Pettit Super Charger Owners
02-18-2018, 07:37 PM
Thanks keck. I started on each area that had really high casting spots with a stone (not actually a rock, but they're stone bits for grinding/abrading). I then used sand paper 80 grit, then 120. then I moved to abrasive discs (like scotch brite with abrasives embedded). I used my hand drills and my dremel to do the work, with a little hand sanding where needed. I also filed a couple areas where I could. I don't really know if it's the way the pros do it, but it worked well enough.
Some spots are damn near impossible to get to, even with extensions, flexible shafts, or by hand. So there are a couple small areas (in the bends) that just aren't perfect, but so be it.
Here's my charge cooler section (I didn't get carried away in fear of hitting the cooler fins):
Some spots are damn near impossible to get to, even with extensions, flexible shafts, or by hand. So there are a couple small areas (in the bends) that just aren't perfect, but so be it.
Here's my charge cooler section (I didn't get carried away in fear of hitting the cooler fins):
02-18-2018, 07:46 PM
And here is the Pettit UIM that I just finished tonight. Busy weekend!
There is a shot down each of the 4 runners, then the large opening from the charge cooler connection, then the areas I couldn't reach (you can see what a difference this work made!).
I'll have to do the OEM LIM once I tear my car apart. I'll try to match the runners on that to the Pettit UIM so there isn't a step in the flow front. I'm not worried about the other two pieces of the Pettit kit since they use silicone couplers, but the UIM/LIM connection uses a gasket only, so I want it to be a smooth transition.
I convinced my dad to add another lift to his garage for all my projects lol. A 10 minute drive to a lift is way better than working on jack stands in my garage for a project like this. It won't be in until the 2nd week of March though, then I'll need to help him install it. Hopefully I'll get rocking on my build here before it snows again next fall.
There is a shot down each of the 4 runners, then the large opening from the charge cooler connection, then the areas I couldn't reach (you can see what a difference this work made!).
I'll have to do the OEM LIM once I tear my car apart. I'll try to match the runners on that to the Pettit UIM so there isn't a step in the flow front. I'm not worried about the other two pieces of the Pettit kit since they use silicone couplers, but the UIM/LIM connection uses a gasket only, so I want it to be a smooth transition.
I convinced my dad to add another lift to his garage for all my projects lol. A 10 minute drive to a lift is way better than working on jack stands in my garage for a project like this. It won't be in until the 2nd week of March though, then I'll need to help him install it. Hopefully I'll get rocking on my build here before it snows again next fall.
Last edited by obliterx8; 02-18-2018 at 07:54 PM.
02-18-2018, 07:53 PM
One last thing for the night...
After taking all of the castings off the S/C, I got a good view of the rotors. They're kind of scuffed up, maybe only .002"-.003" deep though. Kenne Bell said it was from a rotor misalignment due to excessive heat or running no oil (and the gears heating up). They said they would rebuild it for peace of mind (of course they would - they'll make $700-1000).
Supposedly the kit only has 2,000 original miles on it and ran fine when uninstalled (the castings were never taken off so the the last owner couldn't see this like I could). Do you all think it needs rebuilt or can it be run without issue?
I know a rebuild is the safe route, but there goes a grand if it's really not needed. Thoughts?
After taking all of the castings off the S/C, I got a good view of the rotors. They're kind of scuffed up, maybe only .002"-.003" deep though. Kenne Bell said it was from a rotor misalignment due to excessive heat or running no oil (and the gears heating up). They said they would rebuild it for peace of mind (of course they would - they'll make $700-1000).
Supposedly the kit only has 2,000 original miles on it and ran fine when uninstalled (the castings were never taken off so the the last owner couldn't see this like I could). Do you all think it needs rebuilt or can it be run without issue?
I know a rebuild is the safe route, but there goes a grand if it's really not needed. Thoughts?
02-18-2018, 11:34 PM
Registered
Wow OBLIT, looking super professional! Lots of progress!
Well, I made some progress too! My odometer is getting reset to zero. Seriously. Engine blew a coolant tube on the freeway (here in hot-*** SoCal) and proceeded to immediately spew all of its coolant all over the inside of the engine bay within a minute or two before I even got a Check Engine light, and by the time I was able to pull over (less than a minute later; I started trying to get off the freeway as soon as I saw the CEL) there was steam billowing out of my hood vents. I immediately shut it down, and it wouldn't start up again at all once it had cooled down, but turned over strong; I figured I'd flooded it.
So I called Triple-A and got a tow to a local Mazda-centric racing shop (mostly Miatas, but a lot of RX7's and RX8's as well) that the tow-truck driver knew about which was somehow only two miles away in Santee! The next day they called and reported that the engine was indeed flooded... With coolant. The coolant seals were fried and whatever coolant wasn't all over the inside of the engine bay had leaked into the combustion chambers. Engine is dead as a door nail at 61,000 original miles and 11 years.
****.
So I immediately started researching engine rebuild places. I've settled on what looks to be a quality rebuilt engine from Rotary Resurrection (this one right here) which is several hundred dollars more than their normal ones due to the better condition of its components (housings, etc.), and has several internal seals replaced with Atkins seals. $3,475 shipped, and it's shipping out Monday. It'll be swapped in by the shop as soon as it arrives, but then of course I have to wait several thousand miles doing a breaking-in period before I get crazy and install my supercharger - not like I can afford to at this point anyway lol.
I have to go rent some crappy 4-banger rental car from Avis tomorrow so I can get to work for the next 1-2 weeks
Oh well, if I'm honest, installing a supercharger on an 11-year-old, 61,000-mile engine with borderline-rebuild-level compression numbers (low to mid 90's psi) probably wasn't going to end well anyway. Maybe it's better this way.
Well, I made some progress too! My odometer is getting reset to zero. Seriously. Engine blew a coolant tube on the freeway (here in hot-*** SoCal) and proceeded to immediately spew all of its coolant all over the inside of the engine bay within a minute or two before I even got a Check Engine light, and by the time I was able to pull over (less than a minute later; I started trying to get off the freeway as soon as I saw the CEL) there was steam billowing out of my hood vents. I immediately shut it down, and it wouldn't start up again at all once it had cooled down, but turned over strong; I figured I'd flooded it.
So I called Triple-A and got a tow to a local Mazda-centric racing shop (mostly Miatas, but a lot of RX7's and RX8's as well) that the tow-truck driver knew about which was somehow only two miles away in Santee! The next day they called and reported that the engine was indeed flooded... With coolant. The coolant seals were fried and whatever coolant wasn't all over the inside of the engine bay had leaked into the combustion chambers. Engine is dead as a door nail at 61,000 original miles and 11 years.
****.
So I immediately started researching engine rebuild places. I've settled on what looks to be a quality rebuilt engine from Rotary Resurrection (this one right here) which is several hundred dollars more than their normal ones due to the better condition of its components (housings, etc.), and has several internal seals replaced with Atkins seals. $3,475 shipped, and it's shipping out Monday. It'll be swapped in by the shop as soon as it arrives, but then of course I have to wait several thousand miles doing a breaking-in period before I get crazy and install my supercharger - not like I can afford to at this point anyway lol.
I have to go rent some crappy 4-banger rental car from Avis tomorrow so I can get to work for the next 1-2 weeks
Oh well, if I'm honest, installing a supercharger on an 11-year-old, 61,000-mile engine with borderline-rebuild-level compression numbers (low to mid 90's psi) probably wasn't going to end well anyway. Maybe it's better this way.
Last edited by OtherSyde; 02-18-2018 at 11:37 PM.
02-19-2018, 10:17 AM
Sorry to hear about your troubles OtherSyde. I worry about the same thing, I have an 06 with maybe 43,000 on it. Hopefully I don't have any issues. Honestly though, I always thought a new engine would be more than $4k. Not that I'd be excited to foot that bill, but it's not terrible I guess. I hope everything works out ok for you.
Maybe you can paint your rotor housings blue to match everything else?
Maybe you can paint your rotor housings blue to match everything else?
02-19-2018, 04:32 PM
So, I'm looking for some input on fuel pumps. I bought a DW200, but was considering buying a S2 pump housing to put it in, to avoid the low fuel high G left turn fuel starvation issues.
What's everyone else running with this kit? Does the S2 pump housing help that much if I have an uprated pump?
I'll do some research on the site, but wanted your guys' thoughts specific to this kit.
What's everyone else running with this kit? Does the S2 pump housing help that much if I have an uprated pump?
I'll do some research on the site, but wanted your guys' thoughts specific to this kit.
02-19-2018, 06:12 PM
Registered
Sorry to hear about your troubles OtherSyde. I worry about the same thing, I have an 06 with maybe 43,000 on it. Hopefully I don't have any issues. Honestly though, I always thought a new engine would be more than $4k. Not that I'd be excited to foot that bill, but it's not terrible I guess. I hope everything works out ok for you.
Maybe you can paint your rotor housings blue to match everything else?
Maybe you can paint your rotor housings blue to match everything else?
I do have a question for anyone who might know though - this intrigues me and I've never heard of it before: Apparently there is a 4psi pulley available for our kits..? See this Motor Trend article here
Can we still get these..? Did they ever actually exist?
Last edited by OtherSyde; 02-19-2018 at 08:50 PM.
02-20-2018, 03:46 PM
One last thing for the night...
After taking all of the castings off the S/C, I got a good view of the rotors. They're kind of scuffed up, maybe only .002"-.003" deep though. Kenne Bell said it was from a rotor misalignment due to excessive heat or running no oil (and the gears heating up). They said they would rebuild it for peace of mind (of course they would - they'll make $700-1000).
Supposedly the kit only has 2,000 original miles on it and ran fine when uninstalled (the castings were never taken off so the the last owner couldn't see this like I could). Do you all think it needs rebuilt or can it be run without issue?
I know a rebuild is the safe route, but there goes a grand if it's really not needed. Thoughts?
After taking all of the castings off the S/C, I got a good view of the rotors. They're kind of scuffed up, maybe only .002"-.003" deep though. Kenne Bell said it was from a rotor misalignment due to excessive heat or running no oil (and the gears heating up). They said they would rebuild it for peace of mind (of course they would - they'll make $700-1000).
Supposedly the kit only has 2,000 original miles on it and ran fine when uninstalled (the castings were never taken off so the the last owner couldn't see this like I could). Do you all think it needs rebuilt or can it be run without issue?
I know a rebuild is the safe route, but there goes a grand if it's really not needed. Thoughts?
Did Kenne Bell think it would scrape or just not spin as well? Would it hurt the bearings long term if it was not perfectly true?
02-20-2018, 03:50 PM
So, I'm looking for some input on fuel pumps. I bought a DW200, but was considering buying a S2 pump housing to put it in, to avoid the low fuel high G left turn fuel starvation issues.
What's everyone else running with this kit? Does the S2 pump housing help that much if I have an uprated pump?
I'll do some research on the site, but wanted your guys' thoughts specific to this kit.
What's everyone else running with this kit? Does the S2 pump housing help that much if I have an uprated pump?
I'll do some research on the site, but wanted your guys' thoughts specific to this kit.
02-20-2018, 03:52 PM
Wow OBLIT, looking super professional! Lots of progress!
Well, I made some progress too! My odometer is getting reset to zero. Seriously. Engine blew a coolant tube on the freeway (here in hot-*** SoCal) and proceeded to immediately spew all of its coolant all over the inside of the engine bay within a minute or two before I even got a Check Engine light, and by the time I was able to pull over (less than a minute later; I started trying to get off the freeway as soon as I saw the CEL) there was steam billowing out of my hood vents. I immediately shut it down, and it wouldn't start up again at all once it had cooled down, but turned over strong; I figured I'd flooded it.
So I called Triple-A and got a tow to a local Mazda-centric racing shop (mostly Miatas, but a lot of RX7's and RX8's as well) that the tow-truck driver knew about which was somehow only two miles away in Santee! The next day they called and reported that the engine was indeed flooded... With coolant. The coolant seals were fried and whatever coolant wasn't all over the inside of the engine bay had leaked into the combustion chambers. Engine is dead as a door nail at 61,000 original miles and 11 years.
****.
So I immediately started researching engine rebuild places. I've settled on what looks to be a quality rebuilt engine from Rotary Resurrection (this one right here) which is several hundred dollars more than their normal ones due to the better condition of its components (housings, etc.), and has several internal seals replaced with Atkins seals. $3,475 shipped, and it's shipping out Monday. It'll be swapped in by the shop as soon as it arrives, but then of course I have to wait several thousand miles doing a breaking-in period before I get crazy and install my supercharger - not like I can afford to at this point anyway lol.
I have to go rent some crappy 4-banger rental car from Avis tomorrow so I can get to work for the next 1-2 weeks
Oh well, if I'm honest, installing a supercharger on an 11-year-old, 61,000-mile engine with borderline-rebuild-level compression numbers (low to mid 90's psi) probably wasn't going to end well anyway. Maybe it's better this way.
Well, I made some progress too! My odometer is getting reset to zero. Seriously. Engine blew a coolant tube on the freeway (here in hot-*** SoCal) and proceeded to immediately spew all of its coolant all over the inside of the engine bay within a minute or two before I even got a Check Engine light, and by the time I was able to pull over (less than a minute later; I started trying to get off the freeway as soon as I saw the CEL) there was steam billowing out of my hood vents. I immediately shut it down, and it wouldn't start up again at all once it had cooled down, but turned over strong; I figured I'd flooded it.
So I called Triple-A and got a tow to a local Mazda-centric racing shop (mostly Miatas, but a lot of RX7's and RX8's as well) that the tow-truck driver knew about which was somehow only two miles away in Santee! The next day they called and reported that the engine was indeed flooded... With coolant. The coolant seals were fried and whatever coolant wasn't all over the inside of the engine bay had leaked into the combustion chambers. Engine is dead as a door nail at 61,000 original miles and 11 years.
****.
So I immediately started researching engine rebuild places. I've settled on what looks to be a quality rebuilt engine from Rotary Resurrection (this one right here) which is several hundred dollars more than their normal ones due to the better condition of its components (housings, etc.), and has several internal seals replaced with Atkins seals. $3,475 shipped, and it's shipping out Monday. It'll be swapped in by the shop as soon as it arrives, but then of course I have to wait several thousand miles doing a breaking-in period before I get crazy and install my supercharger - not like I can afford to at this point anyway lol.
I have to go rent some crappy 4-banger rental car from Avis tomorrow so I can get to work for the next 1-2 weeks
Oh well, if I'm honest, installing a supercharger on an 11-year-old, 61,000-mile engine with borderline-rebuild-level compression numbers (low to mid 90's psi) probably wasn't going to end well anyway. Maybe it's better this way.
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OtherSyde (02-20-2018)
02-20-2018, 05:11 PM
Hmm, honestly I have no idea. If it was me, I would ship it out to have complete piece of mind before it got installed. Seeing how much time you put into the porting, I can tell you don't cut corners. I have seen my supercharger off the car literally once. And that was when I surprised the shop 3 months after I dropped off my car to find out WTH was taking so long on the install.
Did Kenne Bell think it would scrape or just not spin as well? Would it hurt the bearings long term if it was not perfectly true?
Did Kenne Bell think it would scrape or just not spin as well? Would it hurt the bearings long term if it was not perfectly true?
Well, you're right about me not cutting corners. I get a little uptight about most things, probably more than I should. My thoughts are I'd like to have it rebuilt, but $1k is steep (especially after everything else I've bought for this project).
Kenne Bell said:
"I would rebuild it just for the peace of mind. Timing is in the gear pack. If the gears get too hot, they’ll expand, which will throw off the timing. Could be from low or no oil, trying for too much boost and or exceeding the maximum RPM limit of the supercharger. Depending on the extent of rotor damage, we can normally file and smooth out the rotors. If the gear pack needs to be replaced, it’s another $250.00 on top of the standard $699.00 rebuild price. Normal turnaround time is 5 to 10 days depending on how busy we are. Liquid cooling is not an option for the 1.7L unit. You should not have any issues with heat (the 200k mile vehicle is located in Arizona with normal summer temps of 110+ degrees)"
"We wont know the extent of the repair until it’s opened up. There won’t be any significant loss in boost after the repair work."
With them saying to rebuild it "just for peace of mind", I kind of read it as it isn't necessary, but they'd love the income. I agree, it is for peace of mind. Of course they would never tell me it's okay to run that way in case it fails, but they also didn't say not to run it that way. See why I'm conflicted?
"We wont know the extent of the repair until it’s opened up. There won’t be any significant loss in boost after the repair work."
02-20-2018, 05:17 PM
I have run the DW200 pump in the S1 housing now for 3 years or so with no issue. Charles at BHR carried and recommended it. I remember messaging some other SC owners and they liked the S2 housing conversion but I thought you also needed the S2 pump. IIRC the cost was significantly more than the DW200 so I just thought to try it and keep my eyes on my A/Fs. I never saw any lean issues
But, now that you mention it, the pump may be for S1 only. But I would imagine only the electrical connectors would be different? I think the physical size is the same on both pumps. Am I wrong?
02-21-2018, 05:26 AM
One last thing for the night...
After taking all of the castings off the S/C, I got a good view of the rotors. They're kind of scuffed up, maybe only .002"-.003" deep though. Kenne Bell said it was from a rotor misalignment due to excessive heat or running no oil (and the gears heating up). They said they would rebuild it for peace of mind (of course they would - they'll make $700-1000).
Supposedly the kit only has 2,000 original miles on it and ran fine when uninstalled (the castings were never taken off so the the last owner couldn't see this like I could). Do you all think it needs rebuilt or can it be run without issue?
I know a rebuild is the safe route, but there goes a grand if it's really not needed. Thoughts?
After taking all of the castings off the S/C, I got a good view of the rotors. They're kind of scuffed up, maybe only .002"-.003" deep though. Kenne Bell said it was from a rotor misalignment due to excessive heat or running no oil (and the gears heating up). They said they would rebuild it for peace of mind (of course they would - they'll make $700-1000).
Supposedly the kit only has 2,000 original miles on it and ran fine when uninstalled (the castings were never taken off so the the last owner couldn't see this like I could). Do you all think it needs rebuilt or can it be run without issue?
I know a rebuild is the safe route, but there goes a grand if it's really not needed. Thoughts?
Mine made the trip twice; once after swallowing an unknown object and jamming, then for peace of mind under warranty when it had a 'tick' in the spin after coming back. Smooth spin now, and the only whine is on purpose.
02-21-2018, 01:02 PM
I'm pretty sure when buying the DW200, it said it fit 04-11 RX-8s. So I would assume it would fit the S2 pump housing. I would just then need to do the "standard" conversion from an S1 to S2 fuel pump. I'm considering buying a used S2 pump to just get the basket cheaper, or may buy a new OEM basket with no pump, depending on the price. I just don't know if it'll be worth it. I won't be tracking the car, and never had fuel starvation issues (that I know of) with the car in stock form on the street.
But, now that you mention it, the pump may be for S1 only. But I would imagine only the electrical connectors would be different? I think the physical size is the same on both pumps. Am I wrong?
But, now that you mention it, the pump may be for S1 only. But I would imagine only the electrical connectors would be different? I think the physical size is the same on both pumps. Am I wrong?
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...ries-i-230326/
02-21-2018, 04:38 PM
If you rotate it by the pulley, and you feel even the slightest bind or grab during three rotations, send it in. It'll be spinning at 18 grand during a full throttle pass, heating those rotors up quite a bit, and anything sticking at ambient is going to get a whole lot worse. Bigger problem: anything it sheds will most likely get past the intercooler, and down the intake for another $5K worth of rebuild.
Mine made the trip twice; once after swallowing an unknown object and jamming, then for peace of mind under warranty when it had a 'tick' in the spin after coming back. Smooth spin now, and the only whine is on purpose.
Mine made the trip twice; once after swallowing an unknown object and jamming, then for peace of mind under warranty when it had a 'tick' in the spin after coming back. Smooth spin now, and the only whine is on purpose.
Mine seems pretty smooth on rotation (it doesn't have any oil in it right now either). But, I have nothing known to be good for comparison.
I'll probably send this bad boy in for a rebuild then.
02-21-2018, 04:40 PM
02-22-2018, 04:05 PM
Yeah, I've read through that thread. I should be able to make the S1 connector fit the S2 pump. But I'm really not sure I should bother, as the DW200 should give all the flow I need and I've never really had a problem with the OEM setup (I guess I'm never in the fuel starvation scenario). Maybe I'll just leave it be for now? It just seemed like a good idea to do while I'm in there.
02-22-2018, 06:50 PM
On another note, I am sending the S/C in for a refurb. Not how I wanted to spend the cash, but hey, that how this stuff works. Better to pay now than pay a lot more later.
02-26-2018, 10:52 AM
I think I'm going this route - just stay with the OEM S1 + DW200. I don't plan to track the car any time soon.
On another note, I am sending the S/C in for a refurb. Not how I wanted to spend the cash, but hey, that how this stuff works. Better to pay now than pay a lot more later.
On another note, I am sending the S/C in for a refurb. Not how I wanted to spend the cash, but hey, that how this stuff works. Better to pay now than pay a lot more later.
02-26-2018, 12:15 PM
Lol sorry to do that to you. Are you having a new rattle or is it just the normal sound? You might want to look into it before your S/C looks like mine.
03-19-2018, 08:16 PM
Anyone make any progress lately? Rebuilt engines in? More boost? More rotors?
I've just been stockpiling parts like some sort of packrat, and trying to save for everything else I still need lol. I think I'm going to upgrade the BOV to a TiAl QRJ, get some custom aluminum coolant tanks made, run a bunch of silicone hoses, upgrade the radiator and Pettit coolers, and also maybe the water pump. Shouldn't be so hard, right?
I'm getting tired of researching - I just want to go work on my damn car!
I've just been stockpiling parts like some sort of packrat, and trying to save for everything else I still need lol. I think I'm going to upgrade the BOV to a TiAl QRJ, get some custom aluminum coolant tanks made, run a bunch of silicone hoses, upgrade the radiator and Pettit coolers, and also maybe the water pump. Shouldn't be so hard, right?
I'm getting tired of researching - I just want to go work on my damn car!
03-20-2018, 08:42 AM
lol I did my usual 1.5 hour oil change over the weekend. Shop that did the motor swap used a different filter than I had a wrench for and it was a nightmare to get it off. Oh and the remote oil filler neck will vomit oil if you pour too quickly. When you two start doing the oil changes, be prepared for it. I prefer to buy the oil in quart containers so I can pour it slower and more in control. Also rocker extensions with oil filter wrenches will be your best friend to break it loose and the final tighten. Its really buried back there. Just two little "pro" tips! lol
03-21-2018, 09:28 PM
Yeah, I heard about the slow filling issue, I'll see if I can't engineer a solution once I get into the installation.
I already got myself an oil filter relocation kit for just that reason - I don't want to be scratching up my Pettit kit or dripping oil on it when changing my oil. I just have to figure out where to mount it.
I also just bought an upgraded (in my head it's better anyway) intercooler for the Pettit circuit. It's a one piece deal so should look nicer too. It's got twice the cooling of one Pettit radiator, so in theory should cool at least as well, but's a little smaller. Since I'm AT, I bought a matching transmission cooler that'll mount right below it - should look pretty slick. I won't go into more detail, I'll let the install pics do it justice eventually.
I already got myself an oil filter relocation kit for just that reason - I don't want to be scratching up my Pettit kit or dripping oil on it when changing my oil. I just have to figure out where to mount it.
I also just bought an upgraded (in my head it's better anyway) intercooler for the Pettit circuit. It's a one piece deal so should look nicer too. It's got twice the cooling of one Pettit radiator, so in theory should cool at least as well, but's a little smaller. Since I'm AT, I bought a matching transmission cooler that'll mount right below it - should look pretty slick. I won't go into more detail, I'll let the install pics do it justice eventually.
