Sorry............I'm not up to date on this thread................So Denny......you didn't blow the old motor, just bad compression?
Have you or anybody really heard of someone blowing up an motor that's using a Pettit SC?

Thanks,

Dave

Correct and No
OD

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/portal/smiles/popcorn3.gif

What is it that constitutes a "blown" rotary anyway? I am only familiar with pistons hitting cylinder heads and connecting rods wrapping around crankshafts? Not to mention snapped cranks, lifted heads, etc.:lol2:

how about a banana in the tailpipe?

:rollingla

(in my whitest of whitebread voices), I'm not gonna fall for tha banana in the tailpipe.:)

:lol:

Eddie killed it in that first one!

I use a dab of rubber cement on vacuum fittings before connecting the hose, you can still twist it to remove it, but they stay in place once the rubber cement has set.

that was one of his best!!

I have another question regarding error codes. I got another code this morning when I started the car up. It was P0400 (Secondary Air intake malfunction). I cleared it and it hasn't come back but I don't know what would cause that. Anyone have any ideas? What would cause it?

Old trick ive learned over the years of dealing with rotorys, if you loss compression flood the engine with WD-40 and let it sit for a day and allow to disolve the carbon, try to start it, if it dosnt start replace or clean your plugs. It works about 3/4 of the time.

Welcome to the early 20th century. Ever hear of SeaFoam?

You might want to fire up the generator and read the TSB.

For anyone else reading this:
Putting WD-40 in your combustion chambers is not a good (or effective) thing.

Yeh, what he said,:rant:

True---!
Now i have another engine on the self--gives me some comfort. i know i can always sell it if I want and now that I have done it once--swapping the engine is really not that bad. Its work--but pretty straight forward.
by the way does the driveline cross members serve any purpose than protecting the driveline? I dont see how they stiffen the body much id at all.
olddragger

21st?

For the rest of us.
Not the "WD-40" crowd.
Or the MMO crowd, for that matter.

A backup is always good, its paid for, dont sell it.

I agree.
If anything, make some space and rebuild it.
Take your time and enjoy/learn the process.

The rotary motor is incredibly simple and Mazda has provided really great engineering notes to help you rebuild it properly.

Started experiencing another sound today and wanted to check to see if anybody has any ideas. Started getting a "chattering" noise at higher rpm's (above 7k) It seems to be doing it every time I get up in that range. My first instinct is that the belt is loose but is as tight as the tensioner makes it and still has a little slack. What would be the best way to describe the necessary tightness for the belts?

I think the belt is supposed to be tuned to C5.

Was there a flashing CEL associated with the sound?

Do you have a boost gauge installed??

I had to redo the belt adjuster so i could may the belt tighter. i have at the most 1/4 inch play in mine.
olddragger

I find myself a bit concerned that the required tension may be out of max spec for the belt.

No CEL.

Yes and everything looked normal

I have more than 1/4" play in mine. I would say it is something closer to an inch. Especially if you check the longest part.