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Old 11-19-2018, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by OtherSyde
Oblit, I am in talks with Charles at BHR right now to make an extended harness for the coil relocation, but since I'm in the middle of the ocean I am unable to get to my car to measure... I'm trying to remember how far the distance is from the stock connectors to the place on the air-box tray where the coils would be mounted during the Pettit installation (including a few extra inches to reach the rear of the coils in case they need to be oriented in a weird way to fit or for the spark-plug wires to be able to reach the spark plugs down below) but I don't wanna end up with a too-short harness... If you get a free minute, would you be able to peep into your engine bay and maybe give a guesstimate on a safe length to make the harness so it will reach? 14 inches, or maybe 18 to be safe? Or longer, since it apparently has to reach all the way around the passenger side of the engine in order to reach the coils since the compressor forces the whole harness away from its normal position on top of the engine block? Thanks!
I checked my old email and found my email to charles from last year when I ordered my latest set. I got two 27 inch and two 22 inch length. The coils are mounted where the stock intake box would be. IIRC they are a few inches longer so they would be easier to route and connect since the place that did my engine swap put the stainless steel oil cooler lines kinda blocking access to the plugs.
Old 11-19-2018, 10:06 AM
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Good info to have, thanks. Those are the spark plug wires at 22" & 27" right?

I'll try to get you the coil extension lengths as soon as I can, but again, might be a little while.
Old 11-19-2018, 10:16 AM
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Sorry for the confusion. Yeah those are the spark plug wire lengths. You could prob take like 1-2 inches off each if you wanted it tighter but I needed some slack to go around the oil cooler lines since they were bulky and routed in the way of the plug. I just ziptied the slack out of the way after they were connected.
Old 12-13-2018, 07:51 PM
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So just wondering... Has anyone with the Pettit kit swapped to the S2 4.77 rear end? I'm sure it'll help acceleration but it might be overkill and not worth the MPG and high cruise RPM/drone issues. Thoughts?
Old 12-19-2018, 09:04 AM
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I read this whole thread for tips when my motor was blown. I dont recall ever seeing anyone mention anything about swapping to the s2 rear end. I am sure it would help but the power/tq from the blower really doesnt make it seem necessary. You might feel it more with an auto trans though.
Old 12-19-2018, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by keck03
I read this whole thread for tips when my motor was blown. I dont recall ever seeing anyone mention anything about swapping to the s2 rear end. I am sure it would help but the power/tq from the blower really doesnt make it seem necessary. You might feel it more with an auto trans though.
Yeah, I've read every post on here too, I just didn't know if anyone had tried it and not mentioned it. I don't know if it's worth it, just something to think about for me.

I do have an auto (6 port), but I had it upgraded to rev to 10k and shift harder, so it should run/tune similar to a manual. Maybe this is something to do down the road when I run out of other projects.
Old 12-21-2018, 04:10 AM
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I've read big chunks of this thread, but never in its entirety (pending goal)

Speaking of blown engines, has anyone ever heard of an engine being blown by the 8 PSI pulley? I've read (I think in this very thread) that the 11 PSI high-boost pulley will significantly shorten our engines' lives, but are there any reports of the regular low-boost pulley causing engine failure? I just ask because I've never been able to find any personally (as opposed to the veritable dozens of reports of turbos blowing Renesis side-seals and such), which was a huge reason I ultimately picked the Pettit kit over a turbo kit: Reliability (alongside a more linear power-curve).

Last edited by OtherSyde; 12-21-2018 at 05:46 AM.
Old 12-21-2018, 10:20 AM
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When I got my car, I took it to a reputable rotary shop that had been known for about 20 years or so. The owner told me he had done dozens of the greddy kits at 8psi on the rx8. He said he rarely saw those owners again. Every time he saw a car return, the owner had told him that he turned up the boost. At that time I was at 8psi. When I got the upgraded pulley and ran 11psi, he tried talking me out of it. He said my car was running so well and why would I want to ruin it. I blew out 4 apex seals 17k miles later. I am at 8psi now. Honestly the car feels similarly fast at 8 vs 11psi. I am sure it makes more power at 11psi but for a fun weekend car, I do not notice a difference. I am sure on a track there would be a perceivable change.

That being said, I am still only counting on getting 30-40k out of the motor. I do not think the renesis can handle boost long term without increased wear. It will shorten the lifespan. Just depends on tuning and care and luck.
Old 12-21-2018, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by obliterx8
Yeah, I've read every post on here too, I just didn't know if anyone had tried it and not mentioned it. I don't know if it's worth it, just something to think about for me.

I do have an auto (6 port), but I had it upgraded to rev to 10k and shift harder, so it should run/tune similar to a manual. Maybe this is something to do down the road when I run out of other projects.
I was thinking more about the torque converter. The S2 rear end might help mask it better. I saw a r3 rear end post for sale on FB for $500 and thought of you. It is kinda tempting but I am back to chasing an issue with the signal from my throttle body so my funds are diverted. Marriage and a baby changes priorities finance wise! lol
Old 12-24-2018, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by OtherSyde
I've read big chunks of this thread, but never in its entirety (pending goal)

Speaking of blown engines, has anyone ever heard of an engine being blown by the 8 PSI pulley? I've read (I think in this very thread) that the 11 PSI high-boost pulley will significantly shorten our engines' lives, but are there any reports of the regular low-boost pulley causing engine failure? I just ask because I've never been able to find any personally (as opposed to the veritable dozens of reports of turbos blowing Renesis side-seals and such), which was a huge reason I ultimately picked the Pettit kit over a turbo kit: Reliability (alongside a more linear power-curve).
If there was something in this thread I read it, but there is so much to read/remember that I'm not sure if anyone had issues at 8psi. I agree that from all my research I was much more worried that a turbo would blow the engine quicker than a supercharger, which lead me to the same purchase decision as you. Now, to me, there were 2 reasons. 1. Turbo guys wanting MOAR BOOOSST which is a little easier to do for them than for us (we need a hardware change, they don't). I didn't want the temptation (though I did buy 8, 11, and 13 psi pulleys already). 2. The turbo concentrates more heat at the exhaust ports, which the Renesis definitely doesn't need.

Originally Posted by keck03
When I got my car, I took it to a reputable rotary shop that had been known for about 20 years or so. The owner told me he had done dozens of the greddy kits at 8psi on the rx8. He said he rarely saw those owners again. Every time he saw a car return, the owner had told him that he turned up the boost. At that time I was at 8psi. When I got the upgraded pulley and ran 11psi, he tried talking me out of it. He said my car was running so well and why would I want to ruin it. I blew out 4 apex seals 17k miles later. I am at 8psi now. Honestly the car feels similarly fast at 8 vs 11psi. I am sure it makes more power at 11psi but for a fun weekend car, I do not notice a difference. I am sure on a track there would be a perceivable change.

That being said, I am still only counting on getting 30-40k out of the motor. I do not think the renesis can handle boost long term without increased wear. It will shorten the lifespan. Just depends on tuning and care and luck.
I'm thinking with a (re)build specifically for boost, maybe the lifespan would be increased. But stock internals, sure the lifespan will suffer.

Originally Posted by keck03
I was thinking more about the torque converter. The S2 rear end might help mask it better. I saw a r3 rear end post for sale on FB for $500 and thought of you. It is kinda tempting but I am back to chasing an issue with the signal from my throttle body so my funds are diverted. Marriage and a baby changes priorities finance wise! lol
Good point. I saw that too but it has like 139,000 miles on it. I saw one with like 9,000 miles on it for $750, thought about that too. But similarly, I just got married and now we're house shopping, so I guess the racecar is okay as-is (once I get it back together anyway). I need to make sure I can afford some good garage space.
Old 01-13-2019, 01:54 PM
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Add me to that list 😂😂

Just got mine off a junket out here in Hawaii....one issue I cant find the EFI DUDE to program my Ecu....hopefully someone here knows how to get one

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MT
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Old 01-18-2019, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Bryson D Witt
Just got mine off a junket out here in Hawaii....one issue I cant find the EFI DUDE to program my Ecu....hopefully someone here knows how to get one

Bryson Witt
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MT
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installed myself
Nice find!

Don't use the Dude. Use MazdaEdit or a Cobb AP2.
Old 02-08-2019, 12:32 PM
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Anybody making any progress? Sadly I've not done much, been helping a buddy swap engines in a 260Z and also I'm trying to build a house.

The big hurdle I'm facing is getting Ryan Rotary's engine oil slow fill solution (bigger adapter that bolts to the oil filter neck on the iron) fitted. It seems to hit the bottom of the supercharger. The fix is to remove the neck from the iron and cut it down, but removing it seems to be a problem. I don't want to heat it and warp a housing or anything...
Old 02-10-2019, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by obliterx8
Anybody making any progress? Sadly I've not done much, been helping a buddy swap engines in a 260Z and also I'm trying to build a house.

The big hurdle I'm facing is getting Ryan Rotary's engine oil slow fill solution (bigger adapter that bolts to the oil filter neck on the iron) fitted. It seems to hit the bottom of the supercharger. The fix is to remove the neck from the iron and cut it down, but removing it seems to be a problem. I don't want to heat it and warp a housing or anything...
The big hurdle I'm now facing is that while I've been out to sea, California passed that god damn new law where they just auto-rape you with $1,000 instant fines that you can't even fight, if some cop notices your car is modified or thinks it's loud. There's even a pic of black RX8 with a stock exhaust getting a noise fine, which is circulating on the Cali Highway Patrol's Facebook. Even with stock exhausts people are getting ticketed left and right if the cops just feel like it's kind of loud (they have no testing equipment), it's crazy. I can remove my tune and swap in my stock cat, and might have to buy a whole stock cat-back system too, and I might still get a ticket even then because our cars are just kind of loud even in stock form because they're sports cars with rotary engines, which basically kills any chance of installing my SC for the two years I'm still trapped in this ****-hole state. God I cannot wait to leave this place. So heated over this; I don't even know if I can drive my car when I get home. Ridiculous.
Old 02-10-2019, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by OtherSyde
The big hurdle I'm now facing is that while I've been out to sea, California passed that god damn new law where they just auto-rape you with $1,000 instant fines that you can't even fight, if some cop notices your car is modified or thinks it's loud. There's even a pic of black RX8 with a stock exhaust getting a noise fine, which is circulating on the Cali Highway Patrol's Facebook. Even with stock exhausts people are getting ticketed left and right if the cops just feel like it's kind of loud (they have no testing equipment), it's crazy. I can remove my tune and swap in my stock cat, and might have to buy a whole stock cat-back system too, and I might still get a ticket even then because our cars are just kind of loud even in stock form because they're sports cars with rotary engines, which basically kills any chance of installing my SC for the two years I'm still trapped in this ****-hole state. God I cannot wait to leave this place. So heated over this; I don't even know if I can drive my car when I get home. Ridiculous.
Yeah I've heard about all that and I've seen the picture you're talking about. That totally sucks. I hope you don't lose interest in the car, but I understand life changes things. Even if you can't get the SC installed, keep us up to date with how the car world is in Cali when you get back. Good luck.
Old 02-11-2019, 08:41 AM
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I feel so bad for people in CA. Here in PA, my 04 now qualifies for classic plates (15 years) which will make it permanently emissions exempt.

My car is hibernating bc I have to have it towed to a shop to chase down an issue with the signal from the throttle body.
Old 03-05-2019, 04:31 AM
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A blower for the Pettit racing supercharger kit ..

Hi all I would just like to know if anyone has information on where to get a blower for the Pettite Racing supercharger kit. I have been talking to (Cam) he informed me that there was only so many of these kits made by the manufacturer they were working with. He said if I could somehow find the blower for the kit he will go ahead and shipped me the rest of the parts for me to assemble the whole thing myself . But, alas that ******* blower if impossible to find. I see up greater kits for sale but, that will cost me a nut 🥜. Any help locating a kenne bell blower or any blow that will for sure work would be appreciated .
Old 03-05-2019, 08:20 AM
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Unfortunately, I'm not sure where you could find one. I'm sure if Cam could find one he would have bought it and sold another whole kit.

You're probably better off looking for a complete used kit. They do pop up for sale from time to time.
Old 03-05-2019, 08:23 AM
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I think what I’m going to have to do is rebuild the engine 121,374😅 when it does go.
And finance the upgraded kit.
Old 03-05-2019, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Brzenski III
I think what I’m going to have to do is rebuild the engine 121,374😅 when it does go.
And finance the upgraded kit.
No offense, but financing a kit like this when it's probably worth more than your car sounds like a bad idea. If it's something you can't afford you'd be better off keeping the car stock but well maintained. I can tell you I've spent near 25k for the kit and other supporting upgrades. Is most of this overkill? Probably. But I don't want to slap the kit on as designed with known flaws and hope my car stays reliable.
Old 03-05-2019, 09:12 AM
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I need some input. I'm beginning to do research to install the fuel pump upgrade. I have a DW200 pump to install. I've seen people change to a S2 fuel pump housing to help with fuel starvation issues. Is this necessary? I won't be tracking the car and will probably stay on low (8psi) boost for a while. I don't like how much butchering needs to be done to install the S2 housing. I was going to stick with my S1 housing. If I do that, should I melt the pop off/pressure relief valve shut? What's everybody else done? Thanks.
Old 03-05-2019, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by obliterx8
I need some input. I'm beginning to do research to install the fuel pump upgrade. I have a DW200 pump to install. I've seen people change to a S2 fuel pump housing to help with fuel starvation issues. Is this necessary? I won't be tracking the car and will probably stay on low (8psi) boost for a while. I don't like how much butchering needs to be done to install the S2 housing. I was going to stick with my S1 housing. If I do that, should I melt the pop off/pressure relief valve shut? What's everybody else done? Thanks.
I run S1 housing with the same pump and yes pop off valve needs to be melted shut. Super easy, just heat up a flat head screw driver with a torch and fold the rim of the valve body over with the hot screw driver. I dunno about you but since my car is just street driven I rarely leave the tank below 1/4.
Old 03-05-2019, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
I run S1 housing with the same pump and yes pop off valve needs to be melted shut. Super easy, just heat up a flat head screw driver with a torch and fold the rim of the valve body over with the hot screw driver. I dunno about you but since my car is just street driven I rarely leave the tank below 1/4.
Great, thanks for the input. I figure it'll be self-explanatory once I get the pump housing in my hands.

I also am pretty good about keeping the car filled up, so I'm not very concerned, just wanted to check with everyone.
Old 03-06-2019, 10:11 AM
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I also run the DW200 in a S1 housing. No track just wknd driving. Never had an issue. Its been prob at least 3 years.
Old 03-06-2019, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by keck03
I also run the DW200 in a S1 housing. No track just wknd driving. Never had an issue. Its been prob at least 3 years.
Awesome, great news. I appreciate the feedback Keck.


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