Originally Posted by JoeMin
(Post 4148670)
How much would it be to upgrade to a ball bearing GT35R?
Thanks, Joe |
Originally Posted by shr3da
(Post 4148663)
How long until you guys release a low mount, will you be able to use a BB GT35?
People want to keep their OMP, you need to offer low mount and top mount to your customers. We do make a low mount kit.... Same price, only major differences are its only available with a Ball Bearing GT35R with a Tial 1.03 vband turbine housing, and it doesn't come with the hardlined radiator lines as they aren't necessary. Obviously you can retain your OMP if you wish. And for those asking about longevity, I have another forum members car under the knife for out top mount system. I will be dyno tuning this car with the adaptronic ECU, and we will see how long one lasts around 400rwhp... |
Wouldn't the new GTX3576 be a better fit?
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4148704)
Wouldn't the new GTX3576 be a better fit?
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Seems to me in the overall scheme of things that is a relatively minimal upgrade :dunno:
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Originally Posted by shr3da
(Post 4148663)
how long until you guys release a low mount, will you be able to use a bb gt35?
People want to keep their omp, you need to offer low mount and top mount to your customers.
Originally Posted by joemin
(Post 4148670)
how much would it be to upgrade to a ball bearing gt35r?
Thanks, joe
Originally Posted by turblown
(Post 4148654)
it might be easier/faster to just start emailing me direct; turblown@gmail.com
read what he said |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4148741)
read what he said
I did, but that is good information for everyone to know. Questions specific to me, I will email him. |
Originally Posted by Turblown
(Post 4148691)
Another $499, it doesn't make any difference however.. Only on large frame turbos I've been able to notice. I even did a back to back( was different cars however) and spool was within 50 rpms of a journal bearing unit...
Sorry just wanted to make sure I'm clear on this... It was Approx. $2000 for the manifold, dp and journal bearing GT35R? Approx $2499 to get that same kit with the BB GT35R? I see you noticed miniumal spooling changes between the two but what about turbo longevity between the Journal and BB... or does having it water cooled make their lives relatively the same? Edit: I guess that I'll also add in that, my plans would be to integrate this mani/dp/turbo to my greddy piping/ic/etc and my target WHP goals are between 350 and 400..... I realize there are other upgrades need to hit a goal such as that and I'm very aware of what they are; most of which I already have.... just didnt want to clutter this thread. |
Price does not include the turbo just DP, Manifold and New Motor Mount. At low boost pressures zero difference in longevity, in my experience the journal bearings turbos seem to always last longer..
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Ah yes... good reading skills on my part :pat: ... either way this is still very high on my wishlist of upgrades for my GReddy kit :icon_tup:
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Why is the low mount kit gonna be priced the same as the top mount, isn't there less fabrication like the hardlined radiator lines ? :(
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Uses a Tial housing( and Tial flanges/clamps are A LOT more than regular stuff). Tial turbine housing requires BB upgrade instantly.
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He hasn't even seen the price for that yet, lol
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Turblown, I have noticed most of your kits come with or customers add water injection to them, are you having more success with them?
there are more threads that say its not worth it, or useless. I was curious of your experience with it so far? |
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 4148478)
If not I do wonder about the air pressure in the engine bay or maybe the IC is actually pretty much sealed from the engine bay once the hood is down?
It is a nice set up. Where is his turbo air intake? |
Originally Posted by Turblown
(Post 4148361)
Ignition coil upgrade and a midpipe/catback
BHR ignition, BHR midpipe, Greddy Exhaust, AEM intake, Cobb AP, Mazmart Remedy pump and thermostat, ACT flywheel/clutch. So...assuming about 350 wHP (low mount) do you recommend any other upgrades? All I would need to get is your base kit (I think you said $6.5k...I'm planning)? Any other suggestions? Catch can for external 2 stroke? The last thing I want is for this thing to start having issues during a race cause I didnt plan properly (like insufficient cooling, other supportive mods, etc). EDIT: I have another question but this is more of a what do you think for everyone. I was reviewing the dyno sheet for the 425 wHP pull and saw peek power around 8300 rpm's. Would it make sense to shift around 8400 rpm since it starts to fall off slightly at that point? I'm asking this with reguard to logevity. Whats the point of pushing it further to redline? EDIT 2: your lamborghini parts link at the bottom of the Turboblown webpage goes to the Rx8 Special offers page! LMAO!!! :evil_laug :rollingla EDIT 3: I assume battery relocation is extra since I only saw mention of it needing to be done but no hardware being included to do it? |
Originally Posted by Turblown
(Post 4148654)
On a side note, I looked again there is NO way to fit a nice top mount turbo manifold with the OMP. If you want to run the OMP you must by a low mount turbo system.
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Originally Posted by cavemancan
(Post 4156476)
OK...here are my modifications and you tell me what you personally would be comfortable with considering the car see's track use once per month and is daily driven:
BHR ignition, BHR midpipe, Greddy Exhaust, AEM intake, Cobb AP, Mazmart Remedy pump and thermostat, ACT flywheel/clutch. So...assuming about 350 wHP (low mount) do you recommend any other upgrades? All I would need to get is your base kit (I think you said $6.5k...I'm planning)? Any other suggestions? Catch can for external 2 stroke? The last thing I want is for this thing to start having issues during a race cause I didnt plan properly (like insufficient cooling, other supportive mods, etc). EDIT: I have another question but this is more of a what do you think for everyone. I was reviewing the dyno sheet for the 425 wHP pull and saw peek power around 8300 rpm's. Would it make sense to shift around 8400 rpm since it starts to fall off slightly at that point? I'm asking this with reguard to logevity. Whats the point of pushing it further to redline? EDIT 2: your lamborghini parts link at the bottom of the Turboblown webpage goes to the Rx8 Special offers page! LMAO!!! :evil_laug :rollingla EDIT 3: I assume battery relocation is extra since I only saw mention of it needing to be done but no hardware being included to do it? I would shift at peak torque, or slightly after depending upon gearing. Plan you shifts so you carry the highest amount of peak torque for the longest time. I have discontinued our Lamborghini parts, getting sick and tired of working with those guys. I prefer to work with enthusiasts who car about going fast, not looking cool.. |
Originally Posted by Turblown
(Post 4156542)
I would also run a lot colder race plugs for track use, something in the 10 L 11 T heat range if road course racing. You should be at 350rwhp with our low mount kit with your existing mods.
I would shift at peak torque, or slightly after depending upon gearing. Plan you shifts so you carry the highest amount of peak torque for the longest time. I have discontinued our Lamborghini parts, getting sick and tired of working with those guys. I prefer to work with enthusiasts who car about going fast, not looking cool.. Peak torque? Really? Peak torque on the 425 wHP pull was around 7500 rpm but power was still sky rocketing at that point. Wouldn't 8300 (maybe even 8k) ish rpm make more sense or are you referring to logevity/reliability like I stated in my post? Would it be possible to tune for a higher torque average (across a certain RPM range) with this setup and maybe even lower the redline a tad? or would that better be addressed with a different size turbo? |
Originally Posted by Turblown
(Post 4156542)
I would shift at peak torque, or slightly after depending upon gearing. Plan you shifts so you carry the highest amount of peak torque for the longest time.
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Bump
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Originally Posted by cavemancan
(Post 4156562)
How will the colder plugs affect street use? Any different then the plugs you already include in the kit?
Peak torque? Really? Peak torque on the 425 wHP pull was around 7500 rpm but power was still sky rocketing at that point. Wouldn't 8300 (maybe even 8k) ish rpm make more sense or are you referring to logevity/reliability like I stated in my post? Would it be possible to tune for a higher torque average (across a certain RPM range) with this setup and maybe even lower the redline a tad? or would that better be addressed with a different size turbo? I did just make a long writeup but it was just deleted, and I don't feel like retyping. Get yourself a Vbox and you can determine your shift points based on acceleration rates.. |
You can get the NGK race plug down to a 9 heat range which isn't too bad for the street except maybe in the far north during the winter
A general rule is to shift at or just after the hp peak . |
i know turblown has been kicking around the low mount turbo system for awhile now. im intrested in the setup now since my oil lines and setup are in the way.
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Redesign, round 2
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