obliterx8

iTrader: (3)

Also, what spark plugs will everyone be using with this kit?

I've been researching, and getting conflicting answers:
-OEM (no change)
-1 step colder
-RX7 plugs
-RX7 trailing as leading, keep OEM trailing
-shims, no shims, all the shims, etc.

What about gap???


Then what about injectors? My tuner is suggesting yellows for primaries and blues for secondaries, or S2 greens for primaries and 4 purple or brown for secondaries. I need to research this more, but don't even know what overall CC of flow people are targeting. I thought the low boost pulley was OK with the OEM setup???

NYC Drift King

iTrader: (5)

Contact Pettit Racing in FL. They sell a ignition kit made to run with this kit. That’s what I ran and a lot of the other SC guys ran as well. If they discontinued it the hit up BHR They are the next best imo.

obliterx8

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the suggestion. I already have the BHR ignition upgrade, just wondering what plugs to use.

NYC Drift King

iTrader: (5)

Oh ok, I always used the stock plugs. I've never had problems, even at redline, boosted I didn't have any misfires. Thats what I was recommended by tuners way back when and they did the job. I would stick with stock if I was you.

keck03

iTrader: (2)

I have only used stock rx8 plugs. I questioned it to a couple of shops and tuners because I always ran 1 step colder plugs with a smaller gap in my other heavily boosted car. They said "right out of the box" gap and just stock plugs.

My misfire issue was 2 of the coils going in my bhr kit. I actually swapped in a set of used BHR coils to test and cleared up my issue.

RX-Tuner

Yes, we did do a short run of these and we can still do one for you as well obliterx8 or anyone else reading this.

We didn't actually include a Maf sensor in the last run that OtherSyde's was in because if the customer already had the Pettit MAF housing and the tune for it, not including it would not require a retune. If you have someone tuning it from scratch it is a nonissue and including it into our CAI is definitely doable. Just let me know!

Scott

OtherSyde

Oooohhh man. Oh man. So my car has been running increasingly lousy with a rough/erratic idle when the engine warms up over the last few weeks, and then a few days ago I checked the spark plugs and they were all horribly fouled and black and oily. So I replaced them with a brand new set and verified all the connections in the ignition system (full BHR setup), and now it's running a little better but still a little erratic, so I ordered a Rotary Compression Tester about 2 days ago and it shipped today, and soon I will know if my engine is shitting itself - which would obviously throw a bit of a monkey-wrench in my SC install... I'll report back when I know more, but I might be stuck for awhile.

Here's hoping for decent compression numbers.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

You should get an HEI coil tester (find Team's thread on how to use one) and check your coils as well. That will cost you all of $3 but its a great check just to make sure they are still running strong.

Also if you have been running on fouled spark plugs for a while it will take your PCM a few drive cycles to re-adjust fuel trims for the new plugs. I wouldn't jump straight to the low compression conclusion yet, but having a compression tester on hand isn't the worst thing. How many miles are you at?

OtherSyde

How to go about testing my coils was my next question, so I will look for that thread. I'm just hitting 60,350 original miles. Here's hoping it's not compression problems yet!

Also - keck, in regards to remans vs. built engines, you said of your built/modded motor:

So... For the purpose of use in a supercharged RX8, what would be the longest-lasting engine - a reman, or a built engine that "handles boost better?" I would have thought that handling boost better in itself would have made the engine last longer, but you seem to be implying the opposite..? Can you elaborate?

keck03

iTrader: (2)

The train of thought I read is that softer apex seals will give a bit which will help the housings last longer. I have harder apex seals that shouldnt break as easily with the boost but their hardness will wear down the housings faster. But some builders swear OEM seals are fine for boost since our motors arent built for boost either way. But several I spoke with recommended the RA or Goopy seals. Some even recommended having the rotors cut for rx7 seals but then that opens up other issues. I talked to about 5-7 builders and got unique answers. Hopefully your motor is fine. When mine blew, it was catastrophic. Sounded like a lawn mower with a bent shaft. A buddy borrowed his brothers mechanic camera and we peered into the housings through the plug hole while we rotated the eccentric shaft. If your motor is bad, just take your time and do lots of reading and phone calls before making a decision. Mine was a 12 month process including saving up the funds.

The only consensus is that our motors are not made to handle boost. And really all i am doing is delaying the inevitable for as long as possible.

When I went to 11psi, I remember speaking with one of the guys on this thread and he told me to expect a rebuild in 10-15k miles. I thought he was crazy. But I really did get like 17k

I was *this close* to selling the sc kit and swapping in a REW but the math was just a little hard to explain to the wife

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

My experience is the exact opposite to this . OEM hardness seals last the longest but break the easiest . Soft seals don't break as easily but wear the housings faster. After years of trying different things and over 100,000 boosted miles ...I've settled on rx7 oem seals and using a higher octane fuel (E30) .

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

FYI for testing coils:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-wires-222641/


Also I'm around 50-60,000kms (31-37,000miles) of boost on my stock engine/seals. Ran 7psi for most of this time and the past 10,000kms or so have been at 9.5psi. Our cars have quite a few similar mods as well, same catback, same midpipe, same coils (hell, same suspension!). I've been pretty safe with my car through the years and made sure I didn't push it too hard until I knew for sure Brettus had my tune dialed in as best it could be. Any time I've had any feeling that anything wasn't running tip top I've made sure to run through everything I mechanically could to ensure I wasn't risking my engine. This equation of mechanical know-how and a dialed in tune have allowed me to have a very enjoyable 8 years of boost. One day I'll venture out and push the limits and try to hit the infamous 300+ whp club, but for now this car still excites me to drive with really, minimal hassle.

OtherSyde

Thanks for the link, I will get on that ASAP! And given the surprising longevity of your engine in the low-boost (5-8psi range), I think I'll just stay at the 8psi pulley. I'm way more interested in a long-lasting engine than having an extra 30-40 horsepower at the cost of a new $4k to $6k engine every freaking 2-3 years, since I do like to drive my 8 a a lot



Again, I think this just reinforces my resolve to stay at 8psi; it seems like 11psi is just too much boost for a Renesis to handle reliably for any extended period, huh? And I can certainly live with a "mere" +90 to +100rWHP and +50-60lb-ft of torque, lol. I think I'll be just fine with that

keck03

iTrader: (2)

But the OEM rx7 seals are bigger correct? 3mm vs 2mm The one shop I talked to was a fan of that route. I thought some of the strength you get is from the deeper/bigger seal

I was concerned about having my rotors cut for those seals. One rebuild shop recommended avoiding this route since it would make the rotors then unique to my car. So in a future rebuild, I would have to have replacement rotors cut if they were ever out of spec.

I really did find each shop or place that I called had a different opinion of what route to go.

keck03

iTrader: (2)

You feel a difference but its not a "OMG this is totally worth rebuilding the motor because my car is so fast now" feeling.

obliterx8

iTrader: (3)

Scott,

Feel free to PM me a price for the "Pettit" version of the GReddy intake (polished) with the MAF mount. Is the MAF on a separate little tube? I likely won't need any silicone couplers etc., maybe not even a filter as I may prefer the AEM dry flow to the K&N oiled. Maybe shoot me some options?

Thanks.

Hopefully everything is alright there buddy. I was thinking of getting a tester too just for peace of mind.




I seem to have missed a lot here! Hopefully nobody has a bad engine. I think all the talk of rebuilding might jinx us! Good info though. I definitely plan to stay at the 8 psi level for a while. I got the larger Ryan Rotary pulleys just in case though. If they stopped making them and I wanted more boost, I'd be up a creek.


Scott or you Pettit guys, you can weigh in here. I was trying to source a MazdaSpeed intake (may go AEM if I can't find MS). I like the look and the true "in-stream" cold air intake. But, it will block the radiator and Pettit coolers a bit. The "Pettit" GReddy intake is out of the way of this, and should be adequate. It just wouldn't be MazdaSpeed like all the other BS parts on my car.

OtherSyde

I don't have the Pettit MAF mount with my kit, and the intake I got from you does not have one either (nor do I have the Pettit EFI Dudelogger tune that apparently came with the original Pettit setup at some point) - where am I supposed to put my MAF?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

No, the OEM RX7 seals are 2mm. There are other issues with 3mm seals. They're not necessarily stronger due to more material being cut off the tip end to fit them. It's not uncommon for the rotor tip to break rather than then seal. They also don't often seal as well as 2mm seals, which if the combustion from one rotor face/cavity crosses over the apex seal into the next rotor face/cavity you can kiss your engine goodbye regardless of whether you had 10mm seals. If you use the correct 2mm seal you should't have any problem unless you make a mistake, like too little octane, too much boost, too much tining, install something incorrectly, and so on ...

RX-Tuner

Will do obliterx8, I will get some numbers together for you

If you prefer the AEM filter I can supply that for you with the CAI intake obliterx8 as with the other required hardware so I can verify fitment before it ships to you.

One of the primary reasons I have always preferred the higher filter location for my turbo kits, the Greddy CAI or the Pettit CAI is the reduced filter exposure to road debris such as sand or mud from other vehicles being kicked up. Space is also a consideration as you mentioned as well. Airflow is a nonissue at this location btw.

RX-Tuner

I can supply you with the required section between the CAI and the throttle body, not a problem. You want to avoid any changes in size/shape through this section of tubing for the most accurate MAF readings and we would make it from the same material as your CAI.

Let me know and I will make it happen!

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

^^truth

keck03

iTrader: (2)

So OEM rx7 seals would fit into our rotors without modification? Obviously I am not going to have my motor torn apart for it but next time I am just curious. One shop told me their preferred idea was a jdm motor then strip it and send the rotors out to be machined for the rx7 seals and then rebuild the motor.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

no, the Renesis use 2mm seals, but they're shorter with a shallower slot in the rotor. If you want to run the deeper RX7 seals, which is highly recommended unless the racing rules allowances don't permit it, the rotor slots and corner seals need to be EDM cut to permit them to fit. You absolutely do not want to do this with used rotors. Start with new rotors or don't waste your money.

There's no advantage to using a JDM Renesis engine and generally they're a surprise grab bag on whether the engine is reusable or not. JDM rotary engines generally come without any warranty and are what you see when it arrives is what you get deal. Unless you want a manual 4-port engine you might as well stay with a US spec engine.

obliterx8

iTrader: (3)

Anyone have a hookup on OEM fuel injectors? Looking for:

Two - S2 Green N3R1-13-250
Four - S2 Brown N3R2-13-250

I just got my DW200 fuel pump in and need to get injectors squared away.

obliterx8

iTrader: (3)

I also need to figure out:

When swapping injectors, do I need to get new grommets for the injectors? And I'd buy the ones that fit the intended location, not the location that injector originally came from?