Originally Posted by obliterx8 (Post 4849710)

A few incoherent thoughts:

First, looking good OtherSyde. I like to see other people taking their time and doing things right. And car parts in the kitchen? :ylsuper:

Is that Karropak stuff really going to work? It looks paper thin, not sure it's much of a gasket. I have no experience with it, maybe it does. Someone else provided this link for Viton sheet. I know Viton is a good high temp sealing material, so was thinking of going that route.

What intake is that? Looks similar in placement to the RX8Performance Greddy Turbo CAI. These go where the VFAD normally sits (above bumper crash bar). It seems like this would get much less airflow than an AEM/MS intake? I guess it's adequate there, even for FI? I was going to go AEM/MS for best airflow, but that does have the one negative of blocking/pulling more air away from the radiator.

Speaking of radiators, does anybody really need to upgrade theirs for this kit? I am getting the MazMart REmedy water pump and Tstat, will that be sufficient for street use? I was going to wait until everything else is in and then order radiators etc to fit what space is left. I also have the added challenge of having an AT, so would need a different trans cooler then too. Also, my Pettit coolers were damaged in shipping, so I need a replacement for them anyway and was thinking of getting one larger one instead of 2 in parallel. It's too hard to order this until I see what I can fit.

I might order a nicer tank for the Pettit cooling system. Would it hurt to have a pressurized tank? This system doesn't heat up much, right? Like 125F? Will the pump be OK? Maybe someone has a better pump to suggest?

I also seem to be missing the M6x30 studs, thanks for the info.

I am ordering gauges, just wanted some input. Am I missing anything?
-boost/vac
-AFR
-fuel pressure
-AIT
-oil pressure
-oil temp
-water temp
-water temp (S/C circuit)
-voltage
Probably overkill, but what the hell, do it right the first time.


Thanks guys.

Originally Posted by keck03 (Post 4907013)

Othersyde, I stumbled onto your youtube channel the other days. How do you like your mazdaedit tune? Have you seen the A/F logs under boost? Are you still on the stock injectors?

I am thinking about getting mine retuned. It has been on the rich side since I got it back after the reman swap. Its safe but I thinking I am leaving too much hp on the table. I am also sick of the stalling every time that the ECU has to relearn idle. Have you had that issue with the mazdaedit tune? I never had that problem back on the original EFI Dude tune

Originally Posted by keck03 (Post 4907013)

I am also sick of the stalling every time that the ECU has to relearn idle. Have you had that issue with the mazdaedit tune> I never had that problem back on the original EFI Dude tune

Originally Posted by OtherSyde (Post 4915647)

Wow, that Blitz setup is really something! I love to see different SC setups, but most have died off at this point (Blitz, Knight Sport, Hymee, and really even Pettit by now). Very neat and exotic, I love it! I wish someone in the US would simply scan this into some CNC machinery software and replicate the major pieces, it seems like a great little setup!

So I've had some belt issues lately, snapping my third belt today (the first one snapped back in December and a piece of the goddamn thing got wrapped around my eccentric shaft behind the main pulley and sliced open my front main seal causing oil to constantly squirt out of the front of the engine and coat everything with oil from the pulleys slinging it everywhere), so that was an expensive bitch and a half to get fixed - I got it repaired by by the resident Rotary Expert at Aero Automotive here in SoCal though, who I have to say did a great job at least). Finally figured out that it's because my tensioner pulley bracket was bent - likely from the previous owner having to torque down the tensioner to prevent belt slippage because they only had the stock Pettit pulley and not the wider 6-rib setup like I do now, which was causing the belt to constantly slide towards the forward edge of the pulley and rub against the pulley edge "wall", which was evidenced by the front-facing side of the belt always being frayed/mangled and stretched when they would fail. So, I got a long crowbar and wrapped it in cloth so as not to scratch anything, then leveraged it against the front/side of the compressor with the tip behind the back of the pulley-bracket, and managed to carefully bend it forward a few millimetres, and now the belt (I have multiple belts in my garage now because I ordered several on Amazon haha) is just about centered on the pulley and no longer forward or touching the edge of the pulley - you can see from the new contact patch/stripe on the pulley in the picture after a test drive. Sorry for the engine bay being so damned filthy right now - but fingers crossed, no more snapped belts! :eyetwitch

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0a1707dfd7.jpg
.
.
.
.
In other developments, I've been wondering for awhile why they ran the coolant loop return hose directly over the super-hot engine block and right between the super-hot alternator and compressor. I saw a picture online of a Pettit setup with the hose routed in a longer loop around the back and side of the engine bay, avoiding all the super hot stuff in the center altogether - and incidentally I had a bunch of hose left over from my install, so I mimicked that setup hoping to take a few extra degrees of heat out of the coolant loop. Also, unrelated, I painted my brake booster reservoir black with a yellow cap to match my windshield wiper fluid reservoir just to have a sense of symmetry.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...558993e605.jpg

Originally Posted by Red line envy (Post 4916120)

Short and simple question for the sc users.
is it worth it?

Originally Posted by Red line envy (Post 4916120)

Short and simple question for the sc users.
is it worth it?

Originally Posted by Red line envy (Post 4916405)

I have been wanting more out of it. I'm taking it slow though. I'm currently in the market for a Cobb or somthing of the sort (open to recommendations). I have most upgrade besides some cooling upgrades which is proly next on the list of things. Working toward SC. I feel Turbo just adds to the already high heat in the engine bay.

Originally Posted by Madtaz (Post 4916261)

Snapping belts is usually a result of the charger leaning forward under boost. I suspect the bracket at the rear is worn or broken. It was never really up to the job so best to fabricate a new bracket to hold the rear of the charger down.

Originally Posted by Red line envy (Post 4916405)

...I feel Turbo just adds to the already high heat in the engine bay.

Originally Posted by obliterx8 (Post 4916463)

jcbrx8, what tanks are those on the passenger firewall? Brand and size/part #?

I've been looking for a different solution and that looks pretty nice.

Originally Posted by jorx7 (Post 4916416)

what year is your car ???

Originally Posted by jcbrx8 (Post 4916450)

I'll have to differ w/you there. I've a low mount turbo. Minimal additional heat in the engine bay, and 400+ HP, 280+ lbft. :dunno:
.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...aa9d1b733.jpeg

Originally Posted by OtherSyde (Post 4916534)

On a stock block? Or a built/hardened or ported engine?

Also the issue with turbo wasn't really the extra heat in the engine bay, but the extra heat on the internal seals resulting from the hot turbo exhaust manifold and back-pressure, which tends to be worse on the Renesis because of our shitty EPA-compliant side-ports versus the REW's ports.