we are here for ya man.
Actually I think the Frankenstein kit is going to look good under there--like mad max or something.

Thanks for not flaming me:) and for your constructive feedback.

Regarding:
1- I believed this did not work like in a Otto engine, but increased EGT etc..? I saw MM stated this some time ago, what have I missed?

3- This should be something pettit UK is aware of?

4- Have a catless 3" Racing Beat exhaust for the moment(2,5" flanges though), but a cat would be nice to have(no worries when emission controls are every 2nd year)

5- Count this as a part of tuning, but thanks for the reminder

6- Already have purchased the walbro from BHR

7- A good/"hot" summer day in Norway is 77°K(25°C). (Official record is 95°K:)) So what you say is that I'll most likely be fine, but change thermostat( most likely I'll upgrade my radiator to be safe)

9- But wont you loose some low end torque by lock it open? But this might be negligible? And what is the danger by don't locking it? Very high pressure at the inlet manifold?

Welcome to the SC brotherhood:
1- w/m system is not for egt's--its about lowering the charge temps and keeping the engine as carbon free as possible. It is not a mandatory thing to do--if you have a good conservative tune and good gas you will be fine with the lower boost pulley--with the higher boost pulley IDK--I think you would want it for the insurance.
2- Pettit--sells what they sell. Those coolers will be fine for the street and the occasional run through the gears type of thing. If you are going to track or do mountain runs etc a larger cooler will help. The Pettit coolers were also designed for the system before they offered a higher boost pulley. The higher boost will put more demand on the a/w intercooling system.
3- yep--the flanges are the restriction. What is the point of going with higher boost if you dont remove those exhaust restrictions?
4- youre welcome!
5- walbro? Ok. Ray will take care of you if you have a problem with it. You can count on him. But, I much prefer the S2 assembly.
6- Hot day is 77F? that sure sounds good--and it will help a lot.
7- nope--think about why and get back to me. But. this is an optional thing, you dont have to, but after you drive with it configured per oem-lock it open ( just a temp plastic tie around the mechanism ) and see what you think. Mine you --watch your tune when doing this. if your a/f's dont keep up dont put any load on it.

If you figure out how to get your intake to allow more flow your pressure will drop yet your engine will make more power. It also helps with intake air temps. Your intake was designed to run under vac not boost. It also helps with low end power to open them. You can keep your rpms down and short shift alot. That helps with seal wear and saves your engine.

moon is as smart as ever!

Thanks for the compliment Denny. I coulda even argued that till about a week ago. I never thought id see the day.

Dang--straight A's!! Congrats man.
I guess I will need to use better sentence structure and spelling in my posts now.....

as smart as smart as smart as smart as:)

Had the wrong angle regarding SSV, thinking that at RPM<3000 power is almost identical to original(ref dynos), therefore same flow, therefore the same "opening" would give the optimum velocity of air going in.

And don't welcome me to the SC brotherhood just yet, I'm only at the edge, and want to do my homework before going "all in". I'm considering taking a travel to England and try the car they have there if possible. Would be sad to use 15k and not be happy. And since I cannot just go "down town" and upgrade to 12psi, but to another country(especially due to use of original engine management), I'd like to go straight to 12psi if it isn't too hazardous.

I noticed your from Norway. You guys have wingsuiting out there and thats on my bucket list. Im working on a new kit, you might want to wait and save your money. Something wicked this way come.

below 3K is an area we dont use--but between 3-5K locking the ssv will improve throttle response and power. It also removes a possible fail point.
What do I mean by removing a fail point?
I lost an engine once when the vacuum line that supply's the SSV came off while under boost at high rpm. Why did that cause my engine to blow? Well the ssv closed because it didnt have any vacuum to hold it open, this caused a boost spike when that valve closed and it also caused the p2 injectors to screw up. No warning--nothing I could do. It happened in a millisecond and it was over.

So, if I cut the SSV "axial shaft" from the SSV housing plug (seals the SSV into the intake), should I just thread the hole on the SSV "plug", where the SSV shaft used to be, and thread a bolt with some Loctite into the hole to seal the intake securely?


What about the VDI in the upper part of the lower intake; isn't the VDI normally "closed" for best power, without a plenum connection between front and rear intake runners?

I suppose either of these mods can be done (or undone) with the intake in place?
(The VDI R&R means removing a fuel rail)

I have been getting antsy myself about my OEM fuel pump. I have been running 1000cc ID secondaries for 8 months on my stock fuel pump. And keep reading all the horror stories about aftermarket fuel pumps on this car. I was going to just roll the dice but would prefer OEM. Can a series 2 pump handle 1000cc ?

Donuts in the snow at 11psi is too much fun!

its about time you jumped in this thread mike. if you are looking for an oem pump i may be able to get you a discount from my friend that works at mazda.

btw buy a beater and stop driving your 8 during our shitty/salty winters

Was thinking about that since the upper has a small bulge when its closed it might be a good candidate to be filled somehow to smooth that section out. Any thoughts?

After looking at the intake some more im going to have to say dont take the lower out. If you port out everything down to the valve id say remove it and keep going. The only way to know is to try it haha.

I thought the Aeromotive 340 pump was a good choice... I haven't heard anything bad about it. Maybe i missed something

Both valves in the lower intake would cause turbulence if removed completely, since this is after the fuel injectors, removing those valves could lead to fuel puddling in the intake.

Moon, how about a new carbon fiber lower intake that connects the intercooler lower down on the engine, you would still need the APV valves, fuel injectors and everything to fit and work, so it would not be easy....

I bet a fully redesigned lower intake / plenum / inter-cooler, designed for boost, would give you a horsepower or two.

the s2 pump should be able to handle 350 rwhp.

Here is what I did to my lim some years ago: https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...s-hpim0074-jpg

See how smooth I made it--i also covered the vdi valve--removed the outer vdi mechanism.
To open the ssv--just lock it open--dont modify it.
For a better intake--we just need to lop off from the ssv up and make one better for equal flow in a boosted engine.

I sooo wish I could afford a supercharger kit...

Rote8,
I was thinking the exact same thing about a carbon LIM.

OD,
What you're proposing probably wouldn't be too bad to make.

That was sweet!!! What was your pressure drop again? Looking down the lim if you cut the wall out between the ports making two big oval ports instead of four circular. It also looks as if you can open the runners under the ssv to match the top. That would also open up the lower runners making the lim flow even better.

So does anyone have a picture of their SSV locked open? Denny?

Its too dark down there to get a picture!
What yall cant see in that picture is that the runners now taper from bigger to smaller. The lim is made out of pretty thick aluminum and there is some room for doing this:) I wasn't able to do it in the ratio I wanted but any is a help. There is also a LOT of casting roughness within the runners that needs cleaning.
How do yall think I have been able to get well over 300 rwhp on 7-8lbs of boost?

No pressure loss with this Moon--the sc has enough reserve to take care of it--no problem. Remember I am not ported.

Another little accepted fact is that the oem runners between the front rotor and rear rotor are unequal. One being slightly longer than the other. So if a new lim can be done then that imbalance can be corrected. This unequaled length runners doesnt affect an NA engine that much--but as we are pushing the envelope then little things can turn into something more important.
I have done more--but I will leave that for a later time:)

Thanks for sharing OD

I don't know if someone posted this already but it seems like it might be a little relevant to this thread :D:

Haha