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No it was probably the sole reason the KR stopped. The most likely reason why it started having knock is the IAT was not accounted for in timing. Move your IAT and then tune it out.
Sorry, that didn't come out the way I meant. What I meant by that was I wonder if I hadn't changed the timing would it still be getting pulled in the cooler weather.
Apparently you mistook me for someone who values your opinion in that regard.
That you do exactly what you complain about is par for the course.
Originally Posted by slash128
Sorry to hear about your friend. I will say it seems highly insensitive of you to pull them into the forum and use as your defense. Which brings me to the reason I've been on your case lately. You come off very insensitive. You don't give others the same courtesy you are asking for. You don't live up to the same expectations you demand of everyone else. They call that hypocrisy. Maybe the reason you get a bunch of crap from people is because your people skills are lacking. Sure, you don't have to care about others opinions. Likewise no one has to care about yours.
You often have good information but when it's tainted with nastiness people will ignore it. Just my advice to you. Take or leave it. But don't cry when people toss your **** back in your yard.
I feel better now knowing you're not worked up any more ....
I'm as confused as an hormone charged 16 year old girl...
Team loves me...
Team loves me not....
I love you Team and I really felt we had something special but honestly I just can't look at you the same since you took the bag off your avatar's head
Did a few more logs today, still no sign of KR timing getting pulled since I pulled back 2 degrees in the tune. Weather is still much cooler than previous logs, 10-20 degrees cooler. Either way I am happier with this. Thanks for the advice Harlan!
And the resulting dip to corespond with the change
It would seem like you need to focus more on adjusting your ignition vs load and IAT vs load maps
.
Thanks Team! In all seriousness I truly appreciate the advice without condescension
If you are referring to the dip at 5500-6500 where I made the timing change that was there before but it is less pronounced now. I agree, I've definitely still got some work to do. Its been a bit difficult to get good logs. I've got limited time during the week so to keep my travel short the options for roads only allow 2'nd gear logs, but I get wheel spin on nearly every run.... Good problem to have! I need to take some time to get some good 3'rd gear logs.
My sincere thoughts are with you and your friend....
what tires/size are you running?
I meant to ask you what you were doing for injectors. I remember us having some small talk about trusting the uncapped yellows. I can't remember if you switched injectors or not. I should really be more active on the forum that way I don't have to ask stupid questions
No worries man! So much information in this forum keeping up is a full time job lol.
Currently RE11 255/35 on the front and DZ102 275/35 rear. I was running the same size NT01 on the rear but they were toast earlier this year. The rears now are not great tires, I just wanted something fairly cheap for now. They have a pretty high wear rating which probably contributes to the lack of traction. They slip pretty good quite a bit in second and sometimes in third. The fronts are about done now so looking at options. The local track is hosting some rolling start drag sessions and I'd like to go so I may need to get serious about tire selection.
Running stock yellows in P1 and ID1000 in all others. Yes I do distrust my uncapped yellows in particular, but not necessarily all uncapped yellows in general. The reason why is because after I popped my motor last year and got things back together I was noticing it running leaner than previously without even boosting. I was working isolating the fuel system components when talking to Fazda he suggested scaling the P2s drastically, look for a change and then repeat with the Aux. Well I can't remember which but one of those changes resulted in AFR change but the other did not so it seems at least one injector in the set was not functioning properly.
I was contemplating ID725 in the P1 position. I believe they use the same body as the 1000 and I confirmed Team's statement that the 1000 fits in the P1 position while I was swapping around. The reason I haven't yet is because I have a bit of idle oscillation now. I think it's a combo of the lengthened distance between the MAF and O2 sensor plus slightly larger yellow vs red. My thinking is that the MAF reads a slight change, the computer adjusts but then the O2 doesn't read until after the computer expects to see the change so it corrects the other direction. At so low idle airflow the margin for error is very low. Having larger yellow injectors increased the 'sloppiness' factor. I suspect even larger 725's will exacerbate the issue. I tested my thought about the long intake by shortening the intake a couple feet and it calmed things down. But it put my MAF in the engine bay where it was hot and I noticed it started building high idle trims. So I moved it back out front and raised the idle a touch more and it's not so lumpy.
Possibly consider putting a GM IAT sensor pre-TB with a rewire from the MAF for that signal and then IAT map recalibration. I think that will help you on the other timing issue as well.
09-01-2015, 05:48 PM
