Stock Dyno 230WHP???
 

Just got a baseline Dyno done today before I start with some extensive modifications. Pulled two times in 4th and generated a consistent 214WHP and did the last pull in 5th and got 230WHP. The 5th gear pull is expected to be more than all other gears considering it is the 1:1 ratio gear for the car. I wasn't even holding my breath braking 200hp, but to get 230WHP on a stock 04 GT with 24K on the motor seems massive to me. Anyone seen anything close to similar on a stock pull

:suspect:

See the text at the bottom of that chart?

I'd suspect something else going on rather than a true power measurement.

Yeaaaaaaah no.

What's funny is that I make more torque than you but like 35 less RWHP. It'd be interesting to see it Dyno'd at another facility to see what it's actually putting out...

That engine must have been assembled by employee of the year with special tools and shit.

that's hard to believe but if its real wow, and congrats!

Interesting.
I would like to read more about all your thoughts on this.

RIWWP knows I've been on a bit of a dyno quest of wtf is going on here.

I'm going to grab popcorn and hope this thread produces some good content.

I would guess that it was flashed with a different map with an AP maybe? Either way, that's pretty awesome heh

Please don't treat it like an accurate dyno reading.


Or rather, if you do, there is a dyno around showing Jedi54 hitting 1,000whp on a dyno with his naturally aspirated RX-8.

Hell, I have a dyno that read over 700wtq on my 8 with just a midpipe and MM AP calibration...



The question is more about why it read so high.

Especially with this being a Mustang Dyno. Those are known to reading low.

So can you bias the dyno settings somehow to give you what you want.

The hub dyno's I've seen have a setting where u tell the computer what the gear ratios are going to be, at least I thought that was what being setup

Correct.

I don't pretend to be an expert on dynos, but they use various physics and sensors to produce electrical voltages / current that is used to measure the power output of the car. Software, at some inherent level, has to take that incoming data and interpret it . Run calculations, etc... This is at the core of the differences from one dyno type to the next. Different dyno types measure different things in different ways.

And if we assume that the baked in calculations aren't flexible in any way, nearly every dyno I have heard of allows for operator variables, such as total gear ratio, spark plug firing cycle, SAE correction, etc... Even things like an automatic barometer / temperature gauge could be off calibration, making a CORRECT SAE adjustment move too far from accurate.

I would dearly love to spend a day with a dyno operator discussing what they are doing how and why as they dyno cars. More than just simple question and answer, but challenging them on what they do and what they don't do. But I've never run into a dyno operator that would be willing to put up with this from me :lol:

Really the way to test if its a dyno operator' fault, is to take it to another dyno and see the result, if there is barely any difference then you may really have yourself a winner

sounds like some shenanigans to me. i wish i could have 230 whp stock...

When I had mine dyno'd a couple weeks ago, it was on a Mustang dyno too. The first pull showed 207whp and 193wtq in 4th gear on a bone stock 90k mi engine.
When I said that seemed high, the tech made a few clicks with the mouse to adjust some corrections and magically it was 186whp and 160wtq.
I told him that was a little closer to what I expected.
We did 2 more pulls in 3rd gear and after a few more clicks of the mouse, it was 160whp and 120wtq (ish) on both runs.
I am going to run it at another shop on a Dynojet for comparison in the next week or so.

Looks like the dyno got a bit too excited

04 model with only 24 K miles?? Not driven much:)
This is a good lesson in how to really use the dyno. Its NOT about the numbers--its about the change. Dyno--add a part or do a tune--re-dyno. Did it help or hurt? Thats the purpose of the dyno.
Sounds like you are going to be modifing the car--so getting base pull is the correct thing to do. Whatever dyno shop you choose-stick with it and the same operator as you do your mods.
Good luck and let us know how it all turns out.

This is another good example of why "cheap", ie inertial dynos, are inferior to true brake dynos. They calculate hp/torque based on a physics model and don't measure it directly. It can only do that while accelerating, not while holding a constant rpm.

If I'm not mistaken, shouldn't "Filter Mode" be "SAE" with a "smoothing factor" of like 5 or so, in order to produce a more-accurate dyno figure?

looks like the dyno was calibrated up to aproximate engine crank numbers

Did the dyno operator calibrate your run for 5th gear? I don't know that much about dyno's but when I put mine on a mustang dyno the operator had me hold my rpms at 3000 for some sort of calibration in which gear I was doing my pull in. I made 195 RWHP with all my mods and with MM's tuning. I gave him the results and he took one last look at my tune and said there wasn't anything more he could do, I was spot on and he was impressed with what I made at the wheels. Mustangs are supposed to run lower than a dynojet.

Considering Eric Meyer put 233 down at the wheels with his I would say your results are far away from reality.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/233-rwhp-dyno-sheet-218322/

Hilarious thread. I have a bridge in NY I can sell you cheap.