MOP Adjustments
08-14-2007, 08:14 PM
#130
Sure is puzzling. I am going to get a picture posted somehow. I dissected some pleats out of the filter(you have to saw the pump apart to get to it) and you could not even blow any air through it. In some of the other areas you could blow some. Of course I am not blowing 60lbs either!
Have yall seen a filter clogged by oil and grit before? Seriously, Just asking. This is really unmistakable. Now we may be getting dirty gas, we may be running low in the tank a bunch, we may be mixing the wrong way, but i am telling you guys ---no ****--something is going on.
I am keeping my extra pump now.
olddragger
Have yall seen a filter clogged by oil and grit before? Seriously, Just asking. This is really unmistakable. Now we may be getting dirty gas, we may be running low in the tank a bunch, we may be mixing the wrong way, but i am telling you guys ---no ****--something is going on.
I am keeping my extra pump now.
olddragger
08-15-2007, 08:09 PM
#132
you can get to the sock but you cannot get to the internal fuel filter without breaking it. it is glued together from the factory--it is a one piece item. The tub that has the filter in it I mean. You can take the pump out etc etc without breaking it but you cannot get to the fuel filter without breaking/sawing /melting or vaporizing the plastic housing. i double dog dare ya!
olddragger
olddragger
08-16-2007, 08:10 PM
#141
When you were a kid, you used to take the family radios and clocks apart with a butter knife, didn't you?
It comes apart the other way.
That filter isn't too bad at all. The color is not the issue. You should try a solvent pass test. I bet it is effectively open.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; 08-16-2007 at 08:13 PM.
08-16-2007, 08:24 PM
#142
Good thought and i tried and very little came through. But we have to remember the pressure the pump is providing. Holding the unfolded strips up to the light reveals ---no light comes through---period. the outside pleat face is also a darker color than the inside face. This filter has been sitting out x 3 days in 100 degree heat and is completly dry. if you manually rub the face--"dark matter" comes of. You cannot blow any air(by mouth) through most of the filter. This filter is mostly occluded.
the sock also is a very restrictive material--even when clean. Maybe is has to be?
One thing I think I have found out is that the sock is the only filter that precedes the pump. So if the assembly can be taken apart and reassembled, why cant we remove the oem and then install an aftermarket outside the tank? then this would not be an issue
olddragger
the sock also is a very restrictive material--even when clean. Maybe is has to be?
One thing I think I have found out is that the sock is the only filter that precedes the pump. So if the assembly can be taken apart and reassembled, why cant we remove the oem and then install an aftermarket outside the tank? then this would not be an issue
olddragger
08-16-2007, 08:54 PM
#144
oh the butter knife thing--close but actually i was adjusting points on cushman motor scooters with a nail file.
We did not have radio or tv--had to work on something and I damn sure didnt want to get the lawn mower running
I still dont get how you got the pump apart-you are going to have to do a diy sometime.
OD
We did not have radio or tv--had to work on something and I damn sure didnt want to get the lawn mower runningI still dont get how you got the pump apart-you are going to have to do a diy sometime.
OD
08-17-2007, 12:33 PM
#148
Rx-8 2004 Tit.Grey 6MT
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Does the pump sens oil to the 2 oil nozzles per housing at the same time ?
When I look at the oil lines on the metering pump, I see that not all lines are filled up with oil and that there is some air inside the line.
Is this expected to be normal ?
What can I do to check that there is no problem with the oil going into the engine ?
Can I use premix meanwhile to be sure the engine gets enough oil ?
Will the premix cause some damage to the catalic converter ?
Thanks in advance for your reply !
Kind regards
Ben
When I look at the oil lines on the metering pump, I see that not all lines are filled up with oil and that there is some air inside the line.
Is this expected to be normal ?
What can I do to check that there is no problem with the oil going into the engine ?
Can I use premix meanwhile to be sure the engine gets enough oil ?
Will the premix cause some damage to the catalic converter ?
Thanks in advance for your reply !
Kind regards
Ben
08-20-2007, 10:12 AM
#149
well 2nd opinion obtained on the fuel pump asembley I took apart and on the pre mix affecting the fuel filter theory (see premix thread) reveals per highly respected source that it is the pump causes the fuel starvation issues not a clogged filter. But pre mix probably affects early pump failure especially when you have "dirty gas". Details on the premix thread.
Got to give me credit for trying to find the root cause of this fuel starvation problem!
olddragger
Got to give me credit for trying to find the root cause of this fuel starvation problem!
olddragger
08-24-2007, 03:15 AM
#150
Registered
So here is what I intend to do once I get the pump:
Phase 1: Bring the pump into the passenger compartment and observe the behavior of the sector gear under different driving conditions. If I am satisfied that there is a good chance an adjustment of the stop screw and sensor will result in increased flow then
Phase 2: Make the adjustment. The sector gear should behave exactly the same but with a constant angular offset. If this is successful then
Phase 3: Determine how engine speed and sector gear position influence t wooil flow
Phase 1: Bring the pump into the passenger compartment and observe the behavior of the sector gear under different driving conditions. If I am satisfied that there is a good chance an adjustment of the stop screw and sensor will result in increased flow then
Phase 2: Make the adjustment. The sector gear should behave exactly the same but with a constant angular offset. If this is successful then
Phase 3: Determine how engine speed and sector gear position influence t wooil flow
General
Number of teeth on pinion gear: 16
Number of teeth on sector gear: 40
Degrees per step of stepping motor (pinion): 11.25 (1.5 times the original guessed value of 7.5)
Gear radius ratio (sector/pinion): 10 (actual best estimate 9.93)
Degrees per step for sector gear: 1.125
Mechanical Stop Thread size: 4-0.7 (4mm diameter, 0.7 mm pitch)
Equivalent steps for one turn of stop: 3
Total angular range of sensor: 19 degrees approximately.
Specific to the used MOP I acquired
Step number when sensor switch opens: 55
Steps before sector gear disengages from pinion: 72
Steps available before disengagement: 12 (assumes maximum steps commanded by PCM=60)
Number of turns of stop to cause disengagement: 4 (12/3)
Available range of sensor in counter-clockwise direction: 10.5 degrees approximately
Equivalent steps for this sensor range: 9.3 (10.5/1.125)
So it would appear that (but subject to further testing)
For this pump, the maximum number steps that can be introduced as a bias is 9, corresponding to three turns of the stop screw, and a complete counterclockwise rotation of the sensor. This might increase the steps to trigger the sensor switch by one (step 56) and it may throw a CEL. However from what appears to be known (OK if switch on between step 53 and 60) and what has been seen before, this is just a warning, and clearing it will cause the PCM to relearn the new position.
I made the rig shown in the picture using a cardboard box, freezer-wrap paper (writing on bottom of box still comes through) chopstick, sharpened nail, a couple of strong paper clips, and two SPDT switches. After wiring to the connector, I applied voltage and manually operated the switches to guide the current through the coils in the sequence needed to step the motor. The markings were put on after each step. The rig will be useful for observation in the vehicle, but I won't be able to get to that for a couple of weeks.
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