obliterx8

iTrader: (3)

McMaster has a warehouse like 10 minutes from my house, so if it works that would be perfect. Never even thought to look there. Let me know how it works out. I may get the 40mm spacer and grind it down to fit.

OtherSyde

So the bolts fit perfectly, the correct size is in fact 10mm x 110mm bolts. The heads are the same size, and the nuts are interchangeable. As for the spacer, I'd recommend you personally measure the space between your strut-tower brace forks with a little metal ruler or whatever to see how long of a spacer you need - mine was 38-39mm, but yours might vary to 35mm or 40mm or something else slightly different.
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OtherSyde

On a separate note, I cut out all my seals from the Karropak seal material I was told to buy earlier in this thread, and I attached the intake sections to the compressor, as well as painting the SC's intake pipe and cutting the new blue coolant tubing to the proper lengths and blacking out my coolant tank with high-heat enamel and clear coat.
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Everything is staging to come together, but I discovered I am missing the seven M7 studs that are used to attach the Pettit Upper Intake Manifold to the OEM Lower Intake Manifold! Does anyone know where the heck I can get double-end-threaded M7 studs like that? Or even what length they're supposed to be, or what the thread pitch is..? Crap...
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RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

Looking good man, glad to see someone with a plan and doing their homework before starting to tear their 8 apart, should make for a smooth install once you get going. Can't wait to see this baby installed.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

how long do the M7 studs need to be? Are you positive they're M7; that's a bit of an odd size.

OtherSyde

Never mind, I should have looked in the guide more thoroughly (my bad) - I didn't see their specs listed at the top of the page, I must have just looked at the diagram and misread description. It was late and I was tired.

They're M6 studs, and they're 30mm. Googling "m6 30mm threaded stud" proves that these are in fact very, very commonplace. I just bought a 20-pack of 316 stainless steel ones, with a 20-pack of steel flanged M6 locknuts, all for like $20. I got the flanged locknuts instead of the nylon-ring style locknuts, reasoning that these are going to be about 2-3 inches from a very hot boosted rotary engine for years on end, and I'm not sure how well nylon would hold up to that kind of heat.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Yeah, maybe Mcmaster-Carr, but more likely Fastenal will have those

Get stainless if you can ...

Oops, you already got some, ok then ...


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keck03

iTrader: (2)

Looking brand new othersyde. I am pretty jealous.

I was looking at the pics. Did you replace that 90 degree elbow with a metal fitting? Its the black one coming off the front. My original plastic one developed a crack and would spray oil under boost. Just a quick easy cheap insurance part to replace now. I am still trying to clean oil out of my engine bay years later

obliterx8

iTrader: (3)

A few incoherent thoughts:

First, looking good OtherSyde. I like to see other people taking their time and doing things right. And car parts in the kitchen?

Is that Karropak stuff really going to work? It looks paper thin, not sure it's much of a gasket. I have no experience with it, maybe it does. Someone else provided for Viton sheet. I know Viton is a good high temp sealing material, so was thinking of going that route.

What intake is that? Looks similar in placement to the RX8Performance Greddy Turbo CAI. These go where the VFAD normally sits (above bumper crash bar). It seems like this would get much less airflow than an AEM/MS intake? I guess it's adequate there, even for FI? I was going to go AEM/MS for best airflow, but that does have the one negative of blocking/pulling more air away from the radiator.

Speaking of radiators, does anybody really need to upgrade theirs for this kit? I am getting the MazMart REmedy water pump and Tstat, will that be sufficient for street use? I was going to wait until everything else is in and then order radiators etc to fit what space is left. I also have the added challenge of having an AT, so would need a different trans cooler then too. Also, my Pettit coolers were damaged in shipping, so I need a replacement for them anyway and was thinking of getting one larger one instead of 2 in parallel. It's too hard to order this until I see what I can fit.

I might order a nicer tank for the Pettit cooling system. Would it hurt to have a pressurized tank? This system doesn't heat up much, right? Like 125F? Will the pump be OK? Maybe someone has a better pump to suggest?

I also seem to be missing the M6x30 studs, thanks for the info.

I am ordering gauges, just wanted some input. Am I missing anything?
-boost/vac
-AFR
-fuel pressure
-AIT
-oil pressure
-oil temp
-water temp
-water temp (S/C circuit)
-voltage
Probably overkill, but what the hell, do it right the first time.


Thanks guys.

OtherSyde

Thanks! And no, it's still the plastic elbow fitting... Do you happen to know the specs of what fitting you used to replace it with? The threads seem to be very thin/close together, so I'm not sure where to find something of that kind of specification - but yeah, I definitely want to get that fixed ahead of time!

OtherSyde

Haha thanks, and I only did the tape masking in the kitchen because I don't have a work bench in my garage.

I just bought the Karropak because it was recommended here; in this thread a few pages back. It says on the packaging that it's for sealing oil, coolant, gas, etc. so I assume it's fit for the purpose. We'll see I guess.

You are correct, that IS the intake from RX8Performance - they made a limited line of them especially designed for the Pettit SC kit. Given this, I would imagine it's airflow would be sufficient.

I upgraded my old radiator, but I don't think you HAVE to upgrade just for 8psi street use.

Since I purchased the Pettit-built undertray with built-in coolers, I have my stock two Pettit coolers sitting in my garage as extras. I can ship them if you want them, they're in great condition.

keck03

iTrader: (2)

I ran the OEM radiator fine with the 11psi pulley fine and the mazmart remedy pump and tstat for 15k miles or so and 4 years. Last year during the reman swap, i went to a koyo oem replacement. Seems to fit fine. My water temps are lower a little. I used to see like 190-210 and now prob 185-205 for daily spirited driving. Never tracked.

I have a water temp analog gauge plumbed into the coolant line running to the tank for the pettit kit. In the summer, water temps def go 125-150. I have seen higher if the car was sitting in traffic for an hour or so.

keck03

iTrader: (2)

Sorry but no idea of specs. My car was at a rotary shop while they were hunting down an under boost leak. Thats how they noticed the crack since they would strap the car down to the rollers to simulate driving. Under boost, it was spraying oil out of a hairline crack in the elbow. My boost leak was from the gasket which was basically not there in the back.

I would just take the plastic part to a plumbing supply shop and see if they can match it up. Prob under $5 for piece of mind

obliterx8

iTrader: (3)

Are you talking about the one coming off the front of the blower? Shouldn't that line only be a vent? From what I understand, oil only comes out there if the blower is overfilled. You should fill it to just below the full line. Oil shouldn't ever come out of there (because it won't ever go back in).

If you track it, you should have an even lower oil level in there yet.

If I'm wrong here, let me know so I don't mistreat my blower!

obliterx8

iTrader: (3)

This is what I read early in this thread (emphasis mine).

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

Exactly the temps I see with my intercooler hanging out in front of the stock Rad @ 9.5psi. I am noticing a slight decline in cooling efficiency now that it is getting older (bugs, rocks, bent fins ect) though.

obliterx8

iTrader: (3)

Anyone have thoughts on a larger/ported throttle body? If it's worth it, I'd like to do it now.

OtherSyde

Huh... Never thought of that. Out of curiosity, what effect would this have on an RX8? And is there someone who makes TB's that are RX8-compatible? I was under the impression that ours was like, specialized or unique for the rotary..?

OtherSyde

So wait, when you put a new (reman) engine in it, was it just a completely unmodified Mazda stock OEM engine? I know mine will go soon, being 11+ years old and 60,000+ miles on it, but I assumed that anyone who wanted a boosted Renesis would want to strengthen it for such an application - Aktins or Goopy Apex seals, aftermarket water jacket seals, upgraded fuel injectors, etc.? Racing Beat is only like 1.5 hours north of me, so I was gonna have them rebuild my engine with all the upgrades for toughness/hardiness so it would last longer on boost... Should I do this? Or is it unnecessary for only 8 or 11 PSI?

obliterx8

iTrader: (3)

I've read that FEED and R-magic made larger ones, but can't find evidence of that.

I've seen people boring out the OEM one by 2mm.

I've seen port/polish jobs.

The later 2 options claim more mid range power and snappier throttle response. Also, some say boost comes on earlier. Just better airflow like an intake manifold port/polish I guess.

I was going to try to port/polish my LIM and the Pettit castings (UIM, heat exchanger, and intake to the blower) and thought maybe I'd do this too. But, I don't want to ruin anything if it had negative consequences.

Anyone really know their stuff or done all the research?

keck03

iTrader: (2)

It should be a vent but when I daily drove it, I checked the oil level on the blower on a regular basis and was careful about the overfill. Oil would still "disappear". I kept oil in the trunk and added every few weeks. Never an amount that would concern me but noticeable. After they replaced, the fitting I could swear I added less. But that was also around the time that I stopped driving it on a daily basis.

keck03

iTrader: (2)

I had to do a mazda reman because when my motor blew, I completely lost 4 apex seals and damaged the housings. I talked to a few rebuild shops and they all said they thought not much would be salvageable. I ordered a reman and had it sent to a place called JPR Imports. They did a street port and replaced the apex seals with RA super seals and replaced some other corner seals and springs for what they recommended for a turbo rx8. They have a good reputation so I trusted them. I do now HEAVILY premix since the RA seals are about as strong as you can get but can damage the housings. The motor wont last as long as a normal reman but I only drive it 2k miles a year now so thats fine. I just wanted it to handle boost better.

keck03

iTrader: (2)

Years ago, I talked to some SC owners at a deals gap meet. Silvrstreak used to track his SC 8 regularly and he told me the best thing he ever did was dremel smooth the inside of the intake path. When he opened up his, he noticed how rough the casting was so he just took a dremel to it and made it smooth. I know its not the TB but its still kinda related. I dont recall hearing anyone did a bigger TB.

obliterx8

iTrader: (3)

I definitely plan to smooth out the intake tract, I can post before/after pics when I get to it. It shouldn't be that hard, right?

I'll have to look at the TB when I remove it to see what seems right. At a minimum, I've seen some people countersink the screws for the plate into the little actuator bar so the screw heads don't block airflow at WOT - makes sense to me.

obliterx8

iTrader: (3)

OtherSyde, when you get that intake installed (or mocked up in place) please post a pic or two, I'd like to see how it all fits.