Rx8 Greddy Turbo from brazil - 305.8whp with 10psi now...
 

hi every one,

First of all i would like to thank very much every one over here for there many helpfull explanations... it was this group that made it possible for me to go ahead and turbo my pet :D

i got my greddy turbo a little over a month, and had it installed with some very skillfull personel over here in brazil. instalation wasnt that much smooth i thought it would.... my emanage unit was unresponsive some how.

so we took a different aproach to the problem, but very comon here in brazil.
i had and extra injector placed before the trottle body! to control the injector i had unichip controling the injector.

this setup made possible for the car's ecu to run for its own as the extra fuel is being managed by the unichip unit. so no CEL light for me... until now at least.

i am also able to run the car at a very rich configuration (i use it a lot for track days)
i also removed the catalitic conversor. and you folks have to remind that over here in brazil we have a 25% alchool add to the gasoline (we get better horse power then the people without it.) explains why i have more horse power then every one over US even with the standard greddy setup.

so far we havent come up with some major problems but i'll be asking a lot of help!!! as i increase the turbo pressure. we realy expect to hit 300whp with around 10psi :confused:

what cc is that extra injector

it is a alchool unit for a 4 cilinder single injector....meaning... should be around 1500cc give or take 200cc...

i'll check it up with the shop to give you precise mesurement

frogot the most important..... graphs...


http://www.multiturbo.com.br/images/RX8_P.jpg
http://www.multiturbo.com.br/images/RX8_T.jpg

and....
the very first track day....

http://www.oktaneclub.com/index.php?...howtopic=49381

Your dyno chart is showing 288.1 whp, but you said it was 255.5?
How much PSI were you running when you got the 288.1 run?

nope this dyno is on to the fly weel.... the peak was acctualy 290.1hp
it is 5psi right now...
i'll be moving it to 10psi next week after this sunday's track day....

i'll post the dynos for the whp.... have to get them on the shop monday...

Whatever happened to this? Did you get a dyno chart for wheel horse power?

Won't the factory ecu learn and cut fuel to the factory injectors to compensate for your extra injector?

yep and no....
right now we are taking a beat setting things up... some times i have a lean run and some times a rich run.... without moving a single thing on the setup.
so far i am having runs with 340hp to the engine... about 305whp with .7bar on the beggining and dropping to .5bar at the end...

i'll have pictures and movies when every thing is set.

from what i have seen on my car the ecu regulates the fuel from what it sees on the o2 sensor... what i do is to put in the difference and let the car do the rest.

but, for this second time that we start re setting up the car something is going bad...
i tend to think that it might be the maf.....hopefully we will find out....

It sounds like you can use a new stand alone ECU. The Mazsport ECU may be of great benefit. Have you looked into this yet?

Not to be the bearer of bad news, but I am sure your problems are unfixable using your setup and just trying to tune it out. You cannot just squirt fuel in and expect the factory ecu to just accept it. As soon as the O2 sensors see a rich condition it will pull fuel from the factory injectors bringing the A/F back to normal conditions, which are not appropriate for a turbo'd engine as it will be too lean. You gotta add the thermostat dongle that comes with the greddy kit which causes the factory ecu to ignore the O2 sensors, or get a stand alone. Otherwise the ecu will continue to adapt and you risk blowing the engine if it goes too lean.

happy ending of phase 2
 

hi,
before answering any post, i would like to tell every one, that these last 2 days were very exiting for me...
i had many deceptions, desperation, and happyness in the end :D

we made 1 extra mod to the car other then the eletronics, beeing we added a solenoid to control de boost... this way we could control better the delivery of power.

at the end we decided to keep the car with ONLY 305whp YES....305WHP.
mainly because, my intentions are to use this poor thing on the tracks most of its life time... given that it is running pig rich, not a lot of advance, and i have moved the rpm cut of to 9000 rpm
pressure is at 0.7bar at the beggining and it drops to 0.5bar at the end of the curve... (car handles better on the track)

the ecu is running free of any dongles.

we had a couple of runs with almost 1 bar
that got us with 354WHP.... and made the car a lousy and dangerously lean (for a track day point of view)

however, i think it proved that this kit is very good in producing quite high hp delivery, dough not very usable :D

the files hpmotor final.jpg, torque final.jpg and setup final.jpg are the graphs for final setup (hpmotor final = hp to the engine) (setup final = hp to the engine and to the weels)

the file hproda 19.jpg is the in between test run that we disaproved for the car...

i still have a lot of troubles to resolve and apreciate ideas to solve it
the first one is ... now i have my CEL light on all the time... it gets on my nerves, but that is about it.

the second and most trouble some for me is that: when i am on a high speed long (track) curve, i have to control the trottle very gently and steadly to be the fastest possible...
however at 5 to 7000rpm the car keeps puting the turbo in and out as i try to keep the trottle as steady as i can. this makes the car unstable and shaky makin it loose contact and becoming very hard to administer it. i think this is a BOV setup problem, but i dont have a good way to set it up.... does any body have a good lead on doing this...

one have to remember that it is only a race track problem.... this doesnt even apear on a every day drive... even very hard street driving.

these are some telephone pics (forgot my camera) of the final setup

and ower dyno

i havent seen a unit like that, but over here, in brazil, we got a sales rep of the unichip solution very close by, so it is very handy and safe for me...

plus the unit is very fast and versatile

so i think i am well served for now....
i want to be able to resolve the "turbo wable" during track curves dough....
so i will be trying just about any thing any time soon
:confused:

not at all, any help is apreciated, i think our car's ecu is smarter than we give credit for. there is a lot of things that dont mach, at least to my head.

example: how is it handling the maf readings ??

the o2 will not see a rich condition the way you are thinking...
that is because it will not be that rich...
why??? because the engine is receiving the right amount ... there is lots of air... and there is lots of fuel... result... just about the right burn (and reading from the o2 sensor)
as of now ... i am running extreemely rich... on purpose!!!

how the heck are you getting so much hp out of that thing? 354whp?! Jeez, what are you doing? That's like a 160-170 whp increase. Most of the kits here in the u.s haven't even touched 300.

I guess I was wrong when I thought this turbo was only good for 300. Not bad. Also is the unichip a standalone? Crazy 305 on 7 psi. and running pig rich.. :confused:

He's running at 0.7bar (10psi) and 0.5 bar holding (7psi). Also, he said they have 25% alcohol in their gas down there.

o ok, thanks for the clarification.

you must not forget that i completly deleted the resonator and the cat

also i have an extra injector located BEFORE the trottle body
it acts as a very very good hot air cooler

but besides that it is pretty much the same old greddy kit

however top hp is obtained with 0.5bar (7psi)... :D

So what is exact difference in HP (flywheels) and rear wheels? It's hard to read exact value from the graf.

Thank you
Ted