Pettit Super Charger Owners
04-13-2018, 02:35 PM
I'm continuing to make progress (slowly). I got the transmission out after some swearing. I'll be getting some components out of it to send for upgrading so that I can safely hit 10k RPM in my 6 speed AT. I should also get better shifting performance that's not so sluggish.
04-15-2018, 05:23 PM
Quick update:
My care package from Ryan Rotary is ready and was sent out to me today. Looking forward to getting all this installed!
I went with the full pulley set (can run more boost later if I feel the need), the oil filler upgrade, and even got some injectors at a good price.
My care package from Ryan Rotary is ready and was sent out to me today. Looking forward to getting all this installed!
I went with the full pulley set (can run more boost later if I feel the need), the oil filler upgrade, and even got some injectors at a good price.
04-16-2018, 09:21 AM
04-16-2018, 09:23 AM
Quick update:
My care package from Ryan Rotary is ready and was sent out to me today. Looking forward to getting all this installed!
I went with the full pulley set (can run more boost later if I feel the need), the oil filler upgrade, and even got some injectors at a good price.
My care package from Ryan Rotary is ready and was sent out to me today. Looking forward to getting all this installed!
I went with the full pulley set (can run more boost later if I feel the need), the oil filler upgrade, and even got some injectors at a good price.
04-16-2018, 06:51 PM
04-16-2018, 06:53 PM
Any idea what size belt(s) I'll need? Did you do the Gatorback belts like our forefathers?
04-17-2018, 11:44 AM
I first used just regular belts and then switched to Gatorback when I first had slippage and stuck with them. I should be able to get the part number off of the one on it. What boost pulley are you running?
04-17-2018, 11:52 AM
I'm starting with the low boost pulley... 90mm? I'm assuming the smaller the pulley the higher the boost, but don't have the system together to analyze it. I don't really know where each pulley goes yet.
04-18-2018, 06:37 AM
Gatorbacks are now Continental Elite Poly-V Belt. I don't recall offhand the belt currently in my -8, but you can get a close guess at the size needed by running a flat electrical cord around the pulleys as installed, with the tensioner about 1/3rd extended. The Continental part # 4050330 is a Poly-V, 5-rib, 33". I *think* mine turned out to be a 33.5", so that would have been a 4050335.
You will need a 40603XX (Poly-V, 6-rib, 30-something inches).
Have fun!
04-23-2018, 05:30 PM
So I may have gotten a bit carried away here when stripping the engine down for the supercharger install. I'm almost down to the short block in the engine bay.
But, when I looked at it when I was all done (like the pic), it occurred to me that maybe I should have a rebuild/upgrade done to the engine. I'm currently at 41,000 miles on it and have never had any issues, though haven't had it compression tested and can't really do that now. Does anyone have any input? Should I do nothing, just get a rebuild, or go for a built engine? I know this is a very open-ended question, but I am torn on what to do. I have the money for it, but don't really need to spend that kind of money now either. My engine is fine, but who knows when it will go? I have it all torn down basically ready to put in a crate now and would really hate to have to do this work twice.
Please help! Any input is welcome.
But, when I looked at it when I was all done (like the pic), it occurred to me that maybe I should have a rebuild/upgrade done to the engine. I'm currently at 41,000 miles on it and have never had any issues, though haven't had it compression tested and can't really do that now. Does anyone have any input? Should I do nothing, just get a rebuild, or go for a built engine? I know this is a very open-ended question, but I am torn on what to do. I have the money for it, but don't really need to spend that kind of money now either. My engine is fine, but who knows when it will go? I have it all torn down basically ready to put in a crate now and would really hate to have to do this work twice.
Please help! Any input is welcome.
04-23-2018, 10:09 PM
Hybrid Greddy Boosted
My opinion is that I wouldn't bother with a rebuild until you start seeing low compression symptoms (hard to start when the engine is warm, e.g. after filling up with gas). When you run a custom tune, the OMP rates are typically increased, and if the chrome surface is still in tact, it could last another 40k miles.
The other scenario you may be trying to prevent is a catastrophic engine failure, which would likely occur (or not) regardless of whether you get it rebuilt - so in my opinion not a reason for an engine rebuild. Just make sure you don't run lean, so keep a good tune and review it every 6 months. Also have an AFR gauge in your line of site that you can keep an eye on when you're doing WOT pulls - any time you see an AFR 12.0 or more while under boost, you're running too lean and need to drive out of boost until you get it sorted.
The other scenario you may be trying to prevent is a catastrophic engine failure, which would likely occur (or not) regardless of whether you get it rebuilt - so in my opinion not a reason for an engine rebuild. Just make sure you don't run lean, so keep a good tune and review it every 6 months. Also have an AFR gauge in your line of site that you can keep an eye on when you're doing WOT pulls - any time you see an AFR 12.0 or more while under boost, you're running too lean and need to drive out of boost until you get it sorted.
04-28-2018, 07:11 AM
So does anyone know if all of the rewiring in the Pettit manual is necessary? Or which part is necessary? Obviously not running the Int X, will be getting tuned via MazdaEdit, so I'm thinking nothing needs rewired? I don't want to chop up my wiring harness if it's not necessary!
05-01-2018, 08:57 AM
My opinion is that I wouldn't bother with a rebuild until you start seeing low compression symptoms (hard to start when the engine is warm, e.g. after filling up with gas). When you run a custom tune, the OMP rates are typically increased, and if the chrome surface is still in tact, it could last another 40k miles.
The other scenario you may be trying to prevent is a catastrophic engine failure, which would likely occur (or not) regardless of whether you get it rebuilt - so in my opinion not a reason for an engine rebuild. Just make sure you don't run lean, so keep a good tune and review it every 6 months. Also have an AFR gauge in your line of site that you can keep an eye on when you're doing WOT pulls - any time you see an AFR 12.0 or more while under boost, you're running too lean and need to drive out of boost until you get it sorted.
The other scenario you may be trying to prevent is a catastrophic engine failure, which would likely occur (or not) regardless of whether you get it rebuilt - so in my opinion not a reason for an engine rebuild. Just make sure you don't run lean, so keep a good tune and review it every 6 months. Also have an AFR gauge in your line of site that you can keep an eye on when you're doing WOT pulls - any time you see an AFR 12.0 or more while under boost, you're running too lean and need to drive out of boost until you get it sorted.
05-01-2018, 09:01 AM
Gatorbacks are now Continental Elite Poly-V Belt. I don't recall offhand the belt currently in my -8, but you can get a close guess at the size needed by running a flat electrical cord around the pulleys as installed, with the tensioner about 1/3rd extended. The Continental part # 4050330 is a Poly-V, 5-rib, 33". I *think* mine turned out to be a 33.5", so that would have been a 4050335.
You will need a 40603XX (Poly-V, 6-rib, 30-something inches).
Have fun!
Last edited by keck03; 05-01-2018 at 09:06 AM.
05-01-2018, 05:22 PM
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
I'm continuing to make progress (slowly). I got the transmission out after some swearing. I'll be getting some components out of it to send for upgrading so that I can safely hit 10k RPM in my 6 speed AT. I should also get better shifting performance that's not so sluggish.
05-01-2018, 07:04 PM
Keck, thanks on both counts. I'll let you guys know what I do with the engine.
200, I'd consider it, but I'm not sure where you're at. I'll PM you.
In other news, my transmission is back together and ready to go in... but my engine is out for at least a good exterior cleaning, so the tranny might sit for a bit.
200, I'd consider it, but I'm not sure where you're at. I'll PM you.
In other news, my transmission is back together and ready to go in... but my engine is out for at least a good exterior cleaning, so the tranny might sit for a bit.
05-04-2018, 09:09 AM
Oh and I want to warn you about that honeycomb air straightener. My tune def was messed up and threw error codes. I reset the ecu and pcm and it fixed it. The first day or two it ran fine but my AF dropped to 10:1. Then the ECU freaked out and kept the car at like 10.5 at even idle so I had to rev it to keep from stalling. The error codes were all AFM related. After the reset, my tune went back to 11.2 or so at full load. This is still the tune from 11psi so a little richer makes sense.
05-04-2018, 02:14 PM
Oh and I want to warn you about that honeycomb air straightener. My tune def was messed up and threw error codes. I reset the ecu and pcm and it fixed it. The first day or two it ran fine but my AF dropped to 10:1. Then the ECU freaked out and kept the car at like 10.5 at even idle so I had to rev it to keep from stalling. The error codes were all AFM related. After the reset, my tune went back to 11.2 or so at full load. This is still the tune from 11psi so a little richer makes sense.
05-04-2018, 02:45 PM
Keck, you got me worried. Hopefully you just didn't tune it like Brettus said. I know the system is sensitive to changes in airflow/turbulence, so as long as I get a tune for mine, I'm guessing it'll be okay.
05-07-2018, 08:21 AM
I didnt retune it before I used it. It was odd that I put about 25-30 miles on it and it was fine. I was concerned it would affect it because of the nature of the Pettit blow through MAF so I took it slow. I was confused why it was good. Then the ECU freaked only a few miles from my house. The motor was not warmed up yet so I was keeping it off boost and lower revs. I have another tuning session with MM this wednesday and ask for his input. What is odd, is somehow when I cleared everything, the car is running better than it had before. But I had reset the ECU and PCM as well in the past when I swapped coils.
It is running so good right now that I prob would not have bothered with a fresh tune for the motor. I prob won't bother putting the filter back in and rebuilding the tune since its so close to perfect now. My prior tune took 7 revisions and I dont want to go through that again. Well mostly the datalogging.
Obliterx8 who is doing your tune? Do they have a base map they are starting from?
It is running so good right now that I prob would not have bothered with a fresh tune for the motor. I prob won't bother putting the filter back in and rebuilding the tune since its so close to perfect now. My prior tune took 7 revisions and I dont want to go through that again. Well mostly the datalogging.
Obliterx8 who is doing your tune? Do they have a base map they are starting from?
Last edited by keck03; 05-07-2018 at 08:34 AM.