rebuild in the future with a potential boost increase to 12psi

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Hey, you have no turbo. Sneaky guy.

skc

I figured it is really a reliability thread so I may as well share.

A properly tuned FI car is nothing to be scared about if you want more power.

Rotary_Redliner

Make year of car (motor if changed) -2004 6 port
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Transmission type - manual
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Average high and low temp in area of operation - 50 to 85
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Altitude - Ramstein AB, Germany
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Fuel grade - 91
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Oil type/grade - 10w 50
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Plug type/deg - stock plugs gapped to .30"
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Miles on motor before turbo - 25k on first motor, 0 on new motor
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Blown motors - 1
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Reason / what broke - Boost spike to 15psi and no BOV recirc. Apex seals in both rotors.
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Turbo Kit - Greddy w/ BNR upgraded turbo
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PCM/ECU - Cobb tuned by Kane
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Lowest PSI and highest PSI you run - 13psi
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Your normal operation PSI - 13psi
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Shop tuned or self tuned - Cobb tuned by Kane
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Dyno'd HP/TQ (if you have) - none
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Fuel upgrades - stock
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Cooling upgrades - none
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Exhaust type or diameter - TurboXS full exhaust
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Cat or catless - Catless
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Driving style (DD/heavy foot/so on) - spirited w/ a daily dose of redline
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Average time under boost per day - 30%
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Total cost (ball park) for turbo/install/tune - around 9k with rebuilt engine and upgrades
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Personal comments about your setup. (likes/dislikes)

The car now has the power it should have came with stock---still isn't a drag racer but my setup builds boost in a way that amplifies the stock power curve of the RX8. Blowing a motor and diagnosing issues has taught me alot about the car, but it is now to the point where it is back to daily driven---it has been a long journey.

Vizard424

iTrader: (1)

Make year of car (motor if changed) - 2004 (Reman @ 2011)
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Transmission type - MT
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Average high and low temp in area of operation - 30F - 100F
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Altitude - 500 ft
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Fuel grade - 93 octane
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Oil type/grade - 10w-40 Castrol GTX
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Plug type/deg - Leading (NGK BUR9EQP), Trailing (NGK RE9BT)
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Miles on motor before turbo - unkown
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Miles with turbo - 4k on rebuild
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Blown motors - 2, original motor swapped w/ reman, reman
then rebuilt by Pettit Racing
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Reason / what broke - Side seals were going out due to excess
heat between turbo and exhaust ports
(possibly from running 10 psi on factory
GReddy T618Z turbo)
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Turbo kit - GReddy T618Z turbo kit
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PCM/ECU - COBB AP
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Lowest PSI and highest PSI you run - 6.5psi - 9psi
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Your normal operation PSI - 7.5psi
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Shop tuned or self tuned - MazdaManiac
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Dyno'd HP/TQ (if you have) - N/A
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Fuel upgrades - Deatschwerks DW200 (255lph)/Factory injectors
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Cooling upgrades - BHR Racing Radiator, Fluidyne Row Oil cooler
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Exhaust type or diameter - 3" Dual Resonated RaceRoots mid-pipe
missing exhaust post mid-pipe
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Cat or catless - Catless
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Driving style (DD/heavy foot/so on) - DD/occasional autocross/
heavy canyon runs
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Average time under boost per day - avg daily, <5 min
autocross/canyon runs ~20 min
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Total cost (ball park) for turbo/install/tune - $5200 w/ rebuild and tune
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Personal comments about your setup.
Found the car with half the GReddy turbo kit and a blown motor. Reman was installed by an independent shop by the 3rd party dealer where I purchased the car. The reman was installed incorrectly where they mixed the fuel injector harness as well as other mistakes as I discovered going into the build.

I purchased the COBB AP but couldn't start a proper tune until after the reman started to lose compression and had it rebuilt by Pettit Racing.

Fuel pump was replaced as a reliability item rather than because of lack of fuel provided.

Car runs great currently but does heat up quite a bit on boost even with the 3rd oil cooler and a huge aftermarket oil pan (RX8Performance). I am missing the plastic under tray so I'm hoping having that replaced fixes my issues.
Car does not heat up at any point under normal daily driving.

rotaryboyz33

Make year of car (motor if changed) - 2005
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Transmission type -swapped 4AT for 6MT
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Average high and low temp in area of operation -190-215
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Altitude -
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Fuel grade -95
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Oil type/grade -20w-50
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Plug type/deg -bur7eq Lead bur9eq Trail
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Miles on motor before turbo -145,000
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Miles with turbo -1000
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Blown motors -1
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Reason / what broke -side seal spring failure
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Turbo kit -custom gt30R
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PCM/ECU -int-x
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Lowest PSI and highest PSI you run -7
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Your normal operation PSI -7
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Shop tuned or self tuned -shop tuned
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Dyno'd HP/TQ (if you have) -220
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Fuel upgrades -bosch 1000cc secondary, aeromotive stealth
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Cooling upgrades -mishimoto rad
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Exhaust type or diameter -custom 3 inch
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Cat or catless -catless
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Driving style (DD/heavy foot/so on) -dd/autox
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Average time under boost per day -unsure
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Total cost (ball park) for turbo/install/tune -3k
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Personal comments
i love it, spools up quick and sounds great. im currently down on rebuild, its my first blown motor but my rebuild is long overdue.

alxpro

Make year of car (motor if changed) -2004 6 port
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Transmission type - manual
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Average high and low temp in area of operation - 50 to 92
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Altitude - Athens,Greece
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Fuel grade - 93
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Oil type/grade - 10w 30 idemitsu
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Plug type/deg - NGK Iridium
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Miles on motor before turbo - 85k on first motor, 87k on new motor
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Blown motors - 1
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Reason / what broke - Apex seals in rear rotor
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Turbo Kit - Custom Kit 3071r
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PCM/ECU - Cobb tuned by Easytuning
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Lowest PSI and highest PSI you run - 5psi-8psi
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Your normal operation PSI - 8psi
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Shop tuned or self tuned - Cobb tuned by Easytuning
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Dyno'd HP/TQ (if you have) - 295hp on 8psi
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Fuel upgrades - Aeromotive fuel pump 340
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Cooling upgrades - DNA Air filter
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Exhaust type or diameter - Custom full exhaust
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Cat or catless - Catless
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Driving style (DD/heavy foot/so on) - heavy foot
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Average time under boost per day - 30%
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Total cost (ball park) for turbo/install/tune - 6000$

slash128

Make year of car (motor if changed) - 2006 GT
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Transmission type - 6sp MT
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Average high and low temp in area of operation - 45F-100F during the seasons I drive
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Altitude - 2000 feet
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Fuel grade - 92
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Oil type/grade - 10w30
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Plug type/deg - Autolite AR3932 Leading and Trailing gapped to 0.025"
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Miles on motor before turbo - 65K
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Miles with turbo - 20K
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Blown motors - 1
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Reason / what broke - faulty fuel injector, went lean, blew apex seal
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Turbo kit - PTP exhaust pipes, FMIC and some charge pipes, rest custom
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PCM/ECU - Stock ECU flash tuned with Cobb AP and ATR
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Lowest PSI and highest PSI you run - 0 lowest while tuning, 17 highest
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Your normal operation PSI - 8 current
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Shop tuned or self tuned - self
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Dyno'd HP/TQ (if you have) - 430rwhp/294tq
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Fuel upgrades - Walbro 255, now stock pump, yellow, uncapped yellow injectors
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Cooling upgrades - Exhaust wrap and heat shields
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Exhaust type or diameter - AP midpipe, MS catback
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Cat or catless -
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Driving style (DD/heavy foot/so on) - DD/heavy foot mix
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Average time under boost per day - 50%
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Total cost (ball park) for turbo/install/tune - $4500 ($1k for PTP pipes, $1.5k for turbo, $500 for AP, $2.5k for misc parts, revisions to date, etc.)
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Personal comments about your setup. (likes/dislikes) - Has been a fun project and great learning experience. No piggyback, which kept things simpler and lower cost for me.

Bmfrotary

I was pretty impressed actually. Lost by 1 car length to a stage 1 neon srt turbo manual trans. He didn't believe me that my 08 is stock with an auto. But now I'm determined. I'm working on my 06 20b turbo now but will be a while before she's done. How well and what combination of fuel mixtures and tunes and turbo sizes work best with the auto

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Was the SRT4 running on three cylinders? And why are you posting in this thread about it?

yurcivicsux

Make year of car (motor if changed) – 2005 GT
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Transmission type – MT 6spd
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Average high and low temp in area of operation 7c- 35c (45f-100f)
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Altitude – 1,800
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Fuel grade -94
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Oil type/grade -10w-40
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Plug type/deg –NGK R7420-105 (x4) with AEM marine coils
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Miles on motor before turbo – 100,000
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Miles with turbo – 2,500 on re-build
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Blown motors - 1
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Reason / what broke – corner seal, detonation/ age/ ignition failure
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Turbo kit –Greddy/ BNR turbo
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PCM/ECU – Adaptronic select
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Lowest PSI and highest PSI you run – 0-16psi
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Your normal operation PSI – 12psi
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Shop tuned or self tuned – shop (rxtuning and performance)
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Dyno'd HP/TQ (if you have) – 325hp/ 280tq on 16 psi
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Fuel upgrades – Walbro 255, yellow/ yellow uncapped injectors/ water meth
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Cooling upgrades – heat shield for down pipe
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Exhaust type or diameter – turboxs 3”
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Cat or catless – catless
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Driving style (DD/heavy foot/so on) – conservative DD, highway pulls.
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Average time under boost per day - 50
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Total cost (ball park) for turbo/install/tune – 6k parts and tune, did install myself

comments:
don't boost a high mileage engine, rely only on yourself. be prepared to spend good money.

Blackwell

Make year of car (engine if changed) - 2004 180xxxkm (110Miles)(originally US car imported during recession maybe second engine)
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Transmission type - 6MT
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Average high and low temp in area of operation - -10C to 35C
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Altitude - Sea Level
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Fuel grade - 94 Oct Candian rating ( I think is slightly different from US like beer)
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Oil type/grade - 10w40 Motul synthetic No OMP Premix 65:1
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Plug type/deg - NGK Oem spec
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Kilometers on motor before turbo - Possibly 180,000km or less not enough history known
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Kilometers with turbo - Just a few so far
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Blown motors - None by me
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Reason / what broke -
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Turbo kit - T3/T4 T04E with homemade manifold, Low mount
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PCM/ECU - Haltech Elite 1500
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Lowest PSI and highest PSI you run - Wastegate pressure 8psi
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Your normal operation PSI - Wastegate pressure 8psi
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Shop tuned or self tuned - Self cobbled
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Dyno'd HP/TQ (if you have) -
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Fuel upgrades - OE yellow primaries, 950 cc Subaru style secondaries. Only 4 Injectors.
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Cooling upgrades - A/C radiator removed
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Exhaust type or diameter - 2.5" Down Pipe 2.5" Cat back
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Cat or catless - Hollowed out.
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Driving style (DD/heavy foot/so on) - Secondary pleasure vehicle. Respectably heavy foot.
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Average time under boost per day - On/Off/On/Off Love the sound
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Total cost (ball park) for turbo/install/tune - Car $1500, Parts $3000, ECU $2400 + No tune Yet = $6900 CDN (approx $1500 USD I think)
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Just got plates on the car and it has turned out exactly as I hoped. Turbo is really responsive and has added gobs of torque in the mid range driving rpms. Need to get a good tune done on it soon, but for now it's real fun booting around and the spool up sounds great.

jcbrx8

Joshua A Biggs

Hey I have a few questions if your still around in 2019 🙄

C-J

Car year: 2005
Transmission Type; MT
Average temps: 60-90F
Alt: 100ft ASL
Fuel grade: 100 RON 95 equivelent
Oil type: Idemetsu 10w30
Plug: stock
Miles before turbo: 45000
Miles with: 5000
Blown motors: 0
Turbo kit: Greddy
Fuel Management: mazdaedit
Low/High PSI: 6/9.5psi
Normal op: 6-7 psi
Tuner: Easy Tuning Greece
Fuel upgrades: 1000cc injectors
Exhaust: Greddy catless w/ dual resonators.
Driving style: It's driven hard 50% of the time.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Would be a good idea to put some colder plugs (9 heat range) in Leading .....

strokercharged95gt

Just realized that I don't believe I ever filled this out.

Make year of car (motor if changed) - 2004 (REW motor from a junkyard JDM FD)
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Transmission type - 5 FD Transmission, SPEC twin disc
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Average high and low temp in area of operation - 40-95 F
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Altitude - Sea Level
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Fuel grade - 93 / ethanol (E45 mix) w/ water/methanol injection
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Oil type/grade - 10w-40 (whichever is cheapest)
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Plug type/deg - BR10EIX gapped about 0.025"
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Miles on motor before turbo - #1 ~105k for MSP motor
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Miles with turbo ~ 10-12k
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Blown motors - 2
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Reason / what broke
- #1: Detonated running over 20 psi on 93 octane, chipped apex seal, no damage to motor.
- #2: Collapsed exhaust PPort, blocking exhaust gas from escaping front rotor, no other damage to motor
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Turbo kit - 2" Schedule 40 Mild Steel Manifold (0.165 wall), 3" down-pipe, 50mm JGS Wastegate, BWS362SXE
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PCM/ECU - OEM w/ Adaptronics Select
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Lowest PSI and highest PSI you run: 15-28 psi
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Your normal operation PSI: 25
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Shop tuned or self tuned - Self Tuned
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Dyno'd HP/TQ (if you have) - Based on fuel calculation from recent log (6,038 cc/min of fuel being injected at 7,967 RPMs at 45% ethanol), turbo is hitting 71.88 lbs of air (3.12 lbs from max on the turbo).542 rotary rwhp/357 rw torque at ~8,000 RPMs, likely a few percent less as this assumes optimal timing, etc.
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Fuel upgrades - 1000 cc/min P1 injectors, 1000 cc/min P2 injectors, 1,650 cc/min secondary injectors, FFE fuel rail with 6 injectors, 8 AN feed, 6 AN return, Surge Tank, Dual Bosch 044 fuel pumps, OEM lift pump, Fuel Lab FPR, GM Ethanol Sensor
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Cooling upgrades - Stock fans, Mishimoto radiator, 170 degree thermostat
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Exhaust type or diameter - 3" custom exhaust with HKS muffler
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Cat or catless - Whats a cat?
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Driving style (DD/heavy foot/so on) - I only drive for the adrenaline, no traffic for me.
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Average time under boost per day:- I only drive it a few times a month, then its WOT whenever I can.
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Total cost (ball park) for turbo/install/tune:

Turbo kit was like $3,000 to make including turbo, intercooler, wastegate, BOV, and raw tubing/weld els/flanged
Engine was about $2,000 for all the big components, probably another $1,000 on seals and closing kits, etc.
Tuning was free if you don't count the $1,500 ECU and wideband sensors
Swap kit was like $1000 for Banzai cradle, low-profile oil pan, and FD motor mounts

Personal comments about your setup. (likes/dislikes)

Pushing the limits and working on improvements provides more satisfaction than the vehicle itself. You could also own this car for not much more money then a renesis rebuild.